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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » Archive through June 14, 2018 » Time to show Big BIrd some love...maintenance questions « Previous Next »

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Ratbuell
Posted on Thursday, April 26, 2018 - 11:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, Big Bird (my 06 Uly) has been on the lift since...oh...October or so, waiting for me to get motivated to finish an oil change. Cold, ice, no real reason to finish...so there he sits.

Today I decided to dive in. I'm taking out the 9 primary and going back to my 12 gearing (I want my highway RPM back!). Out of red loctite so I'm waiting till tomorrow to button that back up, but everything is swapped over, just need to torque the nuts and reinstall the cover. Question though - are the clutch packs the same from 9 to 12, and the only difference is the gear on the rotor and the chain itself? I think I counted 57 teeth on each of my clutch packs but wanted to make sure. I kept the 12 clutches with the 12 rotor and the 9 clutches with the 9 rotor just to be safe.

While it's on the lift, I'm looking it over and saw I (finally) have a front rockerbox leak (at 35k miles). What's the best bet for changing that - drop the front mount and rotate the engine down some? Can't see squat through the top of the frame, and front mount is the way I'm leaning. Need to do plugs and wires as well so this may just be 2 birds, one job...
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Tootal
Posted on Friday, April 27, 2018 - 12:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ratbuell, when I swapped to the 9 gearing I didn't change the clutch, just the front sprocket and chain. I prefer the higher rpm's. Mine seems to run smoother there. Must be a different engine balance.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Friday, April 27, 2018 - 03:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, partial engine rotation is required to replace front rocker gasket. You can leave muffler in place and throttle cables connected, but you may have to disconnect fuel line at the engine. Might be a good idea to change the rear too since it’ll be accessible and you have to buy both gaskets anyway.

It’s a good time to insulate the inside if the frame, too.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Friday, April 27, 2018 - 09:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think I have gaskets laying on a shelf...I'll drop the front mount enough to get to it. If it was just black and fuzzy, I'd leave it...but it's shiny-wet.

For the gearing, I had the 9 primary in for this last oil change cycle. I miss my highway legs - there wasn't enough acceleration difference to make the shorter top end worthwhile for me. Reality is, I use the bike very little in the dirt and would rather have the factory gearing back, so I can use it the way I want on the highway.

Appreciate the confirmation that the clutch basket is the same - it was late and I was tired, and I was *pretty* sure I counted 57 on each one...
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Ratbuell
Posted on Friday, April 27, 2018 - 11:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So...red loctite 272 is what the manual calls for on the crank nut and the mainshaft nut. 450 degree rating.

All I can find is 271 - 300 degree rating, still "high strength" just not "high temp".

S'okay? Or will the extra 150 degrees cause issues and I need to dig deeper for the right loctite?
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Tootal
Posted on Saturday, April 28, 2018 - 10:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just went to Loctite's site and there is no 272 listed, just 271. I used the 271 and have had no problems for many miles. Using the updated torque spec. is more important. There's a thread here that includes that spec. if you don't have it. I'll look it up if need be.
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Jasonmcelroy
Posted on Saturday, April 28, 2018 - 11:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's my understanding that 272 is the oil-resistant version of 271 high strength and that 243 is the oil-resistant version of 242 medium strength.

This was the case the last time I bought a large bottle of each (10 years ago?)

Jason
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, April 29, 2018 - 09:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good call, I hadn't noted the updated spec in my manual yet. Looks like 240-260?

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/425775.html#POST1342143

I'll note it in my book. Whichever I used when I put in the 9 primary, worked fine. I paint-dot all my fasteners and they were still perfectly aligned when I cracked into the primary.

The new spec calls for 262 red....looks like a "medium" strength, compared to the 271 "high" strength? I'm just gonna toss the 271 on there; if it knocks in the future, I'll know. I'll note that in the book as well ; )
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Tootal
Posted on Sunday, April 29, 2018 - 12:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well the good news is I used 271 and the old torque specs. and it's still holding after all these years! I also didn't add oil for a couple of days after I did it allowing more than enough drying time. I have no idea if that made any difference, just putting it out there.
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Cyclone8u
Posted on Monday, April 30, 2018 - 05:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The mother of all Loctite threads for anyone that wants to kill some time and learn all things thread locker realated...

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/loctite.2650 16/
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Ratbuell
Posted on Tuesday, May 01, 2018 - 11:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well...sometimes they fight back.

Got the primary chainset installed just fine.

Installed the cover. Tensioned the chain. Filled with fresh fluid. Changed engine oil and filter. Started it up...primary chain sounds loose. No biggie, checked tension, it was loose alright. Hm, thought I did that right...no worries, reset it. Snugging the locknut down I saw the chain sag more. HUH??

Hmmm....

Do it again. And a third time. Same effect. Back the adjuster screw out as far as I can and....well, SHIT. Those are case threads pulling out.

Sigh.

Drain the FRESH fluid out, pull the cover off, swap it for a spare I had here. Get it installed. Go to install the clutch cable...I know I have to be gentle...I'm going slow...I get just about to where the hex part meets the case...and the threaded section snaps off in the primary cover.

FU*#(*^#*&$(@&$&(@&^RE^&@!!!!!!!!

Called it a night. Time for a beer.

Guess I'll cut the clutch cable end off and HOPE the sleeve threads back out of the primary housing.

Dammit.
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Etennuly
Posted on Wednesday, May 02, 2018 - 12:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Uh.....that sounds like a three beer evening. Damn.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, May 02, 2018 - 09:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So breathing...and sleeping...and mellowing out...I was thinking.

Has anyone done a thread-sert in the primary shoe adjuster hole? New covers are like $300 (ugh!), figured I could try an insert just to keep it as a spare...?

Clutch cable was entirely my fault. I was tired. I **KNEW** I shouldn't have left the cable routed to the handlebar. I know better. The cable should be out of the bike completely. But...I'm a and I tried to shortcut it.

Still aggravating.

Oh well. "Suffered" through riding the S2 to work this morning.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Wednesday, May 02, 2018 - 09:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How the hell does that even happen?
That adjuster stud is huge and there never needs to be much torque on it.
Machined badly since day #1 perhaps?
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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, May 02, 2018 - 10:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Either that or a hamfisted mechanic (...me...) probably used a Hercules torque spec on it once....bike's got a hair over 30k on it, I kinda expect aluminum threads to have a lifespan. It explains my notes on the whiteboard in the garage for Uly service:

"30k
oil leak
clutch noise?
neck bearings"

It looks like the thing was working loose during the last riding season, I heard the chain slap, but hadn't pinpointed the source yet. I would have missed it last night too, if I hadn't tightened the tensioner with the chain window open to see it droop again.
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Steveford
Posted on Wednesday, May 02, 2018 - 08:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I haven't tried that but I'd try to throw a cut down Helicoil in there if it were mine. I'm not sure if there's enough material to make sure it's down a full turn so it won't back out, though.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2018 - 07:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I always loctite my threadserts into the part and let them dry before inserting a fastener. Parts trashed anyway, I'll give it a shot. Once I get the damn bike back together with the spare, that is.
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