| Author | Message | ||
     Griffmeister |
Well, I got the wife's car fixed so now I can start on the Buell. I've seen that a few people here have removed their drive sprocket for one reason or another. I'm pretty sure none of them had the B-43982 holding tool with the B-45659 locking tool so my question is, how do you hold the sprocket to loosen the retaining nut? Haven't done this yet but I was going to attempt putting it in first, coming up on compression then holding the brake hoping the combined resistance would be enough. If anyone has an idea for a tool I'd like to hear about it. Thanks. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
I drilled to small holes on the nut then used an old flat screw driver to break the nut ( had a couple of spare nuts) | ||
| Hughlysses |
I made a tool out of a steel bracket (some kind of steel reinforcement bracket from the building supply store). It wasn't very well-made, and it didn't work that well. I did however finally get the nut loose using it. That nut is a mother to break loose. It's very narrow compared to its size, and the socket will easily slip off. Good luck with it. | ||
| Marc |
I recommend pontlee's approach as the only possible removal approach! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Anyone tried an impact tool? Might not even need to lock it. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I thought you weren't supposed to use the BBBBRRRT gun on driveline stuff. (Though I suppose they get a good 1203cc pounding under normal use....) I know you're not supposed to use it on the engine sprockets due to the alternator's magnets. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Reep, a guy that I work with does a lot of HD work on the side and he uses an impact. Of course all I have are "air" guns and no air at home where the bike is. I suppose I could try and borrow an electric from somebody. Didn't sound like a good idea to me but I guess if it works and you don't sit there hammering on it forever. Hugh, I was going to grind the edge of my socket flat to get as much contact as possible. Have to see if I have one made of "fine bone china" before I go grinding a Snap-On one. Did your home made tool work for tightening too? I still have to think about that when the time comes. How did it actually lock the sprocket? Did it bolt to those two little screws for the nut retainer? I know that Pontlee's approach won't work on installation.  | ||
| Froggy |
George, I got a decent size air compressor if you want to borrow it. Let me know, I can throw it in the truck and bring it to you tomorrow morning. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Looks like I logged off at the wrong time. Thanks for the offer Frank, it's still early in the project putting in a few minutes after work each day. Actually we have a 50lb propane tank converted to an air tank for moving trailers around. If I borrow that I might get a few whacks out of it, maybe enough to get the nut loose. I'll post up after I get to try it. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Impact-- air or electric, and remember --left handed threads.Think it is 1 7/16" socket--- | ||
| Hughlysses |
Hugh, I was going to grind the edge of my socket flat to get as much contact as possible. Have to see if I have one made of "fine bone china" before I go grinding a Snap-On one. Did your home made tool work for tightening too? I still have to think about that when the time comes. How did it actually lock the sprocket? Did it bolt to those two little screws for the nut retainer? I know that Pontlee's approach won't work on installation. It was basically a ~4" (?) length of 1/8" x 1" steel with a couple of holes in it. I installeed it on one of the studs for the idler pulley in front, then it was twisted 90 degrees so a flat end would wedge between two teeth on the transmission sprocket. It worked well enough for getting the nut off. I wound up replacing the engine and parting out the old one so I never had to use my widget for the re-tightening process. I'd imagine an impact wrench is a WHOLE lot easier anyway. If you're gonna grind on a socket, you can find cheap ones at Tractor Supply. I think I paid ~$13 or so for the one I used, and it held up fine, although using it with an impact wrench might be questionable. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I use impact on crank nuts all the time on dirt bikes. I know it can be hard on the magnets on the stator, but the other processes are really painful and destructive as well without the fancy tools (which seem different for every bike). And my impact wrench isn't that strong to begin with (I have too much hose). Once the nut is off I inspect the rotor to see if I broke a magnet loose. I don't use the impact to put them back on unless it's a dirt bike with a clutch that can't hold the necessary torque. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Well that nut was tight, thank you red Loctite. The air tank idea didn't work, only gave me a few seconds of full power then tapered off. Next choice, bring home the only electric gun in the shop, an old IR one inch drive monster. Guess I needed the monster, it still took a few seconds for the nut to move, then a few more seconds of slow turning until the Loctite finally gave up. What a relief, now I can get on with the removal process. |
