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Author Message   Timberwolf Posted on Monday, April 08, 2013 - 03:24 pm:        Just adjusted the primary chain on my Uly. As I rolled the bike around I found a lot of variation in chain slack. Some spots really loose, and a couple spots with almost no slack, so I loosened it up a little at the tight spots. Does this sound normal to those of you who have done this before? And why would the chain be tight at 12k miles? Wouldn't it naturally get looser with miles? I'm the second owner and bought it with less than 7k miles on it, so I doubt it had been adjusted before. Helpful input appreciated (smartass comments also welcome if I can use them on someone else in the future)   Ratbuell Posted on Monday, April 08, 2013 - 04:16 pm:        Normal to have tight spots. IIRC the manual says to set it at either the loosest or tightest spot...can't remember offhand which it is. The chains are hefty. Usually looseness is more from wear on the adjuster than it is from stretch. My guess if it was tight is either you were looking at the wrong end of the loose/tight suggestion from the book or it was maladjusted before you got it. Did you check it hot or cold?   Timberwolf Posted on Monday, April 08, 2013 - 04:37 pm:        Checked it cold. Unless I read the manual wrong, it said to find the tight spots and adjust from there. I don't think the manual said anything about measuring with engine hot or cold.   Ratman Posted on Monday, April 08, 2013 - 05:06 pm:        Per my 06 factory manual it says rotate and find the tightest spot in the chain. Cold spec is 3/8 to 1/2 and hot is 1/4 to 3/8 free play. To be checked on the top centered between the sprockets. Says the factory setting was 1/4 to 1/2 using "specialized equipment". The 1/4 setting is at the ABSOLUTE tightest spot.   Mark_weiss Posted on Monday, April 08, 2013 - 05:14 pm:        With any drive chain, tension should be checked at the tightest spot. Be sure to rotate the chain backward so that the slack is moved to the top, where the chain is checked, rather than at the bottom, where the tensioner shoe lies. Checking hot or cold differs only in the amount of slack that is spec'd. When hot, the shafts are farther apart so the smaller spec is used. If you can comfortably hold your bare finger on the chain, the engine is "cold", so use the larger spec.

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