| Author | Message | ||
     Steveford |
2006 Uly, 49,000 miles, factory race kit, starts fine, stumbles when hot, eventually dies, no fan. Cools off a bit, starts up okay, stumbles when temps get up, dies, no fan. However, if you can shut it off right after it stumbles but before it dies the fan works. I haven't been able to get the code(s) read yet. Sealing goop for the timer plate wires is tacky but not charred, ignition key switch seems to be getting a little erratic as well - sometimes you turn it to on and there will be a delay before the instrument cluster does it's self diagnostic. Any ideas? This has been getting progressively worse over the past 500 miles and the bike is now parked. | ||
| Etennuly |
The fan operates through the ECM by controlling it's grounding voltage. Make sure you have good connections at the battery and all grounds are good EVERYWHERE. There are reams on this topic under run/skip and running hot and fan not working. Long story, I ended up with a manual switch to operate mine. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
It's wired into his brain stem. | ||
| Stevem123 |
Sounds like you might have a bad head temp sensor. The stumbling sounds like maybe skip-spark mode. and then the quitting part would be sensing way too hot. I doubt the engine is actually getting that hot. | ||
| Hughlysses |
If it's skip spark mode, he should be getting a flashing check engine light. | ||
| Steveford |
The engine light will flash briefly when it does that skip spark but the fan won't come on once it dies shortly thereafter. I'll give the grounds a good check as this got progressively worse right after I removed the wiring for my heated gloves. I'm hoping for operator error. | ||
| Steveford |
It's not the grounds and it goes into skip spark withn 6 miles but with no flashing engine light. I'm pretty sure that the rear head sensor took a dump and is telling the ECM that the engine is about to melt. I REALLY don't want to give H-D any money at all so time to see if there's a cross reference. | ||
| Etennuly |
Try Al at american sport bike for the sensor. The special socket is easy to make. Take an old deep well socket and make a split up the side with a cutoff wheel for the wire to hang out of. Did you check for codes yet. A bad sensor will usually pop up there. Overheating and getting into run skip will not throw a code as it is a normal circumstance of being too hot. Did you put a star washer on your battery terminals in place of the wire ends that you took out? When you tighten the terminals then grab them with your fingers and try as hard as you can to turn them. If they move they are not tight enough. There was a problem with the battery bolts bottoming out just as they would tighten causing intermittent electrical problems. | ||
| Stevem123 |
Autozone carries some sensor sockets but I don't know what sizes they are. From my only experience of one bad sensor, it would give a cold reading. I guess they can fail either way. Maybe try unplugging the wire to see if theres a change in symptoms. Change of symptom proves the sensor. No change and I would look for other causes. Yes check the battery connections too. | ||
| Stevem123 |
Also check the sensor wire for chaffing against the rear rockerbox cover. That's been cause for several hair-pulling troubleshooters out there. | ||
| Steveford |
It looks like it's sensor time - there was some rubbing on the lead but that's not it and it won't start if you unplug the ET sensor. With the ET sensor unplugged the check engine light doesn't come on, either - it just cranks away but no spark (evidently). The battery connections are tight SO it looks like it's S1 time for another week or two. I did write Erik Buell Racing to see if they have a cross reference so we'll see. Thanks for your help. | ||
| Steveford |
No response from Erik Buell Racing regarding the ET sensor so I snagged one from eBay. I'll install it tomorrow night and see what happens - good things, I hope. |
