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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through November 10, 2007 » Uly Rear Wheel Removal « Previous Next »

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Ksc12c
Posted on Monday, October 29, 2007 - 10:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I need to replace the rear tire on my Uly. I have a couple of questions about removing the rear wheel.

1. The Service Manual refers to a Jacking lift point on the Muffler. Can I use a Scissors Jack to lift the rear Wheel?

2. The Manual also refers to a Rear Axle Adapter type tool. It's in the Tools section. Do I need that tools to remove the rear axle?

Thanks, Kevin
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Monday, October 29, 2007 - 10:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Many here have crafted a "cradle" from 2x4s to support the bike. You can use whatever jack you have as long as you are using the marked jack points. I don't know how it would fare if you only jacked one of the jack points up.

The Rear Axle Adapter is in the blue tool bag under your seat. It's a 7/8 inch double nut to allow you to put a socket on it.

Make sure not to forget to loosen the pinch bolts. Don't ask me how I know.

You also don't necessarily need to remove the idler pulley, but you will need to remove the lower belt guard.

Good luck.
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Ksc12c
Posted on Monday, October 29, 2007 - 10:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I never thought to look in the Tool bag!

Thanks for the info.

Kevin
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Monday, October 29, 2007 - 11:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Firmly secure your bike so it doesn't fall off once raised into the air. In the garage I tie the bike with rope to the garage door railings on the garage ceiling. Both sides of the handlebars and also both sides of the rear of the bike because the bike will rotate on the steering head bearings. If you think, duh!, then I'll tell you that there are photo's of bikes on BadWeb that fell off from great height because they were not tied off securely.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/269999.html#POST869632

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/150337.html
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Etennuly
Posted on Monday, October 29, 2007 - 11:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Odd.....I've never had to remove that belt guard.

The axle is tapered about an inch in and it allows the wheel enough room to remove and reinstall the belt without removing the idler.

Look back a ways in BBD about rear axles.....some antisieze is needed here also, and there is good info on regreasing the bearings.....it's worth reading.
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Lorazepam
Posted on Monday, October 29, 2007 - 05:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For sure check the bearings. Take a tiny screwdriver and gently pry the seal off the bearing, and give them a look.
If you use a floor jack, make sure it is a larger one, a small model will not be stable enough. If you buy a motorcycle jack, which I recommend, spend the extra money and get a good one. The chinese made ones at harbor freight and wal mart are crap for the most part. It is worth the extra money in the long run. I prefer a center stand, but we are out of luck on the Uly.
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Hoon
Posted on Monday, October 29, 2007 - 11:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I used my universal 'paddock stand'(fits the swinging arm) to remove the rear wheel,also didn't need to remove belt guard.

I was lucky that my axle wasn't siezed,I did have to stand on the extension bar to undo it though.
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Jlnance
Posted on Saturday, November 03, 2007 - 12:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You might find it worthwhile to break the axle loose before you jack up the bike. They can occasionally be a PITA to get loose, presumably when the last person to change the wheel ignored the torque specs and zipped it in with an air wrench.
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Iugradmark
Posted on Saturday, November 03, 2007 - 12:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hoon,

Which stand do you have and where did you buy it from?

Thanks,

Mark
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Adrian_8
Posted on Saturday, November 03, 2007 - 08:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I use my ATV lift and ratchet straps with soft ties to the the frame loops near the master cylinder and hook the tie-off points on the jack. No blocks just hit the arrows on the muffler.
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Hoon
Posted on Sunday, November 04, 2007 - 02:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Iugradmark,
I bought it years ago,it's just a budget,universal one.It works fine.

Sorry I can't give more details,if you do buy a universal one,just make sure the stands 'swingarm cradles' don't foul the sprocket 'cos the paint is very brittle on them.It flaked off the side of mine (not that it bothers me,I'm happy of anything that makes mine look rattier!)
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