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Ihavemanyfleas
| Posted on Sunday, February 04, 2007 - 05:10 pm: |
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A couple of days ago I came in from a ride, and may have inadvertently put too much oil in the Uly. I took it out this afternoon, drove it to the gas station, filled it up, and the engine light came on, and stayed on. I checked in the airbox, and it was a little oily. I drained the excess, and put everything back together, feeling like an idiot. First, could this be the reason my light stays on now, and what do I need to do to fix it. It's due for the 5k soon, but is there anything I can do in the mean time... or is it time to bring it to the dealer? Is this gonna be an expensive lesson? |
Davo
| Posted on Sunday, February 04, 2007 - 05:55 pm: |
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Check for codes without VDSTS. Do you have the procedure? It is not the oil level. (Message edited by davo on February 04, 2007) |
Davo
| Posted on Sunday, February 04, 2007 - 05:59 pm: |
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Just in case: In order to retrieve trouble codes w/o software: Get a short piece of 18 ga. wire about 12” long with two small insulated alligator clips. The manual uses part number 72191-94 (two of them) as end connectors instead of the alligator clips. Go to the data link connector that is located on the left side just under the edge of the seat. Remove the rubber insert. There are four pins inside. Looking at the connector with the locking hasp pointed down. The pin orientation is such that pin # 1 and pin #2 are both on your left. See below: #2 #3 #1 #4 lock With the key and ignition off, connect pin #1 and pin #2 with the home made jumper. Make sure you do not touch the other pins! Then turn the key and the ignition on. Do not start the bike. The engine light should start to flash: If it flashes many times (about 10 or 11, to fast to count for me) very fast, then there are NO trouble codes. Otherwise there will be 6 quick flashes at 3 per second and this is an intermission. Then there will be a 2 second pause Then count the number of one second flashes separated by 1 second pauses and this will be your first digit. Then there will be a 2 second pause Then count the number of one second flashes separated by 1 second pauses and this will be your second digit. Then there will be a 2 second pause Start back at intermission of 6 flashes…………..and so on…….. This will continue until you turn off the ignition and the key and remove the jumper. If you remove the jumper without turning off the ignition the engine light will continue to cycle trouble codes. If you have a trouble code and then you correct the problem that created the code. The bike will automatically clear the codes after 50 start and run sessions of at least 30 seconds or more. Until then the code will remain even if the problem is fixed. Trouble code list: 11-TPS 13- O2 sensor 14-ET (engine temp) 15-air intake temp 16-battery voltage 21-exhaust actuator 23-front injector 24-front coil 25-rear coil 32-rear injector 33-fuel pump 35-tach 36-fan 44-bank angle sensor 52, 53, 54, 55- ECM failure 56-cam sync. Failure Good luck. There is a more detailed account of this procedure in the shop manual. There is also flow charts to correct all of the fault conditions. This procedure has pulled codes that my VDSTS Pro USA did not pull. The VDSTS could clear them but it could not recognize all of them. I never leave home without my jumper wire, list of the codes, small box of fuses, electrical tape, and an extra relay. I hope this helps.! |
Ihavemanyfleas
| Posted on Sunday, February 04, 2007 - 06:00 pm: |
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Thanks Dave. (Message edited by ihavemanyfleas on February 04, 2007) |
Davo
| Posted on Sunday, February 04, 2007 - 06:01 pm: |
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It crossed your post, bad timing on my part. |
Davo
| Posted on Sunday, February 04, 2007 - 06:14 pm: |
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Your welcome. Since I don't bet on sports, I am going to go out on a limb and guess it is a code 21. If your horn and brake light doesn't work, the ECM will throw a 21 because the fuse has blown. If the fuse is ok then the actuator could have jambed up. Just a guess though. Don't worry if the bike is running ok then the fix will be easy. |
Ihavemanyfleas
| Posted on Sunday, February 04, 2007 - 06:18 pm: |
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No worries. The code coming back is 21: exhaust actuator. Horn and brae light is out. Seems like that's an easy enough fix! Thanks! (Message edited by ihavemanyfleas on February 04, 2007) |
Xbimmer
| Posted on Sunday, February 04, 2007 - 06:34 pm: |
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That was pretty cool, Davo! |
Davo
| Posted on Sunday, February 04, 2007 - 06:35 pm: |
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Its a fuse! 10 amp if I am not mistaken. |
Davo
| Posted on Sunday, February 04, 2007 - 06:45 pm: |
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Third from the front on the passenger side. It's a 10 I checked. |
Ihavemanyfleas
| Posted on Sunday, February 04, 2007 - 07:25 pm: |
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You're psychic on the fuse. I have to say, this is an awesome board for info. And an awesome bike... Thanks again. |
Davo
| Posted on Sunday, February 04, 2007 - 07:30 pm: |
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I am glad I could help out. The ULy's wiring harness and I are very close. |
Ihavemanyfleas
| Posted on Sunday, February 04, 2007 - 07:38 pm: |
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Is the engine light & diagnostic procedure an activity I need to look forward to now? I noticed a little bare spot on the green wire coming out of the computer box., I used a little tape to cover it... I've seen some posts about wiring losing the protective coating... Guess I need to keep an eye on it, and keep some extra fuses under the seat... |
Davo
| Posted on Sunday, February 04, 2007 - 07:47 pm: |
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"Eternal vigilance is the price of freedom".... Thomas Jefferson.....and now relevant to Davo vs. the wiring harness. Just funnin.......the adventure continues. |
Tdiddy
| Posted on Sunday, February 04, 2007 - 09:48 pm: |
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I've blown 2 horn, exhaust and break light fuses in the last 6 months. I found the cable to the muffler a little dry. Some lube and 1500 miles later no problems. I did notice the motor was stronger when the exhaust valve was working. |
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