| Author | Message | ||
     Sparky |
Darn, darn, darn! Took the S3 on the SoCal Hog Rally Poker Run with my wife last Sat and half way thru the run I started feeling a rough metal on metal grinding sensation on right hand curves. Turns out to be a right isolator just beginning to tear as confirmed by Mickey at Ventura HD/B. This will somewhat put a damper on my trip to Laguna Seca as he advises that I can still ride the bike but not as "agressively" as I normally would. Oh well, it's better to ride the twisties at 35 mph than not at all. Perhaps a contributor to its demise was that I didn't have the wrenches to adjust the shock preload and, as a result, the drive belt was probably a little too tight for the load. Before the grinding started, I could feel a muted vibration when hitting dips. The frequency of the vibration I'm guessing was from the belt engaging the pulleys' grooves with too much belt tension when the s/a & pulley c/l's lined up. Normally I don't feel this riding solo but I did this time 2 up. I measured about 2" free play in the belt with the rear wheel fully extended. Is this ballpark? I can see where too much belt tension would cause output shaft/wheel bearing problems, but would it affect isolators too? Sparky 96S1, 98S3 | ||
| Blake |
Sparky: Can't your dealer replace/upgrade your isolators before laguna Seca? Shreveport did mine in just a few hours while they tackled the new rear shock and muffler mount. Shreveport asked, and Buell customer service aproved the isolator upgrade as a no charge goodwill operation. Note: have them lube the swingarm bearnings and replace the seals while they are at it. | ||
| Madirish |
Hey all, newbie here quick ? I have a 97 S3,preload called for is 16.9-17.2 ( My weight only ). Problem is when I and the wife ride together (Combined weight 330# ) The belt is basically solid and I can feel it tighten . I have adjusted per http://www.americanthunderbike.com/pages/tech_tips.html and have a belt that has ~ 2" of free play. Is this cool or should I adjust preload with both of us on the bike . Of course if I do that the preload will be a lot less with just me Thanks | ||
| Dark_Ninja |
Hola, oh mighty guru's of Buelldom! I have the new '01 shock on my 98 S3T, but I have question, nobody seems to be able to tell me exactly HOW to adjust the pre-load on it. I know WHERE to set it (max, I'm a fatboy!) he he he, but I don't know how. Anyone wanna clue me in? I'm curious to see what the response is to Madirish too, I've got the same problem. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Dark, Hustle on down to Home Depot and get one of the Rigid (brand name) smooth face plumbing wrenches (around $25.00). They kind of look like a pipe wrench but angled and smooth faced. Set up more for large nuts than rather than pipe. Lots cheaper and easier to find than the LARGE single wrench needed for the jam nut. All ya do is loosen the rear jam nut then either using the wrench or your hand, screw the spring "can" looser or tighter as needed to set preload. Increase preload by screwing toward rear wheel, decrease by unscrewing toward front wheel. Don't forget to tighten the jamnut when you are done, they have been know to loosen up while riding. BTW, the wrench also works for rear axel nuts with no slipage. If I remember, I will post a pic of the wrench this evening. Brad | ||
| Mikej |
Brad, Is this a different wrench that the inexpensive cast adjustable slip-nut wrench like I have? My local dealership has two sizes of wrenches from ASB hanging on a Buell display rack, not sure of prices though. D-N, Are you talking about the raw pre-load setting for weight, or adjusting for the dampening/rebound settings? People get those confused. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Mike, Yes, this is a different wrench. I tried one like you had, my jamnut must have been tighter,,the bugger broke on the first use! I returned it and bought the Rigid. The ASB versions are nice, not sure what sizes Tat has now. If you can't move the "can" with your hand, you will need 2 wrenches as they are different sizes. I'll post a pic of the wrench,, Promise! Brad | ||
| Tripper |
Darkey; The service bulletin is at the top of this page. The preocess is simple. Sit on the bike with all your ample weight on it. Have a friend measure between the center of the front & rear shock eyes. It should measure between 15.2 to 15.5 inches. Now, would someone tell me what the eye-to-eye measurement of the first recall Showa on an S1 is? It was in an issue of Fuell a couple months back. (the service bulletin has a typo) | ||
| Cyclonerider |
anyone have a diagraham of the rear swing arm, I will be replacing the irolators on my 99 M2. | ||
| Rall |
Tripper Early Showa S1/S1W/M2 Models: 17 to 17.4 inches S2/S2T Models: 16.9 to 17.2 inches S3/S3T Models: 16.9 to 17.2 inches X1 Models: 17 to 17.4 inches Current Showa M2 Low 2001 Models: 15.6 to 15.9 inches All Other Models: 15.2 to 15.5 inches Specs from Fuell Vol 1.3 May/June 2001 Mark R | ||
| Tripper |
Thanx Rally! | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Sorry folks, No wrench pics yet. Battery problem with my camara last night. I'm taking care of it today. Pics will be up this evening. Brad | ||
| Bluzm2 |
OK Folks, As promised, here's the pics of the wonder wrench! As the thing is a bit odd looking, I took one open and one closed. It's tough to read in the pic but the model stamped on the handle, it says Ridgid E-110 Brad   | ||
| Dark_Ninja |
Bluzm2, I got one, it works. 24.98 at Home Depot and it does the trick...mine is a slightly more orangy color though. Also Home Depot doesn't put them in the TOOLS section, they are over with the plumbing supplies. Now, next question. I have ordered the race springs since my fat ass causes the front end to dive more than I would like, but is putting these things in gonna be a major job? I've never had a set of motorcycle forks apart before, anything I should know in advance? Thanks for helping this newbiew motorcycle wrench, any info appreciated. | ||
| Buellzebub |
thanks dark ninja i knew i saw them somewhere around here | ||
| Buellzebub |
dumb question: when the rear shock is fully extended what is the clearance between the fender and the bottom of the rear subframe on a s1 [center of rear axle to bottom of subframe distance if possible]? i have an idea for relocating my licence plate, i want to put it under the tailsection about 1 foot in and am not sure if there is enough clearance. or possibly install it directly behind the oilbag [with a light]. i'm still checking to see if it would be legal. | ||
| Blake |
DN: I think the springs just pop out when you unscrew the tap caps, don't they? Be sure to support front end, it'll drop when the springs some out. I wonder if you could replace one at a time without having to support the front end? Where's Cap and Andy when you need 'em!  | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Dark, Sorry about the plumbing department thing. I forgot to add that. Truth is, I kind of stumbled on the wrench about 2 min before closing one night. I was picking up a LARGE fan for the garage and just happened to look up at the right time and saw the wrench. I stopped so quick my son walked right into me and dropped his pop! Mine is more orange also, I didn't do a color balance on the camara when I took the shots. The gray carpet throws of the white balance circuit on the cam. Works pretty slick huh? Brad | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Dark, I've never had the forks on my M2 apart yet either. Probably not much differnt than any other fork. If you want, I can scan the pages from the service manual and send them to you. Or, you could look it up in yours,,, you do have a service manual right? Right?  Brad | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Blake, The tops should screw out. Be careful when you get down to the end of the threads, keep pressure on the cap until ALL of the way unscrewed. The spring pressure can pop off the last few threads on the cap as they are alum. Depending on how much spring preload, they can fly a bit also. Could also be a snap ring. Guess I better check the manual myself! Actually, I have been thinking of a spring change myself. I'm not porky, just vertically challenged for my weight! Brad | ||
| Dark_Ninja |
Bluzm2, Yup...I have the service manual, for what it's worth. I've already found places it didn't jive with what was on the bike. Usually do to the previous owner changing things over, but still. In any case the manual doesn't always have the easiest procedure, nor does it always let you know of any 'gotchas' such as funny sized wrenches needed, or small clearance bolts. (A la rear isolators). Which is another project about to happen. (garrr, be sure to adjust the preload before riding 2 up me mateys! ;)) Mmmm, with your comment about the caps flying off the thought comes to mind that I should unload the forks as much as possible. See, already stuff that ain't in the manual! | ||
| Buelliedan |
Help!! I bought 2 sets of new fork springs in the nice 1.0kg variety hoping Cap would be able to show up at the Colorado fest and help me install them. Unfortunately his new job prevented him from showing and we live very far apart. Does anybody else here have experience changing fork springs that might be able to guide me through this online? I have the service manual and it scared me reading about the spring compressor part of the job. Thanks for any assistance Dan | ||
| Dave |
I had a few posts with pictures if they are still in the archives. Cap assisted me via phone and it's really a pretty straight forward job. Drop me a note if you have any questions or if ya wanna set up a time to talk through it. :-) DAve | ||
| Gozfst |
Lowering Kit? A while back (a year or so) I saw an official Buell part to lower the Buells, now that I'm looking for one none of the dealers know what I'm talking about. I have a 97 S1 any body have any clues? I know there used to be one by Force, I think and I tried it but it was recalled. Thanks In Advance Bob Stubbs | ||
| Buelliedan |
Bob, The only lowering kit I have ever seen is made by West Tek. Tat sells them at American sport Bike. I have never seen a lowering kit offered by Buell only the M2 low. But I don't think you want to buy a whole bike just for the kit do you Dan | ||
| Witchburner |
I have a recall on my -99 M2 and its labelled: Buell Code 820 It has something to do with the rear damper, I think they will mount some kind of reinforcement kit to the damper, but I'm not sure. I've seen pictures on the net on dampers with some kind of conical shaped "shell", mounted with a clamp to the rear end of the damper... Does anyone know if this is the 820 kit... if it is, why the heck dont they provide me with a new shock... It looks really awful so I was thinking of replacing the damper (in time) to one with a visible coil (looks much nicer) will this interfear with the bikes performance? Thanks/ WB | ||
| Leeaw |
Witchburner, There is already a goodwill replacement for the recall you are referring to. I now have the new 2001 shock instead of the retention piece. Ask your dealer to contact BMC for free replacement and don't take no for an answer! | ||
| Aaron |
Read B-038, the link is at the top of this page, titled "Rear Shock Recall, 99-00 (Service Bulletin). | ||
| Dark_Ninja |
Okay, I've got the race springs for the front forks in my possession now. However, I can't find a specification telling me how much or what type of oil to add. The HD shops says use 5W spectro, but my local dealer doesn't have any. The HD shop also can't figure how much to put in (usually they probably could, but it's Sturgis week and they are *busy*) So, does anyone know or care to hazard a guess on those two questions? | ||
| Dave |
I don't have the specs in front of me but I used the recommended fork oil weight and amount. I decided it wasn't time to experiment with weight changes and oil volume. DAve |
