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Erics1
| Posted on Thursday, November 26, 2020 - 03:09 pm: |
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I just bought my 6th Buell, and was thinking what a great deal I got on a great bike, until today. It’s an ’06 XB12Ss, with a Drummer exhaust, and supposedly the Race ECU. I’d taken a few rides previously, totalling over 100 miles, and all felt just fine. The guy I bought it from said he had had some stumbling issues with the fueling, until the bike got fully up to temperature, and that is similar to what I experience on my ’03 S3T with the Buell “Race Only” exhaust (haven’t looked at the ECU on the S3T). But once the S3T has been run for 5 or so minutes, it’s just fine. The guy knows Drummer, whose shop is nearby, and said they had leaned out the fueling some to correct the problem, and that he had not again experienced it in the few times he’d ridden since. On the ‘new’ XB12Ss I experienced no remarkable fueling issues, even after being started up cold. But today, about halfway thru my hour long ride, everything abruptly went to hell. It started backfiring, stumbling, bogging ands even stalling. I stopped shortly thereafter and refilled with what I’ve been using---93 octane non-ethanol fuel, and then grimly turned homeward. Wasn’t sure if I was going to make it. It would run fine for a few moments, and then POW, POW, Stumble, Stall and backfire one last time. Good thing the battery had a good charge, because after it stalled I’d pull in the clutch and thumb the starter, and it would fire right back up. And be OK for another few moments, and then repeat. I poured a half bottle of Techron into the mostly full tank as soon as I was back in the garage, but I kinda doubt that is the issue. The cut-offs are so dramatically abrupt that I’m thinking maybe it’s electrical? After it cools down a bit I’ll pull the plugs and run them through the cleaner, and look for any loose connections or grounds. I’m really hoping this is a known issue with a probable resolution? |
Akbuell
| Posted on Thursday, November 26, 2020 - 03:56 pm: |
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After checking the battery cables for tightness, see if it starts/runs cleanly after it cools down. If so, I would look at things like a wonky engine temp sensor. And yeah, I would be on the electrical problem search. Loose or failing ignition relay, loose fuse, ect, ect. Especially difficult if you have no trouble codes. |
Erics1
| Posted on Thursday, November 26, 2020 - 05:47 pm: |
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Battery terminals look good and tight, though I did just hook up a battery tender connection there a couple days ago. I'll look there again, maybe disconnect the Battery Tender cable. I pulled the airbox off just to do a little preliminary looking around, and fired the puppy back up. It idled just fine, but I did notice that the Neutral light on the dash was sporadically going on and off. That made me first think “an idiot switch somewhere is flakey”, followed by “or maybe a connector to the instrument panel is not seated properly, or defective”. Hmmm… |
Akbuell
| Posted on Friday, November 27, 2020 - 09:07 am: |
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Ah, good find re the neutral light. Definite clue. I find it useful to think of electrical problems as power in - power out. The electricity has to get to a unit then back to ground. So in addition to loose connectors, pay close attention to grounds and ground wires. As an aside, start the engine and turn the handlebars back and forth and wiggle the harness between the forks and frame. Also try wiggling the ignition key. May give some hints. Hope this helps, Dave |
Erics1
| Posted on Saturday, November 28, 2020 - 02:39 pm: |
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I removed the 'new' old battery tender cable I'd hooked, removed the airbox and the flyscreen, and separated every electrical connection I found, including relays, sprayed with electrical cleaner and reassembled. Nothing appeared dirty or loose or corroded. Took another ride, and it started off OK, though the fueling might be a little less smooth than previously. I did not experience the extreme backfires and complete shut-downs that I did previously, but I did notice that the red engine malfunction light came on (I don't remember that from before). Also, the neutral light still tends to go off after a few moments, and maybe come back on. If I stop the bike, power off and back on, the malfunction light goes off, for a little while. Then I noticed I'd feel a slight stumble, and the light would come back on immediately. Then it seems to be running 'OK' again, if not as smoothly as it should. Not sure what to do now, other than start replacing electrical components? |
Erics1
| Posted on Saturday, November 28, 2020 - 04:06 pm: |
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I just ordered a Buell/ecmspy ODB cable, and will try using that software to see if I can see any error codes |
Erics1
| Posted on Saturday, November 28, 2020 - 07:43 pm: |
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Akbuell: is there a reason you mentioned the temp sensor? Issues do seem to be more noticeable when the bike gets hot |
Akbuell
| Posted on Sunday, November 29, 2020 - 08:30 am: |
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I had an engine temp sensor go bad, or out of calibration, on my X-1 (Same father, different mother to your XB). Same symptoms, though I don't remember it actually stalling. Check Engine Light on. Managed to get home, and an ECMSpy check revealed a list of several fault codes. And the symptoms came on all at once. I believe it was Al at American Sport Bike that suggested the engine temp sensor as the culprit, and he was right. Hope this helps, Dave |
Erics1
| Posted on Sunday, November 29, 2020 - 11:32 am: |
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Thx. I'm anxious to see what ECMSpy tells me |
Erics1
| Posted on Sunday, November 29, 2020 - 01:11 pm: |
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Was it much of a pain to get to the sensor? |
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