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Clk92vette
| Posted on Monday, August 17, 2015 - 01:48 pm: |
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The day before I was getting ready to take my wheels off to put on my new Dunlop Q3's I just happened to glance at my rear wheel and noticed that the drive side bearing cage was sticking through the area previously containing the seal. So I ordered a set of front and rear bearings along with the spacers from American Sport Bike. When the packaged arrived, three days before my trip to ride the Ohio Dragon, everything was there except for the rear bearings! It was just an oversight by American Sport Bike, and they didn't charge me for them, but I still needed them. So I called up Akron Bearing and cross-referenced a Nachi replacement. They recommended the Nachi's as a higher quality to the SKF's. The price was right in line with American Sport Bike's for the OEM's. I took my wheel to a local machine shop/auto parts store that I know well. The rotor side bearing pulled with relative ease, the damaged drive side required cutting out the inner race and then heating and quenching to get it out. I cleaned the seats up with silicone spray & Scotchbrite followed with crocus cloth. I tapped both bearings in carefully and had no issues getting them installed. I will be curious to see how many miles these last, if the ones I replaced were the original OEM's then they had about 10k miles on them. |
Sprintst
| Posted on Monday, August 17, 2015 - 01:56 pm: |
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So........what's the part number? |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, August 17, 2015 - 02:52 pm: |
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FWIW, Al posted a nice writeup for removing those bearings by welding a washer to them. That would be another approach. |
Sprintst
| Posted on Monday, August 17, 2015 - 08:50 pm: |
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Welding? Lol. If I had to buy a welder, I'd just buy bearing remover! (assuming this was to avoid that? or was it for a stuck on that a bearing extractor can't get??_) |
Nobuell
| Posted on Tuesday, August 18, 2015 - 08:55 pm: |
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Tapping bearings in could be an issue if both the inner and outer races are pressed at the same time. The bearings should be pressed in with a proper tool. The Nachi bearing are high quality. I have been using them for quit awhile. |
Clk92vette
| Posted on Wednesday, August 19, 2015 - 10:10 am: |
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I simply tapped the outer race while constantly rotating the wheel and it worked like a charm. I never had to strike the bearing with significant force and this allowed me to insure that I stopped driving the second side in after it just made contact with the spacer. How do you do that if you are pressing them in? |
Afhans
| Posted on Saturday, August 22, 2015 - 04:34 pm: |
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So... I just pulled my rear bearing the found the drive side has split in two. I also found the wheel bore to be tore up (roached). Do I do what you did or do I replace this POS w/a new $380 2010 wheel? Thoughts? Pic to be posted soon. (Message edited by Afhans on August 22, 2015) |
Nobuell
| Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2015 - 07:50 am: |
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It depends on how bad the bore is tore up. You could get away with using loctit bearing mount. You could have a machine shop sleeve the bore or go with 2010 wheel. I personally would not ride very far on the two bearing wheel. All of my road bells have the three bearing design wheels. I have a black 2010 rear wheel for sale. It has the spacers and axle for an 1125r. |
Sprintst
| Posted on Monday, August 24, 2015 - 09:10 pm: |
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More than $310 to upgrade to the 3 bearing wheel - need bearings, installed, axle kit, sprocket mounting bolts.... |
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