| Author | Message | ||
     Slodog |
anyone run into problems with the stock petcock? i heard they flow very poorly. is a pingel needed on a hot motor, or at least a hotter motor than stock? | ||
| Richieg150 |
I bought a Thunderslide kit for my 2000 M2,took it to be dynoed and went back to the suggestion on here.The bike runns great.the dyno says im at 80 HP.I notice a slight hesitation when i go full throttle,from idle, that i didnt seem to have with the Thunderslide.I havent drilled out my stock slide,I was going to try to just replace my stock slide with the plastic Thunderslide and the thunderslide spring.Does this idea sound like it may work,should I use the stock spring instead of the thunderslide spring?Has anybody else tried this?Thanks for any help! | ||
| Bostonbuell |
hey guys /gals,my question is can i jet my 2000 m2 by myself , i have never jetted a carb before do have to drill any thing? my mods are a race ignition,k&n filter,two bros muff.....i want to go with the stage one dyno kit i guess ........ 45 slow jet 195 main,....is my main a200 stock? should i leave that alone? my bike is popping thru the muffler when i get off throttle but its running good when i get on it....thanx | ||
| Ccryder |
Hey X-1 Buelligans, what kind of fuel mileage do you all get out of tank of gas? Lately with it filled to the rubber lip (I know I can't read that dam sticker) I get ~190 miles prior to the low fuel light. If I fill it to the lip, it's just under 4 gallons. My mileage has steadyly been improving. I'm now at 10k miles in a little over 9 months. Just color me curious. Neil S. | ||
| Airborne |
190 miles to the tank is about right. Just don't let that fuel light stay on for to long before you fill it up again. There is close to two shot glasses worth of fuel left when that light comes on. I'm not sure about the injectors on the bike but for another vehicle I own the injectors are a real pain in the a$$ to prime once they go dry. Oh yeah, be careful about going past the rubber lip. The breather valve for the tank isn't the best in the world and any fuel over the lip will most likely be wasted out the breather tube. | ||
| Blake |
Follow the instructions at the top of this page. More detailed version can be found in the ATC tech tips. | ||
| Ccryder |
Airborne: I have run 15 miles after the fuel light comes completely on. I'm afraid to run it till it coughs, even with a little spare can. Neil S. | ||
| Airborne |
Ccryder: You are braver than I. I always pulled into a gas station at the first glimmer of yellow from the dash. Usally around 190 miles. I too noticed that the motor got better mileage as it broke in but the fuel economy reached a peak at 10,000 miles and stayed there. Just a question for this subject matter. I've looked all over the service manual to see what operates the fuel light. I can't find weather the light operates from a fuel level switch in the tank or from a low fuel pressure sensor on the fuel pump. Anybody out there know. | ||
| Fastback69 |
I got my M2 dynoed this Sat. It pulled 74hp and 72lb/ft of torque in a 4th gear roll on. I've rejetted the carb (45 slow/195 main), put on a Wileyco pipe, and advanced the timing 1.5 degrees. I tried retarding the timing but it ran like crap. It was about 80 - ish degrees with 70-80% humidity which the bike doesn't like. Cap says that we should be able to get it up to 80hp and about 85lb./ft. After talking with him and AndyS, I have no doubt that he can do it. I'll post my charts when I get them scanned. | ||
| Bostonbuell |
hey phil(m2) isn't that low on the hp at 74 stocker is at like 91 right? anyways how did you get your seat screw fixed....does your cyclone eat oil?.... | ||
| Blake |
isn't there a special page for dyno charts   | ||
| Simond |
Neil, On a 2000 X1 with White Bros E-Series and no other mods, I have been getting 145-150miles from the bottom of the rubber neck to the first glimmer of the low fuel light. Since putting the original silencer back on a few weeks ago this has dropped to 135-140miles per tank. I put this down to the extra revs required to get anywhere at a reasonable rate. I'm not particularly hard on the bike (honest!) and these numbers have been pretty consistent over the last 8,000 miles. Anybody else have some comparable figures - the bike doesn't feel like it is running that rich! NB. This is a UK bike running the stock ECM and air filter. In case there is a different tank volume/sender unit in the Euro bikes, I work this out in the range 38-42mpg. Simon | ||
| Robr |
Airborn, there is a small fuel lever sensor that sits alongside the fuel pump. If you look at some of the fuel pump pictures in the service manual you will see it. Robr | ||
| Fastback69 |
I'll post it there, too. | ||
| Lsr_Bbs |
I average low 50's mpg w/ my carb conversion...so around 180-190miles. The fuel pump has an integral low fuel sensor...basically when the level drops low enough (there's a small switch) that triggers the light (which I still use on my bike). Neil Garretson X0.5 | ||
| Lake_Bueller |
My '98 S3T is averaging mid 50's. I keep thinking that can't be right but it hasn't changed after 10K. It also doesn't seem to matter it it's city or highway driving. No fuel light on the '98's. Need to remember to set the odometer though (oops only once) Mennis | ||
| Sportyeric |
Blake seems almost a god in his knowledge but I have to suggest some modifications to the CV carb procedure. First, to clarify, drilling out the idle screw plug isn't as scary as it sounds. The screw head is quite a bit behind the little tin sealing plate. Drill a small hole then run a small sheet metal screw into it then yank it out. After you've backed it off the prescribed 2 1/2 turns, put a dab of silicon sealant over the hole in case the screw backs itself out. At least that way it'll still be there for a roadside repair. I've never actually seen that happen but it was recommended and brings piece of mind. I tried the sportster needle but couldn't shake a stutter until I put in a Yost Master Kit. It comes with an adjustable needle, as does the Dynajet kit, I think. 55mpg with S1 heads and cams, Vance and Hines,etc. If you find your fuel economy going up as you add hotrod parts, you're burning leaner and leaner and they are sold lean to begin with to pass EPA, so be careful. Better too rich than too lean. | ||
| Sportyeric |
Bostonbuell. The popping you mention means you should do the idle screw. That's the circuit in use when the throttle is closed or just off idle. If you've already got a 200, I wouldn't think that you should go any smaller on the main. You've already made airflow improvements with the filter and pipe. Now you need more fuel to match. The main jet is in effect at WFO. To check main jetting, hold the throttle WFO (on the highway) long enough to clear any effects from the accelerater pump, then close it 1/8 ( on the highway). The partial closure of the butterfly valve reduces airflow while the fuel supply change takes longer to go into effect. If your speed momentarily increases, you're too lean, and the throttle cut has momentarily produced an optimum mix. If your speed decreases, you've created an exessively rich mix because you are already too rich. If your speed decreases only a bit, your jetting is fine. This is what I've read elsewhere. Mine seems happy with my first guess (185) so I don't know how subtle the effect is. It's a good excuse for wailing on the throttle from time to time though. " Sorry, officer, I was just doing a jetting test!" Hope I'm not being a pest with all this blather from a semi-Buell. A Buell-specific issue: my S1-riding buddy had huge problems getting the Pingel petcock to seal. Almost wrecked his tank and ended up, I think, fabricating his own mounting bracket to make it work. | ||
| Blake |
Eric! Court (God of Patches) will be all over you for that one! If anything, I'd be the "God" of plageurism and other people's hard work. You can thank Jay Hawley of American Thunderbike Club for the detailed carb info, and thank Don Casto for putting a condensed version of it on this page. Thanks for the diefication, however misplaced. Actually we've had some true dieties on this board... Cecil, Demon of Buell Problems: When your Buell has a problem you must immediately appease the demon Cecil by stating publicly that "the Kwak ZX9R is the best Sportbike on the road today." Failure to do so will result in your heads losing 0.200", and the hair will disappear from your dangling parts. Court, God of Patches: Insult the sensitivities of this diety or his associates (known as "Elves") and you must immediatley appease him or suffer continued chastisement. Luckily appeasement usually only requires procurement of a few patches. Aaron, God of the Dyno: A benevolent god, searching for the elusive optimum state of tune. Can be seen periodically governing the salt flats of Bonneville. Rocket, God of Carbon Fibre: Following the example of this stoutish diety will have you upgrading your Buell with high zoot CF parts. This diety demands adherance to the basic design tenents of Erik Buell and in pursuit of improved performance (HP/weight), trades pounds of currency for CF parts. more to follow later. | ||
| Richieg150 |
Does anybody have or know where I can get a washer .01 to shim my needle?Have tried some R/C stores and they say they dont have anything that small.If you have a washer,I will gladly pay the freight and cost of the washer!I want to install my new needle,with the washer,unless I dont need it?But I am going by the jetting tips from this site!E-MAIL me and I can call you or send you my address,and the cash for the washer! | ||
| Chuck |
Richie, you know those little screw kits used to mount connectors on the backs of computers? They include washers that I think will work nicely; though I'm not certain of their exact thickness. They should get you close to perfect. | ||
| Tommyboy |
i am looking into replacing the air filter/bread-box on my 01 x1. i'm running a kooks header/muffler, race only ecm and upgraded 02 sensor. the bike run great, but i really hate the bread box. it seems like its held together by faith and a little luck. do i have any replacement air cleaner options that do not require the addition of a power commander? regards, tom | ||
| Blake |
Tommyboy: Force makes one that is pre-configured to accept the DDFI air temp sensor. This nice pic of one is posted in the : Knowledge Vault: Engine - Breathers: Archive through May 10, 2001  | ||
| Bigfanof6 |
Okay, guys and gals, I need a little advice. I just installed the Force Sidewinder on my M2, along with the Daytona Boss. I went riding with a buddy of mine, and while I was out, I stopped and picked up the "normal" jets and needle from the H-D dealer to fatten up the carb. While riding, I noticed the following... One, the bike ran great. Two, the K&N filter on the breather strapped to the frame tubes ain't gonna cut it. Too much Pukage. After the ride, I noticed my headers were VERY blue. Plug check said "lean". So I pulled the carb apart and installed the new peices. My first question is this. The stock needle, which I believe is marked NOK, is shorter than the new one (N65C) Wouldn't a longer needle make it run leaner instead of richer? Question two. The main jet I pulled out was already a 195. Is this maybe something they did on the 01's? What jet # have other people been pulling out of the stock CV-40? Question three. Now that my pipes are a lovely shade of Blue, is there any other way to check for a too lean condition, without pulling the plugs? Should I replace the plugs with every jet change so they can be read properly. Thanks for any help you guys can give me. It's been quite some time since I played with my jets. Chris | ||
| Blake |
Chris: Not sure if blue pipes really indicate lean. I think that's a well propagated myth. In any case... My stock needle is labeled "NOKK." The critical geometric parameter is needle diameter versus distance from the needle's head (it's profile). A recommended practice is to shim the N65C needle by 0.01" thus effectively shortening it. Note however, that the lean problems on stock Buells manifest primarily for low and mid speed and the tip of the needle is affecting mixture at high speed. Lean test?: Run WOT at fairly high speed and roll off throttle 1/8th. If bike accelerates noticeably harder as you roll off throttle, you are lean. Pinging also indicates lean. Stock main jets are usually okay if not a bit rich. You might have luck trying a 190. Did you back off the idle mixture screw 2.5 turns and drill/enlarge the slide air bleed hole to 0.11" (7/64")? See you out there, Blake | ||
| Sportyeric |
Bigfan. The thing to remember about the carbs is that there are three different circuits. The main jet affects mostly WFO. The needle is mid-throttle and the air adjust screw is for up to 1/4 throttle.You can be rich on one and lean on the other. Check Blake's instructions at the top for air screw adjusts. Your idle speed should peak at around 2 1/2 turns out and decrease if you turn it either direction from that. Wear gloves! Its the thickness of the needle that's the determining factor mid-throttle. The needle length will determine when the needle is no longer a factor and you are just running on full main jet. See my posting of July 3rd. Davet has put a puke catch can strapped to the frame where the breather air goes in, flows around in a 10 oz. can, then exits to the filter. Gives the oil a chance to settle out. Looks very trick. The can he used is a stainless steel soap dispenser from Canadian Tire. Hope I didn't spill all your customizing secrets,Dave. | ||
| Bigfanof6 |
Thanks, guys. Seems I have some more work to do. Where is this cap you need to drill out? Facing the bike, carb side, is it front or rear? Which hole in the slide is the air blled hole? I think I remember two or three holes in there. Thanks again. Chris | ||
| Aaron |
Chris: The cap is underneath, very near where the carb meets the manifold. Pull up when the drill bit breaks through, there's a screw under there. I'm going to slightly disagree with some of my friends above, but hey, that's kind of the way it is with things mechanical, ask 10 people and get 11 opinions. First, I've found that the CV circuits tend to be rpm sensitive, and throttle position sensitive to a lesser degree. Basically, the slide position is a function of airflow, which is a function of both rpm and throttle position. For example, WOT at low rpm will be on the needle circuit, WOT at high rpm will be mostly main. Now, if you're talking Mikuni, then yes, it becomes a mostly a throttle position deal. The slide is mechanically actuated. Second, as I understand it, the main actually affects a pretty big rpm range. Through the midrange, the main and needle are working together. I've generally found it best to set the main first, since the main has a bigger effect on the mid-range than the needle has on the top end. Third, drilling the slide hole (and other tricks to make the slide more "responsive", i.e. lighter spring) is not necessarily a good idea, IMO. You can easily and inadvertently create a slide that's constantly "hunting" for position. Essentially, you're removing damping. But, if you want to do it, it's the offset hole in there. The center hole is for the needle. The best method for doing this stuff, IMO, is an a/f gauge. Dyno's don't simulate airflow. Jerome has done quite a bit of work with A/F gauges and as a result knows these carbs much better than me, I'd listen to what he has to say. AW | ||
| Bigfanof6 |
Thanks again, Guys. I'm going out and playing with this thing again in a litle while. You know what really sucks? I "Used" to be a bike mechanic. Back in the 70's, when you didn't have to drill out caps for mixture screws, enlarge holes in slides, (Which were round and shiny back then)and shim needles. (They were adjustable from the factory) (Thanks EPA!) We just put BIGGER carbs on until we reached the desired effect. The most intense thing we did, if you can step back in time, was install a blower, and I don't mean one of these little centrifugal things; we installed a Roots type blower on a 750/Four Honda. We're talking one of the old single overhead cam jobs, Folks. Sixty-seven horses stock. Probobly ended up with somewhere around a hundred HP, and we thought we were FLYIN! That thing was brutal to ride, and as unpredicatable as the average wife, but we were the baddest people on the block. At least until the motor blew up. Which wasn't long after the blower was installed. So, now that I have dated myself, and admitted to my ignorance of all things modern, I will go play with my jets some more. Thanks again. | ||
| Bigfanof6 |
Sportyeric, Any chance of getting photos of this catch can Davet came up with? Chris |
