| Author | Message | ||
     Johnsachs |
Peace, We have tried 44mm.carbs,and bored out stockers(work ok),but have gotten the best results with the 40mm.stock carb.We ALWAYS use the red Peterson regulator.Set it at 1 1/2 to 2 lbs.of fuel press,NO MORE, and you should be on the money.I like the needle Aerocharger supplies,and depending on the engine size,and what it likes on the dyno is where I size the main(about a 215).If you have any further problems,ping me. | ||
| Jasonl |
John Sachs the Drag racer?! | ||
| Aaron |
Duncan: I may be way off base here, but it's cheap and easy to try ... I recently went through some very similar struggles on a boosted setup. Couldn't get the combo of jetting and timing right. Nothing was making sense or behaving the way I expected it to. Long explanation. Anyway, on the advice of Mr. Wizard, I tried a simple experiment: backed the plug gaps way down. Like .022 down. Voila, problems solved, dialed everything right in immediately and things made sense again. Cyl pressure was just too high for the ignition. And yes, it was hot-rod ignition stuff. Good luck. AW | ||
| Johnsachs |
Jason, That would be my oldest son,running a pro-mod Suzuki.Won 2 out of 3 Prostar races so far this season,with a best of 6.74 @ 197.I stopped when he went faster than I did. John | ||
| Y2k01x1 |
cyclonem2drew: i'm looking for a catch can for my 2001 X1. perhaps something that i can clamp to the frame without damaging the paint. how did you decide on the pingel, where did you get info, how much, did you order online, etc...? thanx! | ||
| Buellistic |
FYI TUNERS: Put a K&N AIR/FUEL MONITOR on my 1997 S3T. No carb mods except change LOW SPEED to a #45 as indicated in BWB. Monitor indcates the #45 is Racing mixture as in rich. Anybody got any coments. In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or Hardley-Harley | ||
| Scooter15 |
O.K. I'm new to this site and I'm sure the answer to my question is in here somewhere but I can't seem to find it. I have a 2000 M-2. I've got the Datona Boss and a Force Sidewinder. I know I need to rejet the carb but I don't really want to pay the dealer $200. I know I can do it but am not sure what I need to get. Do I have to get the Dyna-jet kit? Also the Dealer told me I need the race ignition or I'll burn up my motor. Are they just trying to sell it or do I really need it? Any info would be great. Thanks, Scott | ||
| Loki |
Scooter, look at the very top of this page. What info on parts required is there. The two jets and needle are all you really need. The cost is much lower also. Now being as since I already have a Boss and Sidewinder on my M2.... I still need to do the carb. I have only had the parts now for three months.... As for the ignition module. That would be a preference thing. Keeping the stock unit will not hurt the motor in the least. Unless you plan on living up above 5k, my vote is stick to the stock unit for now. Loki | ||
| Loki |
One more thing... If the dealer is gonna rejet the carb and dyno tune it! It would more than likely be worth the 2 C-notes to have the dealer do it. This way you will have a printed out bragging rights piece of paper.... Loki | ||
| Robr |
Scooter, don't go back to that dealer!!! You will not burn up your motor if you don't go to the race module. As for jetting the carb there is an excellent guide to doing it in the Tech Tips section of www.americanthunderbike.com. If you still feel unsure buy the dynojet kit, although it is outragously expensive it does come with excellent instructions. Forget about the thunderslide, it's not necessary. RobR. p.s.who was that dealer? I'll want to avoid him. | ||
| Aaron |
Scooter: look here to see what the race module brings to the party, and make your own choice. I personally don't understand why anyone would buy a jet kit. You can set the carb up for less than $20. AW | ||
| Cyclonem2drew |
Scooter, I'm also running the Force, the Daytona Boss on my '00 M2, and I had the bike re-jetted at the advice of the dealer. The kit (Thunderslide) does include some free dyno time (my dealer has a dyno on premises), so that off-sets some of the cost. The dealer never mentioned a race ignition, and they certainly would have if they could have had me spend more money!! My M2 runs like a champ now...try rejetting...you'll like it! LOKI- question about the pingel can...what size hose to run to the intake...1/2 inch? As for the filter outlet, I take it you used a K & N with the clamp-type end as opposed to the "male" type pin end? | ||
| Scooter15 |
Thanks everone for the advice. After looking at the dyno chart (thanks Aaron)I don't see the real reason for the race ignition. The slight improvement dosen't make it worth it to me. Scott | ||
| Tripper |
Scooter - you want the Buell Race Header, or comparable aftermarket system. Someone drag up that link to the comparison of the Race over stock and show him what he is missing out on. I can't find it. | ||
| Tripper |
Found it on SacBorg. Those guys are the best.  | ||
| Blackbuellm2 |
Scooter I did the rejet about a month ago. And I too run the Daytona Boss muffler. The rejet woke up the motor. Not a whole bunch more ponies, but throtle response is mucho mas improved. My advice is to buy the jets at the dealer, look up the Tech Tips on ATC web site, crack a cold one and have at it. You'll be glad you did. The only special tool you'll want is a set of ball end alan wrenches. They'll make your life a whole lot easier. | ||
| Scooter15 |
Well I just got done with the rejet. Got the parts at the dealer ($20) and had at it. Took about an hour. Much easier than I imagined. One question though. The main jet that I took out was a 200. Everything I read said I should put in a 190 (which I did) but I assumed that I would be going up in size instead of down. What am I missing or not understanding? Anyway, the bike runs great and I saved myself a bunch of money. Well not really because I orderd the parts for the '01 tach. They said it would be here by Fri. We'll see. Thanks everyone for the advice. Scott | ||
| Scooter15 |
Tripper, Question about the chart you posted. That difference looks huge compared to the chart Aaron referred to. What exactly do they have on the two bikes tested. Does the race kit refer only to the ignition or is that with headers, pipes, etc. I've never had my bike on the dyno but I have noticed a huge difference in power and torque with the boss and forcewinder. Will the ignition do that much for me? Also, how much can a header actually do. I know that the purpose of a header is to smooth out the exhaust flow. It seems to me that the stock one is fairly smooth smooth. Scott | ||
| Tripper |
Scoot; That graph reflects the difference between a stock X1 and a "Race Kitted" engine. The X1 KIT consists of Header, Muffler, ECM, and Air Cleaner mod (I forget the details on this). Most of the improvement I attribute to the header. On Fuel Injected bikes the Race ECM is critical for proper operation. In carburetd bikes the Race Module is not worth anything as Aarons work has shown. In my opinion adding a slip on muffler adds noise (desireable) and probably adds some power due to less system backpressure, but if you really want to turn on the light in your Buell, save your pennies and get a quality header like the Buell Race Header, Force, or Kooks. Should mention the West-Tek if you can find one (call ASB). Flame away boys&Girl. | ||
| Loki |
Drew, All the lines are standard -6 stainless steel braid as are all the fittings. I had to make adapters for the heads though. As for the filter it is just a clamp on that fit the outlet pipe. On the inlet side I ground down a -6 fitting to make a tight compression fit. loki | ||
| Jerome |
Scoot and Tripper : I entirely agree with what you say, Tripper. On my Cyclone, I had the following exhaust combinations : (1) standard 2" european header with standard muffler, (2) 2" european header with SuperTrapp muffler, (3) american 2.5" header with SuperTrapp, (4) Buell race kit 2.5" header with SuperTrapp. There's no discussion which is the best setting : number 4 !!! The race header is serious bang for the bucks, think about it. Its extra 9.5" of individual tubes before they get into the collector makes a really big difference. | ||
| Reepicheep |
OK.. I have successfully passed the "leaking rocker box" test, and am ready to move onto the "forcewinder and rejet" test... and I once again need your help. Coming from a Japanese bike, the thoughts of meddling in the affairs of carbs left me terrified, but this Keihn CV carb is currently looking pretty approchable. Plus, the whole rocker box thing left me pretty cocky  Nothing like a little carb work to keep me humble I have a 2000 M2, with the stock CV carb, and stock exhaust. The stock exhaust will likely stay for some time. I will be putting on the Forcewinder intake, and rerouting the breather tubes to a filter. I don't really care about getting more power, I want to make sure I am not running lean (thus hot) and get rid of the occasional acceleration cough and hiccup. Frankly, I would rather have better economy then more power. I found the forcewinder used, and went to my local Harley shop (which just put up a the welcoming blue Buell sign last week... Woo Hoo!) and the only parts they had in stock were a 180 fast jet and a 45 slow jet. I bought these (they were cheap). They did not have the sportster needle, or the shims. So, my current setup would be the forcewinder intake, stock carb, stock exhaust, 45 slow jet, 180 main jet, stock needle, no shim. If I just want to improve runnability and durability of the engine, will this be an acceptable combo? Remember, I am not interested in maximizing dyno numbers, just runnability and durability. If not, where can I get the shims... auto parts stores? Do you cut your own down from brass stock? Thanks in advance! Bill | ||
| Chuck |
Bill, your stock main is probably larger than the 180 you bought. My 2000 M2 came with a 200 (which, by the way, still seems adequate even after installing new cams last Saturday). The 200 was definitely too "fat" for stock...Anyway, drill out the plug that hides your pilot screw, and set it at 2 and 1/2 turns out. That should be good to start. Then install the 45 pilot jet. You might be okay without shimming the needle...but if not, try getting some of those screw kits that are used to attach port connectors onto the backs of computers. These have tiny flat washers that I think have an i.d. large enough to accomodate the needle. We've used these on jap race bikes with success, though I've not tried them on my M2. Hope this helps. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Interesting Chuck.... if the main is visible I will see if it is marked when I have the carb out. If it is indeed a 200, that may explain why I am only seeing fuel economy in the low 40's when I was expecting 50's.... I will leave it alone if I am in doubt. And I definately have about a gazzilion of those little computer washers around in all shapes and sizes... but I think I would be worried about the chrome or galvanized steel eventually reacting with the fuel... maybe I will hit an auto parts or plumbing store tomorrow and try and scare up some brass parts, and just be prepared to sand them down until they are the right diameter. What characteristic of the carb does shimming the needle change? I understand the low speed circuit and high speed circuit that the jets effect... what does the needle shim effect? What are my clues that I should still do it? Thanks again, Bill | ||
| Chuck |
Look here,Bill. The needle is attached to the slide...so as the slide moves up and down to meter the flow of air, the needle moves up and down to meter the flow of fuel. Basically, shimming the needle changes the effective air/fuel ratio for a certain throttle opening (see link to chart above). Shimming needle up means slightly richer mixture. Evaluating the affects of this is tricky. Even a dyno may not help much because runs are made at wide open throttle and so the needle taper is only effective for a brief time during the "run". Most tuners work backwards: they select a main to maximize power and then adjust the needle and/or its position to optimize driveability at part throttle openings. Example: peak power has been reached by experimenting with different main sizes; but a flat spot is felt when attempting to accelerate from a cruising speed of fifty mph in 4th gear. The needle is probably set too high (or rich) --- shims should be removed. Anyway...carb tuning is part science and part art...but its still better than fuel injection IMHO  | ||
| Scooter15 |
Bill, I just did the rejet on my M2 and I found the washer/shim at a r/c car hobby shop. They use them to shim the motors and they are brass. They fit the needle perfectly and they were .010". My stock jet was also a 200. Scott |
