| Author | Message | ||
     Rubbinisracin |
I was heading to the beach and had made it about 50 miles when I started to hear a pinging "like" sound under load then 1/2 mile later I started hearing an exhaust gas leak. I limped it to my friends house and then towed it home. Technically did not leave me stranded, BTW. Turns out one of the head bolts/nuts was loose on the rear head. I loosened/lubed/re-torqued the 4 on that head per the manual. 1 mile down the road and I hear the exhaust leak immediately. So I thought maybe the head bolts/nuts were stretched, so I bought new ones and repeated the previous steps. Same result. Last night I pulled the head completely and found the head gasket blown between the cylinder and bolt/stud area. I'm not sure if the head gasket blowing was what caused the loose head bolt or if the loose head bolt caused the blown gasket. The stud feels solid in the block but I wonder if its starting to pull the threads internally? Should I pull the stud, then helicoil or time sert the hole, then replace with a new stud along with a complete gasket kit? Or just do a complete gasket kit?  | ||
| Essmjay |
Were you able to reach the correct torque value on the nut that had been loose? | ||
| Rubbinisracin |
Well, I don't really know the final torque but it reached the first two stages fine. The manual has me do something like, 9 ft-lbs. then 14 ft-lbs. then 1/4 turn. The 1/4 turn felt solid by hand but I can't really say how precisely similar it was to the other 3. | ||
| Buellistic |
In this day of TECHNOLOGY and a SERVICE MANUAL says a 1/4 turn more ... Just what are TORQUE WRENCH's for any way ??? You must remember that putting TORQE'ing compound on just the threads is not enough as it is supposed to be put on any metal to metal contact !!! How about: 9 ft.lbs. then 22 ft.lbs. then 35 ft.lbs. then 42 ft.lbs. then 42 ft.lbs once more !!! | ||
| Rubbinisracin |
For the record I put oil on both the threads and the bolt heads. The manual warns about how precise the studs must be. I'm just a little worried about me drilling slightly off level or something, even though it should self center. I mean there a few steps involved in repairing threads that may leave a slightly different center than the factoring machining. Maybe I'm over thinking it. Also any idea what the heads are, I noticed it says 1200 and not buell. Looks like flat shelf. And the black paint isn't on the underside completely. Heres the top side.  | ||
| Buellistic |
They are just SPORTSTER HEADS ... My 1997 S3T has LIGHTING HEADS so in 1997 model year was the first year used on BUELLs ... IMHO, COPPER COMPOUND TORQUE'ing compound is the only compound to use !!! If you are careful you could put a HELICOIL in it as they come with directions on "HOW TO" ... Here is some things that is not in the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL: It does not say to give the INTERNAL THREAD HEAD STUD CAP NUTS a rap with a hammer/punch ... "WHY", because it helps break the threads loose and this is very important on a engine that has never been apart ... It does not say to give the exhaust stud nuts a rap with a hammer/punch and spray PB Blaster on the exhaust stud nuts so the studs do not come out with the nut ... (Message edited by buellistic on June 06, 2012) | ||
| Firemanjim |
Not to worry, seen a bunch come through here where head bolt has loosened. Mostly at that same spot. Get some good cometic gaskets and torque them proper and you are good to go. | ||
| Rubbinisracin |
Awesome, thats what I'm hoping does the job. Hopefully I'll have it done this weekend. | ||
| Screamer |
Just for clarification, the reason for the "torque-turn" method of tightening is that friction under the bolt head may give a false torque reading - leading to inadequate clamp load. inadequate clamp load can permit gasket failure. The torque-turn method permits proper bolt "stretch" and clamp load and is very successful when used with the stock compression style fiber "fire-ring" gaskets. The torque-turn method does not work well with the solid copper type of "high compression" gaskets that Bartels used to (and maybe still do) sell. | ||
| Buellistic |
FRICTION under the BOLT HEAD is what ANTI-SIZE COMPOUND is for ... | ||
| Screamer |
Sorry Buellistic - didn't mean to offend or start an argument. Anti-seize as an assembly lube probably works pretty well. | ||
| Essmjay |
Don't sweat it, Buellistic is always shouting about everything. |
