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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through December 09, 2011 » X1 fuel pump/o2 sensor issues? » Archive through October 19, 2011 « Previous Next »

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Snafu5962
Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2011 - 08:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The engine had been stumbling and seemed only be running on one cylinder for the majority of the time and the check engine light would come on after about 15 min of riding. It got really bad so I took it to the Harley dealer to have them read the code and diagnose it for me.

They told me that it is the fuel pump and possibly the O2 sensor as well. After they tested it they couldnt get it to fire so I trailered it home.

When I got it home I pulled the plugs and they were black and wet. I installed new plugs and I can get it to fire now but it wont stay running and it runs pretty much just on one cylinder. The thing that puzzles me is that the pump engages and primes and sounds fine.

My question is do you think its really the pump or what do you think it is before I go and spend the time and money for the pump. Thanks
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01x1buell
Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2011 - 08:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i do not know much about that but what about the injectors?
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Snafu5962
Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2011 - 08:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the guy told me when i bought the bike a few weeks ago that he had just gotten them cleaned but who really knows...
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Buellistic
Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2011 - 08:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Now you know why "i" tell you BUELLers to get the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and PARTS BOOK for your YEAR/MODEL BUELL and be your own MECHANIC !!!

If you want the HELP "INFO" how to pull your CODES, just PM me for a copy ...

If you have a bad rear header exhaust gasket it will confuse your O2 sensor ...

(Message edited by buellistic on September 29, 2011)
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01x1buell
Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2011 - 08:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ahh i c u r from york pa.. i im over by easton.. i have ecmspy cable/ and laptop.
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Bpt
Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2011 - 08:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did the dealer check the fuel pressure? What is the pressure? Should be near 55lbs. Low fuel pressure will set O2 codes also.
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Snafu5962
Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2011 - 08:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

01x1: i am from york but im away at college in Slippery Rock, Pa but if i cant figure things out by next weekend i will bring her home and hopefully link up with you.

bpt: they said they checked it and it was at 3lbs. we all know dealers lie to get you to spend money thats why im asking before i buy.
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01x1buell
Posted on Friday, September 30, 2011 - 07:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

snafu i have no idea where slippery rock is, and yes if you need a cable just pm me and i am sure i can meet up with you.
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Snafu5962
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 12:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Update: i sprayed starting fluid on the front and rear intakes and the bike runs well when i spray the front intake indicating the seal is bad so the H-D dealer lied to me. where is the cheapest place to order seals?
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 02:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

INTAKE SEALS Class 101, just PM me if you want a copy ...
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Snafu5962
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 02:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PM sent. not sure how to check my PMs if u send one though because I am new here and never got one before...
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Snafu5962
Posted on Wednesday, October 05, 2011 - 04:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just installed new seals as instructed and I'm still having the same issues as before. The bike will not run on its own. I'm totally mind boggled by this point so I guess I will be trailering it 5 hrs back to to get to 01X1's ecm spy.

01x1 i just sent you a PM
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Firemanjim
Posted on Wednesday, October 05, 2011 - 06:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your bike was running lean as a result of your seals and ECM "learned" and applied a bunch of fuel to overcome the lean area making your bike foul plugs. O2 sensor code then for over rich. Bad fuel pump will make bike real lean.It would never even fire at 3 psi.
Check your AFV, betting it is way above 100,needs to be reset so bike can run properly.
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01x1buell
Posted on Wednesday, October 05, 2011 - 06:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

justin, damn i thought you where closer turns out you are about 120 miles from me.. i e mailed you.
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Snafu5962
Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 08:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I tried just the fuel filter and I still have the same results. Working on ordering a fuel pump now and going from there I guess. I'll keep everyone posted.
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Akbuell
Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 01:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Since the plugs are black and wet, it would seem the pump is working. I might choose to look elsewhere, for the time being. As an aside, fuel injection systems are so prevalent now, there should be lots of places nearby to allow you to get a second opinion.

As to the running issue, with the light coming on after running for 15 mins or so, look into checking/replacing the engine temp sensor. If they get into a pre-fail mode, or they 'shift' calibration, they can cause all kinds of running issues and throw codes, none of which will be an ETS code.
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Snafu5962
Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 01:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

sounds like I need to buy ecm spy or find someone in the Pittsburgh area that has one before I do anything else...
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 02:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the engine trouble light is coming on, you can read the codes without ECM spy.
All you need to do is short two of the pins in the data connector and turn on the ignition without starting it up.

http://bcrider.com/DDFI.html

You can use a jack knife to short the pins. Just don't bend them!

If you had an intake leak for a few miles, your ECU will crank up the fuel mixture to compensate. If this is the case, get it on the highway to let it relearn.
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Snafu5962
Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 06:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

it starts up but shuts right off. I cant even baby it to run anymore so taking it on the highway or even getting it to throw a code is out of the question.

I am mind boggled and dont know what else to do other than get ecm spy unless someone can shine some telekenesis on my bike
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01x1buell
Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 07:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i wish i could help you man, hope you get it fixed soon, and again if you come home again let me know ahead of time and i can do my best to free up time to help... sorry about last time i had to get my truck fixed( u joints blew out ) had to replace all of them.
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Snafu5962
Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 07:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

01x1 I might just make a special trip home to link up with you soon maybe in the beginning of November sometime because even if i get ecm spy i dont know how to use it and will prob mess my bike up worse
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01x1buell
Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 07:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ecmspy is pretty simple, i bought mine off of ebay and it came with a tuning guide and basic instructions and i also got alot of help from guys here.. just let us know how everything works out.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 08:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just because you put new intake seals in doesn't mean you fixed the leak. Easy to re-do just to make sure, when you get the chance.

DO NOT BUY A NEW FUEL PUMP!

When I bought my '00 X1 last December, it too was running on one cylinder. Turned out to be the engine temp sensor and then I also replaced the O2 sensor.

Here is what you want to do to read the codes. Your data connector is a 4-pin connector. It is located in the steering head area and has a gray rubber boot over it. Position the connector so that the connector lock is facing to the 12 o'clock position. Then, jumper the right two pins together. This will allow you to observe the DTC's or better known as the Diagnostic Trouble Codes, at the check engine light in your tachometer.

Once you've done that, turn your ignition switch to RUN and your kill switch to the start position BUT DO NOT START THE BIKE.

You'll now observe, via the check engine light, a flashing code that will tell you what, if anything, may be giving you DTC's. Make sure you have pencil and paper handy and write the codes down. The first sequence will be several flashes followed by the FIRST DIGIT of the code (count the flashes and record), then a pause followed by the SECOND DIGIT of the code (count the flashes and record). WRITE DOWN THOSE TWO digits and wait to see if you have any more DTC's that count out. Mine had two. You may not have any.

Let us know what codes, if any, you record.

Another thing to check is your engine temp. sensor wiring for fraying. On your '99, the ET sensor is located down through the rear head rocker cover and the wire that comes out of the rocker cover sometimes chafes enough at the "bend" to cause a short, resulting in a poorly running bike.

Report back when you check your engine temp sensor wire for chafing and have jumpered your data connector pins and read out any DTC's you may have.

By the way, I'm at work or I'd give you all the DTC codes but the service manual is home.

(Message edited by two_seasons on October 18, 2011)
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Snafu5962
Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 09:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the engine temp wire looks pretty haggard. I will jumper the pins and see what comes up tomorrow or thursday sometime and report back. thank you for the helpful info.
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Snafu5962
Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 09:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

wait, what im thinking of may not be what you are talking about. The wire im looking at is right next to the rear spark plug and is wrapped in a weaved jacket...
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Two_seasons
Posted on Wednesday, October 19, 2011 - 09:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's the one. Black nylon weave of some sort.

It goes down into a recessed hole on top to the sensor.
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Snafu5962
Posted on Wednesday, October 19, 2011 - 11:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I jumpered the connectors and it looks like its throwing code 11 which is the TPS. What should I do now?
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Two_seasons
Posted on Wednesday, October 19, 2011 - 11:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'll check code 11 when I get home.
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Snafu5962
Posted on Wednesday, October 19, 2011 - 11:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

or do I add the 2 codes together making it code 23 which is the front injector which I have been suspecting was the problem most of the time?
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Snafu5962
Posted on Wednesday, October 19, 2011 - 11:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

well I was reading the how to on getting the codes and it seems that maybe all im getting is a bunch of flashes and no codes. Im confused and frustrated. I guess I just need to give it up and get ECM SPY or something
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