| Author | Message | ||
     Thestig |
As you can guess I have a 95 S2 (#07 of the 28 cal bikes) and I need to replace the swingarm bearings. I have been looking all over the web for a good how to on this and have come up with nothing. I have the parts but could use some tech support. I have some basic Questions. 1. Do you need to remove the side plates with the foot pegs on them? If so what is the best way to do so? Bolts don't want to come out. I have yet to really try forcing them. 2. Are there any special tricks I need to know to remove the swingarm from the bike? I am sure this is all very basic for you all but I was hopping to benefit from your experience. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance. | ||
| Sportyeric |
I found that the side plate bolts have a lot of friction from the area under the beveled head that resist efforts to undo them. Lots of WD 40. I used an electric impact wrench and had to replace the bolts when done. That's all I've got for you. | ||
| Thestig |
Thanks sporty, Did you have to remove them to get the swingarm off? | ||
| Road_thing |
Stig: I'm pretty sure you'll have to pull the plates off to get at the swingarm bearings. Like Eric said, you'll probably mangle the heads getting them out. I used an Allen wrench and a cheater bar to break mine loose, but a rattle-gun would probably be better. I put anti-sieze on my new ones when I put my bike back together, and I check them periodically to make sure they're not loosening up. As long as you've got it apart it's a good time to replace the isolators if your old ones have a lot of miles on them. rt | ||
| Buffalobolt |
Yes. You'll need to remove the side plates to change the swing arm bearings. As Roadthing mentioned, if your going to replace the bolts (advised) while you are in there you might as well put new isolators on. If the old ones are OK, keep them for spares. I had concerns about the allen heads on the bolts rounding out. So, I took an old allen head socket and put it in each bolt and gave it a couple of sharp hits with a hammer to help break them loose. As final insurance, I heated them a bit with the torch. Overkill? Yeah, probably. But, I didn't have any horror stories about rounded off/broken bolts! | ||
| Thestig |
Thanks for the great info guys. Do you know where I can find the isolators online? Any idea what they cost? Thanks again, Great site. | ||
| Road_thing |
Buy your parts from Al Lighton at American Sport Bike. Great service, competitive prices, and they really know their stuff. Tell them what bike you've got and what parts you need and they'll take care of the rest. S2 isolators--$85/pair plus shipping. rt | ||
| Firemanjim |
Soak the bolts front and back with liquid wrench, then hit them good with a brass drift to break them loose, then an impact. Have had to drill the heads off more than a couple over the years. Put them back with anti-seize all over! And the S-2's cannot use the "updated" rear isolators with the ears on them. Any bearing supply house will have replacement bearings. I made a tool to get the isolator alum plugs out by grinding down the tangs on a big pickle fork. | ||
| Easy_rider |
I couldn't bring myself to cut down a pickle fork, but was able to have a bud make me a serviceable item out of aluminum. I can loan it to you if you'd like. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Dris,somehow had 3 of same tool,so one was ground down.Still works well. |
