| Author | Message | ||
     Terrible1one3 |
Well I put my bike up for the whole winter for the first time in a year. Changed the oil before I put her away, got a battery tender and plugged it in and left it. Had a nice sunny day and a few of the new neighbors ride so I went with them. The bike was great, it needed a few maintenance items so I started them today. First of all, the Drummer is on it's second or third year and was starting to experience some surface rust. I removed it, took off the exit, cleaned the heck out of it, sanded and painted it. Should have repacked it as most of the packing is gone and it is LOUD! I will do that next tire change instead. The front brakes have been pulsing since 1k miles (I bought it new with 300 miles (was a test/demo bike)). I never had it replaced under warranty and after warranty was dreading paying for it, so I used mostly rear brake and have gotten used to that. Well these new guys I ride with really push their cruisers and the roads down here in Virginia are much better than central Michigan so it was time. Ordered up a new front rotor from the local Harley/Buell dealership (yes they still have a few Buell's and Buell is still in their name). Picked up 3 quarts of synthetic, and a quart of Formula +, along with gaskets and filter. Also ordered some Lyndall Racing Pads from www.AmericanSportBike.com Great site, I have another $500 being spent there in the very near future. Jacked the bike up while the drummer was drying and removed the front wheel, pretty painless minus having to remove the Caliper to remove the wheel. I guess that's one of the negatives to the brake system and the inner fender. After doing that I pulled the stock pads, still a TON of wear left but I have heard people put the blame on them for the pulsing showing up so I trashed them. Removed the wheel and then the brake rotor. Took it to a window to see how flat it was and to my surprise it was pretty darn flat. Very small amount didn't touch on one side when the other was pressed, don't know if the pulsing is rotor warp related or pad dust buildup related, or if it just wasn't broken in properly with all the Demo people beating on it for 20 miles at a time for 300 some odd miles. Got the call that the rotor arrived about 10 minutes after washing my hands. I would have ordered from American Sport Bike but they have a stupid, should be illegal rule that they won't install parts not purchased through them. I would have gotten the rotor about 4 days earlier through American Sport Bike but luckily it was the same price at the dealer. I didn't want to install the rotor myself because I don't have a torque wrench, lock-tite (at the moment), and didn't know how much play there was to center the rotor or if it needed to be checked on the tire balance after. The guy pocketed $20 bucks and installed the rotor for me no ticket... naughty Harley guys! lol Came home, didn't expect to finish the Buell until the weekend but had all the stuff done so I re-assembled my now dry muffler, Installed the front wheel and new pads, took the bike off the stand and installed the drummer again (my god Buell didn't make putting that exhaust on to easy did they!). Had it all together, the rotor looks awesome with zero wear on it but I knew that would change. I also cleaned the caliper per American Sport Bike's recommendation while the pads were out. I didn't install the metal clips on the new pads as American Sport Bike said they don't use them but I could if I wanted to. Buttoning it all back up I went for a quick 15 mile ride as the sun was setting. I was very easy and consistant on the front brakes and they were the same back. They engage much sooner in the lever pull, I'm guessing that is easily adjusted at the lever, but all in all they feel great. Not as much initial bite as the stock set up had but much more control over how much braking is actually happening. As for new year maintenance I am going to tackle the rest tomorrow or Thursday. I am looking at primary fluid change and clutch adjustment (if anyone has a write up on that or the service manual pages that would be great). I am doing this because the engagement point of the clutch is a bit out of spec and there is too much slack in the cable. I have adjusted clutches on all my other bikes before but forget what the procedure is for the Buell's. Last one I did was my '04 Lighting at similar mileage. (Loosen the middle screw thing, tighten until you feel friction then back it out 1/4 or 1/2 turn? Adjust the clutch cable before or after this? Roughly a nickel's gap when you pull the housing from the lever or dime? I can't remember the details. Will probably do the engine oil and filter even though I doubt it really needs it, but I have been changing it super often since I've had it so that is nothing new for me  . Also I haven't adjusted the suspension since the bike was 2 weeks old (in my possession at least) so it is due to have all the knobs adjusted and me to catch up on tuning it. That and I gave it it's first bath in over a year! (yeah I know but the bike doesn't really look any better when it is clean as oppose to dirty) then after that the bike will be like new again! I am rededicated to my Ulysses since fixing the brake. It was really hindering my enjoyment of the bike, I am kicking myself for waiting so long to do it. My bike is still for sale in the for sale section but I'm considering raising the price to a point where it is actually worth getting rid of, but I know it wouldn't sell at. I think I might stick with this bike for a few more years. The first 4 have been great and it is only getting better with age!} (Message edited by terrible1one3 on March 18, 2010) | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Keep it! KEEP IT! I've got 2 sets of spark plugs, 2 oil filters, 8 quarts of Amsoil, POR15 anti-rust muffler paint, and a few other goodies all ready for my two XB's. I'll likely tear into them this weekend. | ||
| Jphish |
The clutch is easy but specific in terms of steps. 1) pull up rubber boot on clutch cable 2)back off jam nut and turn adjusting nut (the long one) to loosen cable a bit, 1.5 - 2 turns plenty. 3) open inspection cover (don't loose spring and locker) turn CC to where you feel resistance - then turn back clockwise 1/4 - 1/2 turn. put cover back on 4) then turn cable adjuster til you have 1/16 - 1/8" space between ferrule & bracket when pulling on cable - see pic in your owners manual. 15 mins tops & worth the effort. Don't forget to check primary chain while your down in that area. Good luck, j | ||
| Jphish |
pg 1-26 in manual. j | ||
| Terrible1one3 |
Will be doing this today, have read the procedure a few times as far as backing out the screw and I've heard anywhere from 1/8 to 1/2 turn so I am going to go for the 1/4 . I have done this a few times just not in a few years . Have to go get an oil pan to catch all the old junk, not an issue other than the closest auto supply store is not close at all . | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Today was spring maintenance day for me! Changed the oil, filter, tranny fluid, and spark plugs on both XB's. (Spark plugs weren't bad for my first time, I just followed this writeup: http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/General-Moto rcycle-Chat/Spark-plug-write-up and used a hose to get them started.) Amsoil 20w50 in the engines and trannys. Supertech filters NGK Iridium plugs Also did the oil/filter in my car (amsoil and k&n $$$$$$) as well as the girlfriends car (supertech and supertech!) I still need to swap the back to the summer wheels on the car and pull and paint the muffler and chin piece on the Uly. I'll get those on Thursday if it's dry. | ||
| Tootal |
If anybody is repacking mufflers don't use the muffler packing that is loose strings or real thick pads. This stuff burns out and you'll have to do it again. In Harley land there is a guy named Joe Minton that has been tuning harleys for eons. He's worked with Jerry Branch, Kerker and Mikuni. Basically he know's his stuff! He put out an article on repacking mufflers and he uses 10 mil fiberglass cloth. He cuts the correct width and wraps it around the inner tube until it's at least 3/8" thick minimum. More is ok. You can then use some stainless wire or stainless wire ties to hold it all in place. I tried this on my supertrapp I have on my Harley. I took it apart after a years worth of riding and it's all still there, unburned. I was amazed. There is nothing special about the cloth, the same stuff you would use to fix a Corvette body. Joe has tried to get muffler makers to use it but they would rather sell you more crap. After I redid my muffler the throttle response improved and the bike ran better because the exhausted flow was not being interrupted by flowing through the holes in the tube yet it was quieter. |
