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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through January 17, 2010 » Tweaks that require a warm bike vs. cold bike « Previous Next »

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7873jake
Posted on Sunday, January 10, 2010 - 09:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Having finished a bunch of miscellaneous PM and electrical additions, I now want to dive into some ECM changes but can't find mention (or consensus in the archives) on whether a bike should be cold/warm before I make a few changes to the ECM, specifically:

does the bike need to be warm to check/adjust timing using ECMSpy and the manual's procedure for check/adj?

does resetting the TPS require a warm bike or can it be done on a cold bike?

If, when I check my AFV on a cold bike, I find it not at 100, can I reset it to 100% or does the bike need to be "at normal operating temp" before I look at this value and/or change it?

I have the guidelines and archive info for setting TM's "square idle". Should those changes be undertaken on a bike at normal operating temp or can I make the changes on a cold bike, then evaluate my handiwork from there?
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Dio
Posted on Sunday, January 10, 2010 - 11:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

TPS reset requires operating temp for correct setting. Not sure about other adjustments or programming changes.
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7873jake
Posted on Monday, January 11, 2010 - 10:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Dio

I was most worried about the TPS reset. I didn't think the timing had to be adjusted or set warm as I've checked/set timing on every other bike I've owned cold but just wanted to make sure that this creature wasn't different somehow.
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Froggy
Posted on Monday, January 11, 2010 - 11:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It is best to do the TPS and primary chain adjustments warm. They can be done cold, but it is easier to screwup.

I would also wait for your bike to warmup if you are playing around with the maps and such, that way it isn't in cold start enrichment mode.
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Pso
Posted on Monday, January 11, 2010 - 12:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had a dealer that would do my TPS cold and it was always worse than if they had left it alone. I finaly got the software and cables to do it myself. Operating temp and bike runs good.
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7873jake
Posted on Monday, January 11, 2010 - 05:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ahhhhh, the nuances. That's what I was looking for!!

Still looking for a quarter slot or bill feeder on the side of my laptop by which to pay admission to this site sometimes.
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Towpro
Posted on Monday, January 11, 2010 - 05:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pso, good information.
I can't for the life of me figure out why TPS zero (where the physical butterfly is closed tight against the physical throttle body bore) would be different hot from cold but your experience shows otherwise. Thanks

I think I did mine cold. It runs great (I think) but I will reset it hot once it gets warm enough the bike can actually heat up to "hot".
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Etennuly
Posted on Monday, January 11, 2010 - 06:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the bike has a few miles on it, like maybe 10,000 +, it might be a good idea to clean the throttle plate and throttle bore with some spray carb cleaner before doing the TPS reset.

The throttle bore is aluminum, the plate and rod are bronze/brass, they heat and expand at different rates.

I have found it is best to run the engine up to temp with the air box cover off and the air cleaner removed. If you clean the plate and bore while it is hot you don't have to worry about the cleaner running down the cylinders, it will evaporate.

If you have any problems getting it to zero perfectly, there is a thread around here where one of the mechanically minded shows you how to do a 'physical zero' of the throttle plate before doing the ecm match up.

If you need to do so, adjusting and lubing the throttle cables should be done first.
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