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Archive through January 14, 2009Johnboy77730 01-14-09  03:04 pm
         

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Armymedic
Posted on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 04:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+1 on the DDMtuning.com kits from Apexcone. I'm running 55W in both Hi and Lo with 4500K in low and 6K in the Hi. They also have an accessory harness that I wouldn't run the HIDs without.
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Hangetsu
Posted on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 04:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So when running HIDs in both high and low beams, is the high beam switch then non-functional?
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Armymedic
Posted on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 04:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nope. Works same as before. I did do the wiring harness switch-a-roo trick to run both beams when the high beams are switched on though.

(Message edited by armymedic on January 14, 2009)
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 04:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I ran the relay for the low beams to the accessory plug.

I ran the high beam relay off the high beam bulb connection.
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Hangetsu
Posted on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 04:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hmm, I guess once I have all the parts in front of me and start digging into it, it will make more sense. But when I hear, "must use new, beefier harness" but it's somehow rigged into the stock switches, it confuses me a bit. Ft_bstrd, the thread on your conversion seems pretty detailed. When I decide to take this project on, I'll study what you did a little more closely. I'm sure it's more straight forward than I am imagining.
Thanks for all the good info.
A-
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Armymedic
Posted on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 05:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The accessory harness through DDM makes install a snap and doesn't use the stock harness for power needs.
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 05:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Be glad to help.

There are two sets of connections you will be making.


One set actually provides the power to the HID system. That is the connection that will be beefier and run separate from the stock harness.

The second connection runs the relay. Think of the relay as a light switch for the light switch. If the relay isn't on, the lights won't come on even though there is power running from the battery to the HID system.

The relay is run to a source that when activated supplies current to the relay. When power goes to the relay the switch "closes", turns on, allowing power to flow from the batter to the system. The lights now will come on.

What you connect the relay to will determine when and how the lights come on. If you connect the relay to a connection that is always on (like back to the battery), the lights will always be on.

If you connect the relay to a connection that is only on when the ignition switch is in the "on" or "run" or "accessory" positon, the lights will be on. When the ignition switch is in the "off" positon they will NOT be on, the relay is not closed. An example of this would be the power plug or the little 194 bulb in the center of your headlight housing.

If you connect the relay to a connection that is on only when you switch it on, you can turn the lights on and off when the bike is on. An example of this type of connection would be the high beam bulb socket. If you wire the relay to run off the socket, when the high beams are off, the relay is not switched and the HIDs are off. When you turn the high beams on, you close the relay and the HID lights come on.

I chose the accessory plug because I wanted the lights on all the time and when I turn on the high beams I get both high and low beams on. Only my high is able to be switched on and off. As long as my ignition key is on, my low beams are on.


Hope that helps.
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Hangetsu
Posted on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 06:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ft_bstrd,
That makes total sense. Thanks! It was the whole relay thing that was confusing me. From the first thread I read about this conversion, I was never really clear as to what the relay was for. I couldn't get around the question of why I just couldn't use the stock wiring & switching.
I really appreciate the time you took explaining this to me.
Once I do this, I'll post the results.
Cheers.
A-
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Florida_lime
Posted on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 08:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I used Fatty's pictorial as a guide when I did my HID conversion. It was a BIG help.
I also did a PIAA yellow fog light on the same circuit, and put the accessory switch in to the circuit so that I can switch off the HID when starting. Hit the switch, and I get the HID low beam AND the PIAA fog light. Gets noticed in daytime traffic pretty well, and works great at night.

The high beam (65W Osram bulb) is tied to the PIAA driving light, using the high beam wire to activate the relay. The switch works only the PIAA driving light, although I never run high beam without it.

My HID is switched off the euro parking light, so I have all 4 lights on @ high beam.

(Message edited by florida_lime on January 14, 2009)
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 08:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hangetsu,

Take pictures as you go along. It will us the opportunity to see some improvements to the technique that YOU come up with, and it will help you to think through the process of what you want to do and how you want to do it.

After I added the second kit, I moved the ballasts to under the inner airbox. Freed up space below the front flyscreen.

I had planned to get around to doing a Stebel conversion but never got around to it.
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