| Author | Message | ||
     Jayfredweb |
This may be more of a general board question... While I was trying to install my new Givi Rack, I managed to totally strip the head of a screw on my bike (that of course is after I broke off 3 bits trying to remove the screw). Would a screw extractor be my best option, or can anyone else recommend a better alternative???  | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Screw extractor should work. It shouldn't be any big deal. You could also use a Dremmel to slot the screw and use a screw driver. | ||
| Dustmann |
Penetrating oil is your friend  | ||
| Gwis2 |
If all else fails, drill and tap - no biggie... | ||
| Wbrisett |
Also check out this one: http://www.4grabit.com/Default.asp?gclid=COvF-872h pYCFQRfagodgWLRFA&bhcp=1 | ||
| Jayfredweb |
I tried the dremmel process already, but without success. I'll try the screw extractor tomorrow. If all else fails I guess I can try the "Grabit". Thanks for the quick responses! | ||
| Fung |
try an sharp chisel and hammer tap it out. | ||
| Thetable |
Stop by the store and pick up some P'Blaster. If it is stuck in there because of corrosion, the P'Blaster will loosen it up. But your still going to need the extractor. I would suggest Kroil, as I've heard nothing but great stuff about it, but I can't find it locally, and I always have at least one can of PB in the garage. Or you could try CRC's Freeze-Off. I keep wanting to try it, but I either don't think to pick it up at the store when I'm there, or I don't have room to carry it home. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Hand impact screw driver (the kind you tap with a hammer), combined with a dremel created slot, along with lots of heat and penetrating oil has worked well for me before. | ||
| Adamd |
if you can reverse it out use a reverse drill bit that's smaller than the bolt body. | ||
| Etennuly |
If you find a grip on it, you may want to try a little localized heat, as it probably has loctight on it. | ||
| Jayfredweb |
Well..., all efforts have failed. I've actually made it worse, if that was even possible. Tomorrow, I'll tale the part down to HD to see if anyone there has any ideas, but I may be at the point of no return. If all else fails, the part that the screw is in, is only $193. It's a small price to pay to get my bike back on the road! Thanks for all the suggestions! | ||
| Torontobuell |
I had the same problem when I installed my rack. The aluminum threads are very soft making it very easy to cross-thread a bolt. A heli-coil kit worked very well. I had to take the rear end of the bike off to do this. $70 bucks Canadian for the kit. Should be much less in the USA. A small bike shop will also give you a price on the phone. $100.00 or so from a shop in my area. Good luck. (A drill press was a big help.) | ||
| Reepicheep |
Whats keeping you from drilling out and heli-coiling? My '85 KLR-250 is more heli-coil then aluminum at this point. Many factory threads have failed, none of my heli coil threads have failed. If you broke out an easy out, a bullet shaped tungsten carbide dremel bit (at your local hardware store) will go through taps / easy outs just fine. Be careful though, it makes razor sharp little metal splinters that are really annoying when you put your hand on the ground and they bury themselves in your skin. I've put heli coils in really awkward spots without removing anything, and with only hand drilling. | ||
| Jayfredweb |
[Quote from Torontobuell] I had the same problem when I installed my rack. The aluminum threads are very soft making it very easy to cross-thread a bolt. A heli-coil kit worked very well. I had to take the rear end of the bike off to do this. $70 bucks Canadian for the kit. Should be much less in the USA. A small bike shop will also give you a price on the phone. $100.00 or so from a shop in my area. Good luck. (A drill press was a big help.) I actually have the rear off as well! The HD Service Shop had a go at it today. After a couple of hours of messing with it they determined that they could not remove the screw either. They referred me to machinist, but with their rates and quote, I'm looking at spending more for this process than the cost to replace the rear section. Damn screw!!! | ||
| Jayfredweb |
And..., the Heli-coiling process sounds good, but I think that is a little out of my league. Especially considering that I don't have access to a good drill press. | ||
| Bartimus |
Just remove the screw yourself by drilling it out. Start with a small drill bit, and work up to the last size needed to tap the hole... then use the proper sized tap, to clean out the last bit of the hole, and also clean out and repair whats left of the threads. Just be patient, use a low speed, with good pressure, to drill through the stripped bolt. |
