| Author | Message | ||
     Italialaw |
Can anyone give me guidance as to how to perform this? I looked everywhere in my service manual and can't find the proper instructions for this. Thanks! | ||
| Captainkirk |
Chapter 2 in my M2 manual. If you can't find it still, I'll give you the run down per my M/M. It's all in there, tho! | ||
| Italialaw |
Captain, Please enlighten me b/c the info is not in my service manual. email me if you want. thanks | ||
| Hans |
Italialaw: Are you looking at the right place? That is not the owners instruction booklet, which you get with the bike, but the service manual for workshops and dealers? Hans | ||
| Italialaw |
Hans, Yes, I'm referring to the service manual. Unless I'm totally missing the boat here, there are no specific instructions regarding install of brake pads or rotors in my 1997-1998 Buell Thunderbolt service manual. However, my manual is saved on a disk and I don't have a desk copy so maybe the brake pad/rotor info. never got saved to the disk. Any helpful instructions either my email or posting would be appreciated. Thanks! | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Italialaw..... What rims do you have? The PM rims are easier. The castalloy can be a bit of a pain. Both....remove the brake line (have something to catch the brake fluid) and caliper. PM: 6mm hex driver and a ? sized socket. The rotor bolts to the rim. Castalloy: 6mm hex driver and an impact wrench. You may need to heat the bolts to get them loose. Also expect to break a driver or 2. Because you can't reuse the bolts, I've found that using a back-out bit works better. Check here: Knowledge Vault Link for brake info. Be careful to not strip the outer screw cap. I've toasted them almost every time. A nice large screwdriver helps. | ||
| Buelliedan |
Lake, why do you remove your rear brake line? I have never done that. Just unbolt the caliper from the mount and pull it off before removing wheel. Italy, Definately take a propane torch and hit each bolt on the rotor for about 7 seconds before attempting to unscrew the bolts. Then hit the bolt dead center with a hammer, then unbolt. If you don't do this you will break your socket. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
I replace the brake fluid at the same time. Just an anal retentive thing. I tend to replace all the fluids too often. | ||
| Captainkirk |
You guys are freakin' me out! Law; It's there...I swear it is! Are you using the BUELL manual? Chapter (2.16) Rear Brake Caliper (pp 2-34) "DISASSEMBLY 1. See figure 2-45. Remove pin plug and pad hanger(5)(metric) to free brake pads 2. See figure 2-47. Remove clip (1) from caliper body" The rest of it goes towards replacing the piston seals, which you don't need to do. "INSTALLATION 1. See figure 2-46. Install caliper mount clip (1) if removed 2. See figure 2-45. Install caliper assembly on caliper mount. Brake pad surfaces must face rear brake rotor. a. Apply LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 271(red) to both caliper mounting screws(6,7)(metric) b. Install large caliper screw (metric). Tighten to 18-22 ft. lbs (24.4-29.8 Nm) c. Install small caliper screw(6)(metric). Tighten to 14.5-18 ft-lbs(19.6-24.4Nm)" In a nutshell; Remove the two standard screw plugs. Remove the hanger pins. Slide the pads out and put new pads in. You may have to pull the caliper off to compress the piston (two bolts with flexy rubber thingies). Should take all of 5 minutes. Front brakes are easy as well. I can walk you through those too if you can't figure it out after doing the rears. Now, for the rest of you...what's all this about heat and breaking stuff and removing brake lines? Just to change brake pads???? Who's been working on your bikes, anyway? Conan the Barbarian? I'm really confused at this point. It took me 5 minutes tops to change rear pads and less than 30 to do the fronts.We are talking about tube-frame Buells, right????????  | ||
| Captainkirk |
Law, After re-reading your post, I see you have the MM on disk. I would strongly recommend buying the paper version, as you can write in all kinds of hints, tips, part # supersedures, etc, plus the ease of taking it to the bike while working. Saved my bacon more than once! In the meantime, if you can't make heads or tails of my post, I could make a copy of the two pages and fax them to you, if you have a fax available. But it's really not that difficult to figure out. In the long run, if you're gonna do your own maintenance (and you SHOULD) it's in your best interest to have the paper MM.(parts M. too) Best of luck. Let me know if you get stuck. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Kirk...re-read the header. He's also removing the rear rotor. That little thing is a b!tch (with a capital B) to remove. | ||
| Road_thing |
Lake, I beg to differ. The rotor is a snap to remove. But to remove it, you've gotta the rotor BOLTS out! And yes, they are b**ches! rt | ||
| Italialaw |
Everyone: Thanks for all your help Kirk, I'll give you a fax # if I need the pages and thank you. Lake, I have the PM's on my bike. |
