Author |
Message |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, June 20, 2007 - 10:21 pm: |
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It looks like I'm going to source my own - the ones I took out didn't even have the same size heads! I got the thread specs (3/8-16 x 2.75"? I've got it written down...). Do I want to get Grade 8? 5? I used to use 8s all the time when I did concert rigging, but we didn't have nearly the vibration factor and I don't want something too brittle...and I know - proper torque, red loctite, all that good stuff. Question about the torque, though - do I torque with the engine on a jack, or with the weight on the bolts (no jack)? ....all I need now are some $^^%$*&^&( pistons..... |
Smoke
| Posted on Wednesday, June 20, 2007 - 10:38 pm: |
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my s2 had 2 different size bolts in the mount and head. i had to drill one of them bigger when i put the lightning heads on her. don't remember the sizes but grade 8 is what you want. i torque mine usually with the engine supported by a jack. American Sport Bike has the bolt kit. good luck, tim |
Mmmi_grad
| Posted on Wednesday, June 20, 2007 - 10:44 pm: |
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position your motor, install bolts tight and torqe down with motor on the jack with not much stress up or down. This job is on my list to do asap. I was thinking grade 9 for sure, or maybe stronger. I do not wana shear one off in the head. Im going to do some checking online about bolt strength. Can someone post the B-018 Service Bulletin procedure. How to install these new bolts????????? Please (Message edited by mmmi_grad on June 20, 2007) |
5liter
| Posted on Wednesday, June 20, 2007 - 11:01 pm: |
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Mmmi_grad: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/B018-263565.pdf |
Onahog
| Posted on Wednesday, June 20, 2007 - 11:40 pm: |
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I used F911 bolts in mine... I couldnt get 2 3/4 " but 3" were available . Thus I used lock washers,& good thick flat washers ...The 3" went in no problem.. Thunderstorm heads use 2 - 7/16 bolts regular 1200 heads use 1-3/8 bolt, 1-7/16 bolt... grade 9, NC thread..F911 Available at any Fasten-All store... Grade 12 was orderable.... |
Blake
| Posted on Thursday, June 21, 2007 - 04:27 am: |
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Those are very special bolts. Stronger than grade 8. Get the right bolts or suffer likely catastrophy. |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Thursday, June 21, 2007 - 08:24 am: |
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Al at American Sport Bike has a head bolt kit (with hardened washers) that is made specifically for this application. I wouldn't recommend it unless I use it myself. It's the good stuff. |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Thursday, June 21, 2007 - 08:27 am: |
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http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/A17049.html |
Mmmi_grad
| Posted on Thursday, June 21, 2007 - 08:49 pm: |
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going to Al's is almost another 50 bucks down the drain. Id rather just find two stronger bolts. I have the grade 8 washers already. Thanks for the tech pub 5liter. We have a fastenal store in town but the last time i went there I think I talked to the wrong chump. He just wanted to sell bolts in bulk packages, I know that how most go but... |
Onahog
| Posted on Thursday, June 21, 2007 - 09:30 pm: |
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My Fasten-all store sells by weight.. Ya can browse thru the bins and pick whatever ya want, weigh it out and pay for it...Thought theyd all be like that, but i am in the Great White North, so It may be diff.......Hankb |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Thursday, June 21, 2007 - 11:56 pm: |
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Well, I found Gr 8 bolts at the local ma-n-pa hardware store. Get home. Build engine (yay!). Go to install bolts. Left side, fine. Right side....uh, . If they were different size bolts before, it makes sense that they're different size bolt *holes*. <insert> I can't think of any adverse effects to having the hole enlarged at work tomorrow - the right way, on a press. Anyone? |
Smoke
| Posted on Friday, June 22, 2007 - 05:32 am: |
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i would guess that you are updating to newer model heads. if so, i used a 7/16 drill bit with a 1/2 inch shank with a 1/2 inch cordless drill and hand drilled mine. no problems. if s2 heads are going back on, don't drill, use the right size bolt. i wouldn't drill and tap the head for a bigger bolt. my .02 tim |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Friday, June 22, 2007 - 12:50 pm: |
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"We have a fastenal store in town but the last time i went there I think I talked to the wrong chump." I go to Fastenal almost every week. Those guys love me. I was surprised to see they were one of the sponsors for the American Grand Prix in Indy. They must be making rude cash. "going to Al's is almost another 50 bucks down the drain." It saves time driving around, looking for grade 8 bolts and getting laughed at by the chimps [sic] at Fastenal. |
Bob_thompson
| Posted on Friday, June 22, 2007 - 06:27 pm: |
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Joe, I have written on this before and will add this again. Grade 8 bolts are made for tensile strength. i.e. for great great torque holding two shear plates together for additional friction and they have a large amount of carbon content to achieve that end. We are concerned with breakage due to vibration, something not good for high carbon strength bolts. They are more prone to vibration breakage because of the high carbon content. The torque listing for these bolts does not require high torque so we are better off with a bolt with more vibration resistance and why I would choose a grade 5 bolt or better yet a stainless bolt which are both better suited to vibration resistance as is widely used in the aircraft industry. Also we need to insure that any bolt does not loosen and I safety wire mine also. This might start a thread war so lets hear what any of you mechanical engineers have to say. Bob |
Smoke
| Posted on Friday, June 22, 2007 - 08:15 pm: |
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i looked at my spare set of bolts from American Sport Bike and they have a F9 embossed on the head. i thought that the bolt kit was less than 50 but shipping might bring it up to that. there is always something else they have to fill it out. urethane isolators, bronze shifter bushings, gasket kits,etc or you can opt for the high dollar stuff. tim |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Friday, June 22, 2007 - 10:37 pm: |
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Well, I have the G8 bolts (and I do agree with Bob about the tensile vs dynamic strength) for now...and the factory bolts on order. Also got a new isolator rubber...since I'm that far and the old one looks, well, old. 17k miles, I'm in there, and it was less than $30 my cost. |
Onahog
| Posted on Saturday, June 23, 2007 - 12:18 am: |
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Im not a metal expert by no means, but the dude at fasten-all told me grade F911 is stronger and less brittle than stainless... I woulda loved to get a grade 9 or 12 stainless allen head bolt ....The look woulda bin nice and clean, but he said stainless didnt come in a grade 9 or 12.. he also told me the F911 is: F is the brand, 9 is the grade and the 11 is thread... I belive the factory bolts bore the F911 insignia as I had 1 from my 95 S2 that I took out and put an allen bolt in back when I knew F..all about bolts breakin off... I would say any grade 8-12 bolt or stainless would work just fine, and just keep yer eyes on em every time ya service yer scoot..... As Forest Gump would say " Thats all I got ta say about That!" |
Oldog
| Posted on Saturday, June 23, 2007 - 09:15 am: |
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Those are very special bolts. Stronger than grade 8. Get the right bolts or suffer likely catastrophy. Al at American Sport Bike has a head bolt kit (with hardened washers) that is made specifically for this application. I wouldn't recommend it unless I use it myself. It's the good stuff. Bolts 50.00$ head 400.00$, skin on my Butt Priceless My 0.02$ Get em from American Sport Bike SS + Aluminum + Water + Heat = corosion...} |
Buellzebub
| Posted on Saturday, June 23, 2007 - 12:29 pm: |
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here is the bolt spec for those who are interested. http://www.f911.com/fore2b.html pretty special stuff, 160 ksi tensile and a high temper point |
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