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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Chassis » Wheels » Archive through October 03, 2005 » S2 rear brake/swingarm noob question « Previous Next »

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Joplin
Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 11:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Alrighty then,,,,,,so this S2 I bought has a little brake and brake light issue that I was wondering if I could get a little help on. It seems as though one time when the rear tire was off ( I'm assuming thats the only way this could've happened) the allen bolt which is on the bottom/front of the caliper wasn't put into the recess provided for it (looks like it should go there) to keep the caliper assembly from rotating to the rear. It looks like it has been this way for a while aty least due to the wear on the top of the swingarm. The swingarm does not har the little welded cap on the top, it has a recess incorporated into the arm of it, so I am assuming this is the updated assembly. And the brake light doesnt work. Can it be that both switches are defective? Or if one goes does it prevent the other from functioning? Or is there a fuse I am overlooking? BTW, i do have the shop manual. The tail lights both are working as are all the other lights/lamps. The rear brakes dont look so hot so when I take off the wheel to make the caliper assembly right,I will probably change out the rotor and pad, should I go OEM? I also want to check the bearings,, so I ask, what to look for besides the obvious? TIA,,,,JM
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Blake
Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 12:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1. Brake light problem:
Does the brake light fail to work for both the front and rear brake? Have you confirmed for certain the integrity of the brake light bulb? Tail light is a separate filament inside the same bulb. Brake like filament can fail while tail light remains operational. You can swap tail light and brake light wires at tail light connector to confirm proper bulb operation (tail light will then activate brighter brake light filament, brake will activate dimmer tail light filament).

2. What is your question wrt the caliper assembly? The caliper assembly has nothing to do with the brake light switch. The switches are at/near the lever and pedal.

3. Can you describe more precisely than "not so hot" the condition of the brake? Rear brake is not so vitally important as front. If it works, leave it alone. Of course if pads are worn out, change them.

4. Read your service manual on how to check your wheel bearings.

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Joplin
Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 12:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks,,,,

1. yes, no (visual inspection=filament ok), will try
2. Does the allen bolt belong in the swingarm recess?
3. grooved,,~0.2" , is there a recommendation for replacement part?
4. I can read,, just looking for experienced input,,ie things not "published"

jm

edited by joplin on July 03, 2003
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Mikej
Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 01:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

On the brake light, check the spadelug connection under the bodywork in front of the license plate area where the wires connect. Mine was acting up and just needed to be disconnected and reconnected there. I figured this out after completely disassembling the entire bucket assembly.

S2's are circuit breakered, or at least I haven't found any fuses on mine yet (not that I've needed to nor looked too hard).

If a bolt is missing on your rear brake assembly then replace it. Missing parts do not function as well as existing parts. ;)

I don't know how to tell the difference between a pre- or -post swingarm, but I can tell the difference between the steel ones and the aluminum ones. :)

If the pads and brake rotor are worn then replace or repair them as needed. Without pictures and without being there it's hard to tell.

Wheel bearings should feel free yet snug and not gravelly feeling. If there is any doubt, or if they look all dry and pasty then just replace them. Ensure the bearing pocket isn't enlarged. If the bearings are sloppy-loose in the wheel hub then you may be looking at more than the cost of just the bearings. The Knowledge Vault on the site here has extensive discussions on wheel bearings. If you just want to limit your search to S2 issues then include S2 in your search words along with wheel bearing or bearings.

Hope this helped some, or at least hope it didn't hurt any.
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Dave
Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 01:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

...the last time my S2 was at a dealership for some insurance work, they managed to hook up the tail light spaded terminals incorrectly resulting in a non-existant brake light. Of course when the went over their work prior to releasing it to me they caught the mistake. (not) Just one of many mistakes ....

DAve
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Bomber
Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 01:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

MikeJ wrote

Missing parts do not function as well as existing parts.

sheesh . . . .does that mean I gotta find and put back all those parts I've removed from the Ma Duece (and the Thumper, as well?)

Yikes . . . .guess I got my weekend planned!
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Mikej
Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 01:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ya only gots to replace the ones ya need.
The breadbox can remain on the kitchen counter as a bread cover.
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Blake
Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 02:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Grooved 0.2""? The disk ain't 0.2" thick. But if it is beyond the specified wear limit, then yes replace it. OEM is fine.

Yes, the big allen head goes into the pocket in the swingarm.

When I check my bearings I hold the wheel with fingers supporting the inner race of the bearings on each side and get it rotating. Its rotation should be silky smooth. If you feel ANY roughness they need replaced. Inner races should not have any radial free play. A little axial free play is normal.
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Joplin
Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 03:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the input,,,

yeah,,they are grooved 2/10ths of an inch deep,,,wow,,,cool huh,,,

Being a life sciences scientist,,I dont know radial vs axial play for certain.
?
radial = up and down to the axle
axial = along the axis of the axle
?

jm
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Blake
Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 03:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You got it.
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