| Author | Message | ||
     Duckbuell |
Howdy fellow tubers! Well my new 01 S3 is all that, and a bag of chips! Comfortable riding position, motor is awsome, handling is better than expected, and most of all it is not boring to ride! I waxed the body work, fastened some loose wires, and checked the charging system. Some quirks: Oil tank filler cap popped out and spewed oil on bike (is oil tank too full?), hard to secure seat down with metal tounge that slips under frame tab, front tire has slow leak. The PM wheels are showing a bit of corrosion because the bike spent alot of time sitting unused, shift linkage and stuff is a bit dry - oiled it. Next Plans: Get Pirelli Diablo Corsa tires, change motor and tranny oil, get spare key, and order wheel polishing kit from Eastwood. Thanks for all your enthusiasm and great advice on this forum! Cheers, Patrice   | ||
| Easy_rider |
Oil tank filler cap popped out The oil needs to be checked when the bike is hot. It wouldn't have been the first Buell to have spewed oil from being overfilled. The good folks at Badweb have helped me from making the same mistake. I've found that my seat tab sort of worked in over time. Or maybe I've just figured out the right spot to push with my hand to get it set. I'm not familiar with the polishing kit, but Simichrome on a regular basis does the trick. Usually I use Simi when something has set for awhile and then Mother's for maintenance. Either for these wheels or because I wait too long between polishing it's always Simi now. | ||
| Blks1l |
The Banke oil filler cap is nice, it won't pop out, and you don't have to worry about trash falling in the tank, when you pull the cap. Dean | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Oil tank filler cap popped out That's the special Buell oil self-leveling device  Like E-R said....check the oil when it's hot. I also usually have mine running and as level as possible. As for PM rims....I had mine polished then clear powdercoated. After 2 years of heavy riding, they're still holding up nicely. It was worth the $$$ to never polish them again. | ||
| Iamike |
Patrice- I use Mother's polish on my PMs, about twice a year. In between polishing I use Armor All spray aluminum wheel cleaner. It doesn't cloud the finish like some cleaners do. | ||
| Duckbuell |
Howdy fellow tooobers! Well, the S3 is awsome! My wife and I are going on our first day-trip next weekend for the Harvest Classic http://harvestclassic.org/ Today I changed the motor oil with Mobil 1 20-50wt synthetic. Wow! What an improvement! The motor revved more freely and seemed smoother. I could not believe it was the same motor. The S3 is exciting, good looking and totaly unique.... um like me. I have not been this enthralled with a bike since I got my 1924 Indian running, after a long restoration. Kind of getting lots of looks from other riders too...sort of un-nerving. One non-helmet wearing jock on a Hayabusa, almost killed himself while rubber-necking the S3....ugh! Next, I need to purchase the torx-bits to undo the primary cover oil filler cover, so I can change the tranny oil. Does any one know what size I need? Can't wait to go to next weekends classic / italian bike rally. My bro on his X1 is going too. Here are some pics of our May 2006 trip in Europe. Cheers. Patrice.       | ||
| Naustin |
Torx bits are t-27, I believe. | ||
| Duckbuell |
Cool! Thanks Naustin... I thought the T-25 was too small. I did not dare take the screws out unless I have the proper size. Thank you very much! Here is a little eye candy!  | ||
| Raceautobody |
Hey Duck, Now that pix is just plain cool. Al | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Yes. Makes a sweeet windows backgrownd here at work. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Duck, A hard learned secret on the "derby hat" screws is that you want to loosen each screw 1/4 turn at a time going around several times or more. Then press inward firmly against the center and remove all four. Doing otherwise can result in jammed/broken screws and/or stripped Torx sockets. Torx wrenches turn into "Torx socket reamers" if they are not fully seated and perfectly aligned with the length of the screws and carefully used. When removing the derby cover, watch out for the spring that is sort of attached to the clutch adjusting screw locking nut, it normally rests against the inside of the cover but will occasionally try to escape to a dark corner. You sound like a guy that could use a service manual and parts book. They will pay for themselves the first time when you (if necessary) upgrade your chain adjuster, replace the old paper primary gasket with the new metal one, adjust your primary chain, adjust the clutch, change the primary oil, and reward yourself with perfect clutch action and shifting. Nice riding country, you're a lucky guy! Jack | ||
| Duckbuell |
Thank You Jack, I will be sure to follow your instructions. My S3 sat around a lot, and there is a slight corrosion on bolt heads. So anything I need to loosen will always get a shot of WD40 first! Cheers, Patrice More eye candy  | ||
| Bookyoh |
Duck: I have found that a hand impact wrench is very helpful if the derby screws are a little stubborn. I also put some anti-seize on them before reinstalling. Mark | ||
| Djkaplan |
Replace those T-27's with Allen heads and you'll never have a problem with them. HD markets the correct length bolts off the shelf in most dealerships - they can be ordered as well. |
