| Author | Message | ||
     Shea |
I bought the Econo Drummer, which still uses the stock valve. If I end up getting the race ECM down the road a little, does not having that valve controller screw up the flow to the point that I will lose horsepower? I have had the bike on the road for a week now and it doesn't seem to be stabilizing much to the stock ECM, this is why I am now considering the race ECM. | ||
| Blake |
What exactly do you mean by "it doesn't seem to be stabilizing much to the stock ECM"? | ||
| Shea |
The Buell ECMs have the ability to adjust to changes. These changes can be from altitude pressures and some other things. The Econo Drummer was designed to be just enough to add sound and performance, but it's not supposed to be too much that it needs a new ECM and the stock ECM should adjust to it. Not so sure you can answer my question if you didn't know this. I should probably call Kevin and see what he says. | ||
| M1combat |
LOL  . I think he was going for is something like "What are the symptoms?". I have a feeling Blake knows a little about the AFV  . That said... I do too... What are your symptoms? What is the bike doing that elicits the statement "Did I screw myself?"? In any case, try calling Kevin. He'll certainly answer all your questions. | ||
| Shea |
No matter what RPM range I am in, when I roll the throttle hard, it sputters first, then the power hits hard. It didn't do that before the exhaust. I notice that when the bike is hot, run for quite a while, it smooths out a bit, but doesn't seem to be getting much better. It is just bothering me that the bike was pretty smooth stock and only has 350 miles on it, so I am paranoid that I may have made a wrong decision for the bike. If I install the race ECM, the valve will no longer be functional too. So, does this mean it will stay closed and produce less Horsepower, even with the race ECM? BTW, I didn't mean to insult anyone's intellegent, I just wanted a straight forward answer. So many times people will chime in with uneducated guesses and it can become hard for me to decipher which one is educated, considerin I am not quite as educated as many others here. | ||
| Blake |
Calling Kevin would have been the best first plan. Assuming the issue is due entirely to your new muffler might be risky. Please clarify, does the bike run well everywhere except for when you aggressively roll open the throttle? Does it start and idle well when cold and when warm? Does it run well in cruise mode (little constant throttle, low rpm)? Specific diagnosis requires comprehensive detailed data. Lacking detailed data, there can be no diagnosis. Not sure anyone on planet Earth could provide any help based solely on your first question. Are you familiar with what conditions (throttle, rpm) are required to allow your ECM to adjust to the possible effects of your new muffler? Have you met those conditions? You want help, we're here to help. | ||
| Blake |
The race ECM is designed to work with the race muffler. If you install it on a bike with a stock muffler, the valve will fail to operate and you will lose performance in part of the rev range, either down low and up high or in the mid-range, I'm not sure which. Either one would be unacceptable to me. | ||
| Shea |
Blake... The bike runs terrible cold. It sputters and spits. Idle is low when cold too and even shut off on me once. The bike spits and fights when keeping the RPMs low to very low and constant too. Once the engine is good and hot, ALMOST all this goes away except for the hesitation when opening the throttle below 4000 RPMs. I only tested this a couple times because the bike is still just below being broken in. Above 4k, the hesitation is very hard to feel, but it's still slightly there. Kevin suggested I run it at 3000 RPMs to let it get used to the muffler. I have put about 80 miles on it doing this as much as possible now. Was this not enough? Again, I am just paranoid, I am not implying that quality or anything else is bad, just thought it would start clearing up by now. I tried getting to my plugs, but it seems that they are further out of reach than I thought they would be. They certainly didn't want just anyone reaching those things.  When I do take it back in for the 500 mile service, I am having the Pro Series plugs put in, so hopefully that helps a bit too. | ||
| Blake |
An intake manifold air leak would manifest similar lean running symptoms, so you may want to rule that out. Cold seasonal temperatures may also be adversely affecting the engine. If you or your dealer cannot identify an intake manifold air leak, you might try putting the bike back to stock form, at least through completion of break-in. I would also have them verify proper TPS zeroing, and ask them to report to you the value of the AFV (adaptive fuel value). I'd be concerned if the AFV is not significantly above 100%. Both cool weathere and a freer flowing exhaust should cause the AFV to elevate well above a value of 100. One more important consideration, are you running the stock air filter and intake configuration? | ||
| Shea |
Intake and filter are stock. Thanks for the help. I put on about 50 miles on the bike today and after about 10 miles of constant running, the bike started running really good. Still a slight hesitation, but now it's only happening below 3k RPMs instead of all through out. 100 more miles until break in, so that means I will have it into the shop by next week, hopefully. I talked to a service guy yesterday who said they have a good Buell mechanic and they can dyno the bike to get a look at the power range and make adjustments based on that. | ||
| Blake |
A good Buell mechanic who has access to and knows how to exploit a dynamometer is a great find. Let us know what you find. |
