| Author | Message | ||
     Andrew |
Xg, In the elusive quest to make their Hogs go louder, and perform less well. Get thee to some independent bike shops. The uppies are throwing them CV's away in droves. You might even find a deal on parts you never knew you needed  | ||
| Sarodude |
Man, I forgot about the TPS thing... I haven't taken a good look but it SEEMS like the Auto / Manual enrichener dealies might be swapable. As far as the accelerator pump, if one were to get one of those carbs for cheep / free, isn't it simple enough to block off? Couldn't one just pull out the jet and fill the hole? Use the old float bowl? It seems like the TPS might be the real hurdle. Is that the case? -Saro | ||
| Xgecko |
I can't use a "normal" CV Carb without playing with and or replacing the ignition module as the Blast CV carb provides a Throttle Position Signal to the module. One more way they try to simplify matters by making them more complex. I wouldn't mine disabling the auto enricher and returning to a Choke. But the TPS fitting is different on the Blast Carb. I may scour the Manual tonight and see it there is a way around the TPS | ||
| Sarodude |
Maybe the thing to investigate is whether or not any of the carb's aluminum body was drilled. If you just drilled a brass jet, could a donor carb sacrifice its jet? -Saro | ||
| Xgecko |
yup Saro that too the carb comes off when I get home tonight and gets taken apart. How much I destroyed as well as if it can be repaired will be determined at that time as well as tommorrow with my parts guy. I'm just looking at worst case scenarios | ||
| Xgecko |
looks like the only damage is to brass. so now I have to figure out how to get the rest of the Jet out and find a new one to put in...This I may leave to a professional....on another note what cause me to operate on my carb in the first place was the motor's inability to idle....well as I removed the Carb I saw a nice big, old crack in the rubber tube that connects the Carb to the intake manifold. So it is likely that all the work I was doing on the carb attaching my intake only made this worse  To all Blastards have the dealer check this when you get over 10,000 miles and definatly before 15,000. Oh well my other bike (the pedal one) was getting lonely. now it will get some use. | ||
| Fssnoc2501 |
Tony, I carry one of those hoses everywhere I go. After cracking two I found it a good thing to keep in the tank bag. Also looking at your pictures is your carb straight up in relation to the bike. Looks in one of the picture slightly rotated. Also when I made my carb support I made 2 with one going to both sides of the crankcase (mounted in the existing holes for the stock breadbox) it appear as you have only one wich will allow some carb rotation with knee pressure. May be something to look at to prevent future problems. Ray | ||
| Xgecko |
It figures I gotta be stupid enough to damage the only not cast piece of metal on the entire Carb that isn't replaceable. The dealer was cool about it they are going to call Harley tommorrow and see if there is anything that can be done to resurect my carb if not I've got a $350 lesson in "How to research any and all things you do to a motor well before you do them." | ||
| Sarodude |
Tony- I might have access to donor carbs... I have to pull my Blast carb and measure that teeny jet against a donor carb's jet. Maybe they're the same. That's assuming I can get that thing out in the first place... -Saro | ||
| Xgecko |
Donor carb isn't the problem (ther dealler offered two for aquiring the parts) it's the cleaning out the rest of what my drill didn't destroy and whether or not I damaged anything else brass (hard to tell in that tiny space) the area below/above the starter jet is a air/fuell transfer area. no telling what my errant drill did. Ive been trying to figure out if it would be cheaper to convert to a regular CV carb but tha would require a new Ignition module at the minimum. | ||
| Henrik |
Xgecko: maybe a pharmacy Othoscope would help you access the damage. John (?) mentioned using one for checking plugs, but it would certainly give you a better view as well. It's a handle like gadget with a small cone sticking out; light comes through the cone, which also houses a magnifier. Also used to look into peoples ears. As for going with a standard CV - who knows what kind of trouble that could get you into. Stick to the proven set-up. IMHO Henrik | ||
| Bomber |
A non-buell carb question . . . .. while watching ESPN over the weekend (no speedvision here . . . I don't miss NASCAR ) . .. . they had what they laughingly referred to as coverage of the bikes racing up Pike's Peak . . . . the elevation difference from the start line to teh finish line is many thousands of feet . . . . how do these folks jet for that . . .jet for the bottom, and run increasingly rich on the way up? jet for the top and run the risk of being way too lean at the start? somewhere in between? hmmmmm | ||
| Sarodude |
Has anyone actually measured their allegedly 40mm Keihin? I did yesterday and found it to be closer to 41mm. My terrible memory wants me to blurt 1.6" (40.64 mm) ID on the manifold end. In this world of Bigger is Better, wouldn't someone want to all it a 41mm Keihin? -Saro | ||
| Sarodude |
Uh, forgot the real reason for my post... The (my) Blast has a noticeable step between the intake manifold and the intake port with the manifold being considerably (to the eye, anyway) oversize. I wanted to match these ports up but I'm a bit stuck on how to ensure the intake stays in the right place after it's bolted up. There seems to be a fair degree of slop to facilitate installation / removal. What would be a good way to ensure that my manifold is consistently positioned WRT the intake port? -Saro | ||
| Aaron |
Mine had a terrible mismatch there, too. It's real easy to see with the intake valve removed. Use a hammer to get it out  | ||
| Blake |
Bomber, Interesting question. Fuel injection, or CV carburetors do a great job of compensating for the altitude. My guess for those running carburetors however, would be that they probably jet for the bottom and run a bit rich at the top. Lean is too dangerous to the engine to risk it. Aaron, You lost me with the 'hammer" comment. Please splain.  | ||
| Bomber |
Blake . . .that's sorta kinda what I'd figured, but, just as Groucho wouldn't belong to a club that would have him, I tend to disbelieve my thought processes . . .. thanks for the backup CV will help with that much altitude change? hmmmmm . . . . . | ||
| Blake |
Not as good as fuel injection, but pretty good. I rode from Kilgore, TX (350 ASL) to Trail Ridge Road in RMNP in CO and didn't suffer any symptoms of over-richness. | ||
| Lake_Bueller |
I wasn't sure where to put this so I'll start here..... Background: I installed a SuperTrapp pipe, Thunderslide kit, K&N filter & new jets this summer. I had the bike "sniffed" at the local dealer and everything looked good. Now for my question: after about 1500 miles, I checked the plugs. The rear plug seems to be a nice light brown color (ie correct burn temp & fuel mix). The front plug is black & sooty (ie too cool & rich). Is this typical? Is there anyway to correct the balance? Thanks for your input | ||
| Leeaw |
Maybe run the 6R12 in the front and 10R12 in the rear? | ||
| Blake |
It is definitely typical that the front cylinder runs cooler than the rear. You might try running a hotter plug in front. A stock sportster plug the 6R12 is the next hotter plug and used to be the stock plug in Buells too. The 10R12 plugs were implemented in Buells in 2000 to address concerns involving high rear cyclinder temperatures. Was you dyno sniffer run at WOT only? If so, you might also want to verify partial throttle opening A/F performance. Get the bike runnning at 50 mph in 5th gear then with slight pressure on the rear break slowing accelerate to 80 at like 1/8th throttle. The resulting A/F sniffer results will tell you how your pilot and needle are working. | ||
| Henrik |
Stock S2 Motor Jetting: I'm looking for a base line jetting for a stock S2 motor with late-model race headers, old style Supertrapp IDS muffler with 15 disks, stock (narrow) K&N filter, SE coil. Current jetting is #45 pilot with 2 1/2 turns on the idle mixture screw, #185 main jet. Stock needle (not shimmed), stock slide (not drilled). Bike ran ok with above settings with stock S2 headers and (really) old, cone style Supertrapp muffler. Would heat and ping on hot days, sitting in traffic. I'm thinking that it'll draw a bit more air with the new exhaust, so I may need to step the main jet up a notch. Thanks Henrik | ||
| Javahed |
Power commander questions...... Anyone have a proven map for a 2000 X1 with this setup? K&N filter with gutted airbox/race venturi -- stock header -- V&H slip on -- Race ECM and one of those overly expensive O2 sensors? Thanks! Dan | ||
| Chrism |
I've noticed companys selling an intake manifold for a CV 44. Did this carb come stock on any bike? Is it just an aftermarkt hype? If its not hype, has any one had experience with it? Thanks Chris | ||
| Blake |
Stock Buell carb is CV40. CV44 is warranted if your engine, via performance enhancements, is putting out over 100 RWHP. | ||
| Javahed |
OK, Here is one for ya. Was re installing the Power Commander. Took the fuel line off the fuel filter this time to get the gas tank off. Now that I've hooked everything back up the bike will crank but won't start. Fuel pump sounds "different". Like it is recieving a lot of resistance. Took everything apart again - major fuel spray from pressure build up when I took off the fuel filter this time. Replaced the fuel filter. Checked all the Power commander connections. Tried a different map, everything. Still no luck. If air got into the fuell line would that be causing the fuel not to go into the injectors? Do I need to prime the injectors somehow? Any help would be great Thanks! Dan | ||
| Javahed |
Well, in desparation I hooked everything back up stock. It starts -- must be my mapping. Oh well. Have fun! Dan | ||
| Jadow |
Any one out there have CFM numbers for Carbs? Building a motor via computer. want to match the right carb to the motor. would like to know what a CV 40, 44, Mikuni 40,42,45,48, S&S "E" & "G" CFM numbers compare. I saw DynoDaves Dual Carb setup on his new motor and got me thinking, What size did he use and how much does he need..ie CFM flowing for the heads,Displacment and HP/Torque? Thanks | ||
| Chrism |
Blake, I am hoping for more that 100rwhp. I've got a "96 S 1 that I've stuffed a set of 1340 valves into. I've also welded up the quench area and am running thinner head gaskets. Still running the stock cams though. It feels like the signal is much stronger below 4 grand and seems to be lifting the slide prematurely. I'm going to throw a bigger slow speed jet in to confirm my suspicions My question, is the CV 44 a stock carb on a bike that I might find in the junk yard? Does it possibly come on a big twin and if so I'm sure there are guys out there that have switched to S&S carbs for the added hp. Hopefullly I might be able to talk some one out of that useless lump of metal. I appreciate your getting back to me, thanks again. Chris | ||
| Mike75 |
Help! I have a stock 2000 M2 with @12000 miles on it. Recently, it has started backfiring from the carb after it gets warmed up (3-5miles) and then backfires constantly and quickly becomes unrideable. I removed the entire air cleaner, gas and oil in the snorkel arm, air filter filthy and VERY thin at the snorkel arm intake (presume the filter was replaced at the 10,000 mile service). Can anyone point me in the right direction on what to do myself? Have the service manual and some amount of intelligence, but little experience. Thanks! |
