| Author | Message | ||
     Ara |
JW: I do a little welding myself (oxy-acetelyne) and I'm wondering what "orbital welding" is. Good clean work, BTW. | ||
| F16hd |
Vitt, Very nice stuff, but it may be too tall. You can't tell from my pics, but the total height of the plug /90' fitting has to be within .200" of the total height of the stock drain plug hex in order to clear the pipe. The part in the photo was the 5th one I made (first 4 were a tad tall, and contacted pipe). The hex height of the final plug is only .150",and the 90' fitting is flush to it's top face...I was a lot of hair splitting to make it clear safely. Regards, Harry in AZ | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Harry, Ya, like I said, I was just screwing around with components I had available, without getting into actually machining a custom plug. If I measure the actual clearence from the bottom of my stock drain plug to top my V&H, I only have 1/4" to play with. For volume (larger I.D. hole) I went with the 3/8" micro 90° tube fitting (the one in the picture that had the 3/8" tube stub welded on it. The square block on the 90° elbow physically measures 7/16". That puts me into the top of the muffler 3/16" ...... oops. If I went with the 1/4 micro 90° elbow instead, I'm into the muffler 1/16". I didn't like the looks of it anyway. It has a touch more volume (I.D. hole) than the brass 90° elbow you used. Oh'well. I've thought about this quite a bit actually but I can't seem to devise anything I like. Anywho, it was a nice experiment and a good way to kill some time. <grin>  Cheers, -JW:>) | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Russ: Orbital welding ... basically it's a documentated computerized welding process (TIG). We specifically use this process in an extremely controlled (the highest quality control standards known to date) and a ultra-clean environment (class 10 or better cleanroom) in the semiconductor and bio-pharmaceutical industry. Actual weld integrity (unlike traditional welding processes, dye-check, 100% x-ray etc.) is checked with a helimum atoms (notice the word atoms) via a helimum mass spectrometer. Just a touch different that gas welding. <grin> Below is a image of the welding head for semiconductor grade electropolished tubing. The computer is not shown. The entire setup runs about $50,000 each. Cheers, -JW:>)  | ||
| Rocketman |
What strange skin you have Jim  In all this experementing, you could ignore the drain plug and drill and tap another hole in a better position. If memory serves, isn't there room behind the clutch side of the primary ? Outta sight !!!! Great concept Rocket in England | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Rocketman: Skin ... it's the Jack&Coke and Sun. As far as the drain plug thing, I think Harry's setup is clean, functional and better yet, an outstanding idea. I was just trying to copy it with the components I have available and increase the draining capicity. The fittings and tubing I used are all rejects (failed QC) ...... just trying to find a use for them. Cheers, -JW:>) | ||
| Rocketman |
Oh shit Jim, it must have been more early morning tired eyes. I could have sworn you were wearing latex gloves Yeah, it's a great idea. I like the instant, no messing, drop the black(red) stuff without removing the muffler or syphoning through the clutch inspection plate. I'd prefer it out of sight though and with a PCL type connect on the end of the tube, so you just plug in to drain the tranny. Rocket in England | ||
| Ara |
JW: I'll have to save my milk money for a while before I can get one of those orbital welders! | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Ara: You'll have to start saving your lunch money too, cuz I didn't include the jumper, magnehelic, Argon purifier, a Argon dewar and last but not least a power supply line-tamer. Cheers, -JW:>) | ||
| Henrik |
Harry; I'll need one of those drain thingies when I take things apart in about a month or so - will you have them ready for sale by then :-)) Henrik | ||
| F16hd |
Henrik: email me when your ready... I'm trying to make up a few...along with the shifters ;-) Harry | ||
| Kahuna |
Has anyone used the dealer to put in the new beefier tensioner? What was the total cost (parts & labour)? I wish I was better with wreches :-( Many thanks! | ||
| Mrossi |
I need to order on-line a primary cover gasket and a crank seal, since I want to change the primary tensioner on my '00 X-1 and I need their part nos. Can anyone out there give me some help ? Thanks in advance M. Rossi | ||
| Blake |
Try emailing your request to sales@sporttwin.com or sales@americansportbike.com . | ||
| Jerome |
A follow-up on the problem described last week on the general discussion board : the symptoms were a sudden difficulty to shift from 2nd to 3rd gear, a stiff clutch and weird noise when moving the bike with the engine stopped and the clutch depressed with a speed engaged. Most of you said that I was probably experiencing a broken primary chain tensioner. As my 00 M2 was built in spring 2000, I was unsure that it was equipped with the beefier tensioner. So I bought a new one even before checking how things were inside the primary case. This weekend I finally found a few minutes to open it up... Surprise : I found a tensioner in perfect shape and it was the beefier version already !!! No sign of wear anywhere in the case. I had to come to the conclusion that my single problem was a too loose primary chain. I adjusted it within factory spec, reinstalled everything, and back again I have a perfectly running Buell !!! So if it is still needed, I recommend to check regularly the primary chain tension. Mine had been service only 1500 miles before but it clearly was in need of an adjustment. Still, I didn't expect that a loose chain would generate such symptoms... | ||
| Reepicheep |
Thanks for the followup Jerome... I guess it makes perfect sense, when the backplate for the older tensioners breaks, what results is an extremely out of adjustment primary chain, which results in the exact same symptoms. Even knowing what I know now, even if I knew for a fact that you had the newer tensioner and had just had a service adjustment 1500 miles ago, I STILL would have recommended you pull the primary cover and check the tensioner, just for piece of mind. It's an easy job, and an even easier fix, if you catch it before bits get sucked into the tranny. I do wonder what happened though. Maybe the previous adjustment got missed or somebody read the wrong adjustment spec, or maybe the bolt crept a little when they were tightening down the nut, or maybe the nut did not get tightened down all the way. I just did this adjustment myself this weekend, and while it is simple on paper there are plenty of chances to make a simple little mistake and end up with it out of adjustment. Glad it was an easy one! Welcome to the "internally groovy primary cover club!" Bill | ||
| Henrik |
I've found 1000 miles a good interval for checking primary chain tension. It always need a little tweak. I guess the Buell way of riding puts a bit more stress on the chain Henrik | ||
| Sportyeric |
Mike. I saw your post about the loose ring gear from Jan 6. Surprised you got no response. Here's mine: The ring gear isn't supposed to move. Sounds like you're a hair from spinning the ring gear without turning the clutch hub (and therefore the engine). That happened on my bike after I did the 1200 conversion because I thought it would be clever to start it by hitting the button once quickly then wait for the pressure to bleed off then hit the button agian. Saved battery and starter strain, I thought. My budget solution: remove clutch basket, grind three grooves, 1" long,1/4" wide, at junction between ringgear and hub (at 90degrees to hubradius). Weld grooves in. Grind smooth. Pull clutch plates to clean out grinder material from clutch pack. Big pain in the ass but way cheaper than replacing the hub. They're about $800. Although I would think that you should still get warranty coverage on yours. Sportyeric | ||
| Hans |
Hi Jerome, Your follow up message was awaited with much interest, as I remembered that somebody, and it became clear later that it has been Reepicheep, had almost exact the same experiences with also the stiffer clutch. Your signs were even more alarming while you had even, probably, the new plate. The long silence since made me afraid for much worse things. Good to hear that our faith in the strenght of the gearbox is unscratched. The bad shifting becomes so slowly worse that the left foot keeps up in becoming smarter to find the neutral. After adjusting you praise the butter smooth shifting again. I don`t understand why such small adjustments can make a world of difference. Yeah, what Henrik said: 1000 miles or 1500 km seems me good short interval. Hans. | ||
| Jerome |
Bill and Hans : maybe the loose chain is linked to the tendancy of the teflon part of the tensioner to get grooved by the chain in its early life, thus resulting in abnormaly fast increase in free-play. When the grooves are made, the chain sits on the teflon on a much larger area, and the wear probably goes down. Hans you're much correct about how fast one gets used to a stiffer gearing... Now I find it so smooth, I can't believe it's the same bike and same gearbox ! I just hope that in the mean time, the forks didn't get damaged... | ||
| Bcmike |
Sportyeric, Strange that the dealer didn't notice the sloppy ring gear when he tightened the loose crank sprocket nut? That's probably what has caused the damn vibration all along. I took the bike back. They pulled the motor and stripped it down figuring the flywheels were fkd. Said they have slipped on the shaft, possibly caused by a tight spot in the primary chain. A new crankshaft assembly and primary chain are (back)ordered. I better tell them to check the loose ring gear too! Maybe that's what has damaged the crank. What a mess. | ||
| Sportyeric |
Cross-pollenation from the XL-list. Somebody with a 1990 Sporty tells me of the same thing, but without having used my stupid starting procedure. wonder how common that is? (One bike every ten years would be OK.) | ||
| Skulley |
Kahuna, a dealer will be about $65hr. Parts will be about $35. expect two months befor they get the parts you need and a few weeks for your schedualed appointment slot. if they are like the dealer here they will screw arround on your bike and wreck it, like they did a friends S-1, during a road test. If your near Houston Tx. Ill do the labor for you free. I have already done mine. | ||
| Kahuna |
Cheers Skulley! That's very kind of you ... But I'm all the way up in Toronto! I've just got the service manual and may attempt it myself. I also found some instructions on the X-1 files. Wish me luck! -Rob | ||
| Henrik |
Preparation and tool selection: Those who know me, will tell you that I'm fairly organized - I like to plan ahead and be prepared. Some would use less flattering terms So in preparation for my "primary adventure" I'd gone through the Service Manual, ordered and received all new and replacement parts. I'd gotten advice from you guys and bought impact sockets to pull both clutch and engine sprocket. So ... today is the big day - primary drained and cover removed, happy and armed with my electrical impact wrench I'm about to pull the primary drive - only to realize that the walls of my impact sockets are too thick to fit within the confines of sprocket and clutch  , so disassembly is a no go today. The sockets are a cheap set from a mail order place - I figured I could get a whole set for the same price as *one* Snap-on socket. Just a heads up - sometimes you gotta bite the bullet and buy the right tool for the job. Btw. what are you guys using to keep the primary from spinning when you impact these tight nuts off? I was thinking either a 2x4 through the rear wheel, or a piece of 1/4 x 2" steel strap cut and shaped to wedge between the teeth of sprocket and clutch hub? Henrik (it's the 4th project that's been held up or cancelled because of annoying little hang-ups  ) | ||
| Peter |
Henrik, Don't use steel, use a piece of aluminium (not aluminum, it won't work as well....) between the teeth. PPiA | ||
| Ocbueller |
Henrik, Glad to see your front rotor experience hasn't turned you off to further adventures in mechanical mysteries. Your enthusiasm and willingness to jump into the unknown dark recesses of these bikes often inspires me and I hope others as well. Those cheap tools have their place but the quality of a Snap On piece is hard to match. You will add to your tool collection until the day you die and still not have that one elusive tool you need to finish the job on hand. Keep us posted. SteveH | ||
| Ara |
Peter - While Henrik has his teeth clamped on a piece of aluminium (I sometimes get nervous working on my bike, too, but I like wood better than metal  ), what should he use to keep the gears from turning?  I read elsewhere that an old towel works well. ("You have to know where your towel is, man!"  Never mind me. I'm zonked and I'm going to bed. Russ | ||
| Henrik |
Steve: thanks for the encouraging words - right now I can use all the support I can get  I've spent a fortune in tool over the last years already and am slowly learning where I can get away with "ok" quality vs. top-of-the-line. But you're right - the shopping will never stop So far this winter I've: 1) replaced the steering head bearings - it was interesting, especially getting the bottom bearing off of the steering stem. Heat and chisels were necessary. Not impossible, just took more time than I'd imagined. 2) change fork oil: found one of the damper rods not sliding so well - pulled it out and found clamp marks on the outer part of the rod from someones previous rebuild - that kept the fork from using the last 1 1/2" of travel. Buell doesn't even have a part # for the damper rod. 3) replacing the front rotor ... you all know that story. 4) find solution for kickstand. Wanted to try the CBR929 option, but found that it required more fabricating than I'm currently capable of. 5) the whole primary/tranny project ... you know about that as well. 6) fitting the factory saddlebag bracket on the S2 - will allow me to use S3 bags on the S2. Unfortunately the turn signal solution in that kit is pretty sub-standard and I'll need to come up with something else. At this time I'm happy I didn't go ahead and pull the motor apart for hop-up as well  I'm still having fun with it though (most of the time at least), just need to get everything back together before riding season is truly here. Russ: the towels sound like an easy and straight forward way to go. Thanks. Henrik | ||
| Henrik |
Main shaft seal (?) leaking: I've got the primary drive out (the towel worked fine btw. ) and came back to the bike this morning and found motor oil slowly drooling from around the main shaft (I think it is): the shaft holding the engine sprocket. I can't tell if the oil is coming out around the main shaft or from the edge of what I believe is the seal. I know that this seal has a reputation for leaking. But is it to be expected that it would leak a bit when the engine sprocket is not on and torqued down - or should that not make a difference? Henrik |
