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Waldo38
| Posted on Thursday, March 17, 2005 - 10:19 pm: |
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Hello to eveyone.I need help again. I was out riding the other day and the bike ran great.Took bike out yesterday and it runs like crap.Back cylinder seems to be cutting out. Check plug.Took carb off.Everything looks good. Whats up? |
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Djkaplan
| Posted on Friday, March 18, 2005 - 07:49 am: |
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Did you confirm that you were getting a spark when you checked the plug? |
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Waldo38
| Posted on Friday, March 18, 2005 - 07:55 am: |
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Yes it has spark. If I take that plug wire off it won't even start. |
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Hodakaguy
| Posted on Friday, March 18, 2005 - 07:56 am: |
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I had the same problem happen to me on the rear cylinder of my S1. Ended up that the nut fell off on the primary lead going to the coil for the rear cylinder. The wire was still touching the coil so the cylinder would still get spark but it was erratic and missing on that jug. I installed two new nuts and lock washers on the coil and it was back to its old self. Worth checking as its an easy fix. Hodakaguy |
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Waldo38
| Posted on Friday, March 18, 2005 - 11:00 am: |
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So far everything looks good.Why would the thing just crap out? |
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Waldo38
| Posted on Friday, March 18, 2005 - 09:25 pm: |
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Check plug wire to rear cylinder.How can I check the coil? What else could cause the rear cylinder to go dead. |
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Firemanjim
| Posted on Friday, March 18, 2005 - 11:49 pm: |
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Check compression?Put in new plug just because.Does it run better with choke/enrichner on? |
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Captainkirk
| Posted on Sunday, March 20, 2005 - 12:31 am: |
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I'd suspect ignition problem first. Try a new plug and wire. You can check for spark simply by grounding a spark plug to the rear cylinder lead while running the engine. Yeah, it will run like crap, but you should be able to run it long enough to see if the plug is firing consistently. If that checks OK, I'd suspect intake manifold seal or valve not sealing. The valve you can check with a simple cylinder leakdown check, the manifold leak by spraying some WD40 around it while idling. If the idle speed increases, there's your trouble. |
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Azbueller
| Posted on Sunday, March 20, 2005 - 11:57 am: |
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I had the same problem when I was test riding a trade in M2 when I worked at a Buell dealership, turned out to be the wiring that out of the timing cover. Follow it up to the connector, one of the wires was broke there and was not sending signal to the coil. |
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Waldo38
| Posted on Sunday, March 20, 2005 - 08:50 pm: |
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Had the bike running today but doesn't want to stay running. This bike has a hypercharger and aftermarket pipes maybe does not have right jets.Any ideas what jets I should run.It has a stock CV Carb.I don't know what else to look at.Maybe timing off.What do you all think. |
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Hodakaguy
| Posted on Sunday, March 20, 2005 - 10:55 pm: |
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The two nuts that hold the primary wires onto the coil are on the back side of the coil. If you look up under the tank, behind where the plug wires attach to the coil you will see two small wires going to the coil with two small nuts holding them on. Make sure these two nuts are tight, mine was missing the back nut all together. Hodakaguy. |
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Captainkirk
| Posted on Monday, March 21, 2005 - 11:54 pm: |
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Wouldn't be a carb problem or both cyl's would have the same symptoms |
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Drfuyutsuki
| Posted on Tuesday, March 22, 2005 - 06:04 pm: |
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Just had a similar problem with my S1 in my case the ignition coil had fried. If you have a multimeter you can check the coil, not sure what part # your bike runs but on mine there should only be 3 ohms between the primary contacts (small electrical wire connections) and between 10,000 and 12,000 between the secondary's (where the spark plug wires connect). |