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Bob_thompson
Posted on Thursday, June 10, 2004 - 12:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Did the research in the knowledge vault and ready to do the drive belt installation on my M2 using the "pull the swingarm method" but one question for you who have used this method. Does the mount block come off with the swingarm together as a unit and reassemble the same way? Thanks much, Bob T.
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Crusty
Posted on Thursday, June 10, 2004 - 08:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yes, it does. I've done it twice now; once on my S3, and once on my M2. No matter which way you do it, it's a pain in the butt, but I prefer pulling the swingarm to lifting the frame. I've decided to convert to chain drive. Baker (the transmission people) has a conversion kit that includes a roller that keeps the chain from rubbing on the swingarm. Then I won't have to worry about riding down gravel roads, or having a trip ruined because the belt snapped without warning while cruising down the Interstate at 65 MPH.
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Blackbelt
Posted on Thursday, June 10, 2004 - 08:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

what is the average life span of a drive belt? just a quick pro-qo
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Bob_thompson
Posted on Thursday, June 10, 2004 - 12:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Crusty, thanks much for the input. Whats the price for the Baker conversion and whos got 'em? Bob T.
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Bob_thompson
Posted on Thursday, June 10, 2004 - 02:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Crusty, also, what size Torx by number is the isolator cap screw and is it standard or metric? Thanks again for all your help. Bob T.
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Awprior
Posted on Thursday, June 10, 2004 - 03:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Bob,
Al at American Sport Bike has the chain conversion kits. They run $339.95.

As for the torx... I believe it's an inch.
Alex

edited by awprior on June 10, 2004
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Bomber
Posted on Thursday, June 10, 2004 - 03:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Bob

two things . . .thing the first, I believe the tTorx is a number 60

and, what's all this about your being my uncle?
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Bob_thompson
Posted on Thursday, June 10, 2004 - 05:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Bomber, thanks for the Torx number and being a native Chicagoan I'm uncle to all my hot rod and biker friends I left behind. Thanks, Bob T.
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Bomber
Posted on Thursday, June 10, 2004 - 05:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

you are very wlcome, sir . . . . ride safe out there!
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Crusty
Posted on Thursday, June 10, 2004 - 09:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Bob, sorry it's taken me so long to respond, but this is the first chance I've had to look at your response to my post. However, both your questions have been answered, so all's O.K.
Blackbelt, that question is very hard to answer. Some people have belts with 100,000 miles on them. My longest lived belt lasted 43,000 and my shortest, 15,000.Between my FLHS Harley and my 2 Buells, I replaced 6 belts. Two had stones that got caught between the belt and sprocket and caused the belt to break, two broke without warning and without obvious contributing damage (like stone holes) and one pulled the teeth off the belt while cruising down the Pennsylvania Turnpike at 70 MPH.(that was the 43K belt) I'm not a big fan of belts. They give no indication that they're near the end of their service life until they fail, they are very fragile and easily damaged and they're a pain to replace if you own an M2 or S3.
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Bob_thompson
Posted on Thursday, June 10, 2004 - 10:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Crusty, do you like Bakers or Am. Sport Bike kits? Any differences you know of? Do they both come with chains also? If I went the chain conversion route can I assume I will not have to pull the swingarm and engine bracket to install the kit? I'm ready for that now but contemplating what to do. Thanks much, Bob
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Crusty
Posted on Thursday, June 10, 2004 - 10:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Bob, I haven't tried the Baker kit, but I'm leaning toward it for my M2. The Baker kit comes with the roller that keeps the chain from rubbing on aluminum swing arms. If I had an earlier, steel swing arm, I'd just get the sprockets, spacers and seal for a '91 Sportster. A friend of mine who owns a repair shop converted his '97 S3 to chain a couple of years ago, and is pretty happy with it. I was going to put a steel swing arm on my 2000 M2, but with the Baker kit, I won't have to. Supposedly. This is what I've been led to believe, but I haven't done it yet so I can't verify it. In another few weeks, I'll be able to share my experience.
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Bob_thompson
Posted on Thursday, June 10, 2004 - 11:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks, Crusty, I believe we'll share experiences.In many years of biking I've always had chain drives and on some very high H.P. bikes. Maybe I'm jumping to an early conclusion (6000 miles) but one little rock is too many. Bob
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Newfie_buell
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2004 - 12:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The hell with the Belts,

My first one was 19,000km and showed signs of where it was pulled apart in several sections, the second belt was around 23,000km and there was a small hole where a rock went through then the belt snapped

I have since went to chain - no conversion kit just some 91 Sportster, older Big Twin Sprockets and a good o-ring 530 chain. 20,000km later and its still going strong.

When I replaced the belt and isolators I did remove the frame from the engine assembly
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Bomber
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2004 - 10:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

many have preached doom and gloom regarding the lack of a cushioning device in the rear wheel hub . . . claims include shortened output shaft bearing life, scabbies and the onset nuclear winter

any long time chain runners care to comment? Newf?
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Crusty
Posted on Friday, June 11, 2004 - 07:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I converted my FLHS to chain drive when it had 98,000 miles on it. When I sold the bike it was showing 125,000 miles. I had no drivetrain problems during that 27,000 miles. No bearing failures, nor problems of any sort; and that's on a transmission that was well worn before the conversion. Of course, the Dresser didn't make as much power as my Buell, but I rode it year round in the Greater Boston area over some of the worst paved streets anywhere. I really don't think there's any real basis for the doom and gloom scenario. Ask me again in another 50,000 miles and I'll be able to give you a more experienced report.
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Bob_thompson
Posted on Saturday, June 12, 2004 - 05:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Looks like the chain drive kits from Baker and Am. Sport Bike use the 23 tooth countershaft sprocket. Anybody know where I can find a 24 or larger one. Waiting to hear back from Baker. Bob
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