| Author | Message | ||
     The_x_man |
Who can tell me more about the 2 Diodes in the electrical system of my 2002 X1. What are they exactly for? Do they ever fail ? And what happens if one or both do ? | ||
| 99x1 |
The diode circuit is sort of a logic circuit - if the neutral switch is closed "or" if the clutch switch is closed (in) "and" the sidestand is up (closed)- the bike will run. AFAIK, they should rarely fail. If diode 1 is shorted, the neutral indicator would come on when the clutch was pulled in. If the other diode was shorted, the bike would start with the sidestand up, while in gear with the clutch out. If diode 1 opens, the bike wouldn't start without using the clutch (like an open neutral switch), and if diode 2 was open the bike wouldn't start without the clutch in and the sidestand up. | ||
| 99x1 |
The attached diagram (probably) explains it better. The diodes only allow current to flow in the direction of the arrow on them - therefore the clutch switch (C) in - doesn't turn on the neutral indicator (N). The other diode allows the sidestand switch to let the bike run, but not effect the start circuit. It can also be seen why the clutch in will start and run the bike, but will quit if the sidestand is down (open) and the clutch is let out (opened).  | ||
| Cyclonemick |
Sometimes my 00M2 will start without pulling in the clutch and sometimes it won't  | ||
| 99x1 |
The clutch switch (and the front brake switch) are not sealed and (IMHO) are kinda low quality. The clutch switch can be removed and taken apart (spread the tabs) - if it is separating, (krazy) glue the seams together. Clean the contacts and take all grunge out. You may have to shorten the plunger (file the end slightly) to make it activate with less travel of the lever. Lift up on the clutch lever while it is pulled in, and if it then works - the opening for the plunger in the switch maybe is worn too big. I think the same switch is used on a lot of Kawasaki bikes... |
