| Author | Message | ||
     Wceviper |
I lost the 2 header nuts on my front header over sunday while riding, I had only checked them once since I put the race header on. So I called up a buddy who had some header nuts, he explained why they where special and about the crimped nut helping it stay on. Since the X1 has a modified sporty engine, you would think the sporty head nuts would work, but they didnt. I could get the new nut on there, and turn it about 1 turn by hand, then I got the socket wrench out and could go about half turn to where it was really hard to turn so I didnt continue. After pulling the nut off the rear header I noticed the threads looked a little finer, and the factory nuts did not have the crimped nut. I have not verified they are 2 different nuts from sporty to buell, can anyone? I am gonna stop my the dealer and ask them this evening after work. I guess the sporty engine parts aren't all the same for common nuts/bolts. | ||
| Spiderman |
The sporty an Buell run 5/16 fine thread flange nuts. Do not use the crimp nuts. Just find above sized nut, make sur eit is flanged, then proceed to tighten on a cold motor. Run bike up to operatin temp with a few hooliganistic activities. get her back into the garage and snug down the header nuts again. I ahve never lost a nut doin it this way. | ||
| Kevyn |
Header nuts have a fine 'pitch' if that's the correct term...PIA! Carry spares. Lost one cruising through the forest, lucked out totally when a complete stranger pulls out a box of assorted nuts and bolts and he had 1. Header nuts are routine pre-ride check point!! Dang, I'll check the header nuts before I check the turn signals!! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Mine stopped shedding nuts when I updated the front exhaust header to the newer better inverted Y part. You REALLY don't want to end up shearing off one of those header studs. | ||
| Cu_chulann |
Why not.That is why do I not want to shear a header stud. | ||
| Reepicheep |
See the other thread going on here... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/55888.html?1083009719 I was lucky, I did not have to pull the head and take it to a machine shop. I did break the easy off head in the sheared bolt though, and spent countless hours, multiple diamond coated dremel bits, and a lot of fear and trepidation getting the old stud out. My kludge held, but it is with great fear that I ever remove or tighten the nut on that stud. In short, it would be easy to trash a head doing the repair. | ||
| Cu_chulann |
Reepicheep Just testing.I had what appears to be a text book case.Fitted Wyleco slip on,soon after front stud timing side sheared flush.Being a smart ass I drilled a guide hole and set to it with an easy out. Ting..cold sweat and puke,you know the story.Tool steel stuck tight.A local engineering shop said I would have to take the head off bring it round and they could spark it out.To cut it short I got a carbide drill bit 6.5mm.Surprisingly it cut into the whole mess really well.6.5mm one shot no guide hole.That was 9000 miles ago,so far so good.P.S had to retap thread of course.The whole job took less than 2 hours. |
