| Author | Message | ||
     Midnightrider |
I swear I saw a link for an off-the shelf delay thingee on here within the last week but I can't find it again. I'd like to get one for use with the HIDs I installed on the Uly. Anyone know where its hiding? Thanks | ||
| Midnightrider |
found it http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/444203.html?1237318902 | ||
| Vortec57 |
I just wired my low beam to my tail light. It stays on from the time the key is turned until its off, unlike the headlight on and off for the start then back on. | ||
| Corporatemonkey |
It stays on from the time the key is turned until its off, unlike the headlight on and off for the start then back on. If you are running HID (your profile doesn't say) then you are doing worse harm then just letting them flash... When the starter kicks the ballast attempts to make up for the lost voltage with extra current. You end up starving the ballast which is a major no-no. | ||
| Vortec57 |
Yeah, i'm running HID. never thought it was more damage than letting it flash. talk on the board before was that it was a good idea. Oh well, 1 year so far and going good. if it goes out i'll let ya all know | ||
| Corporatemonkey |
The reason the factory cuts out the headlights during startup is to provide the maximum amount of current to the starter. Motorcycle batteries do not have enough current capacity to properly power everything during startup. Even a lot of cars cut out HID headlight during startup. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Mine doesn't. Once the capsules are ignited, the power draw is less than halogen bulbs. | ||
| Corporatemonkey |
Yes the draw is less than halogen. But you have to think of the ballasts as audio amplifiers. The ignitors are what zap the light to life, the ballast keep them alive. Ballasts are required to produce x voltage from y/z voltage/amperage. When you fire the starter almost all the current is stolen by the starter motor. The ballast are then attempting to maintain x voltage even though y/z volt/amp is now very low. It can cause all sorts of issues. This is no different than in your house. If you have a black out your power just goes out. If you have a brown out stuff starts puffing out smoke.  | ||
| Corporatemonkey |
For those of you who have dual HID setups, just use the low beam wiring as your trigger point. Then when you start the bike just flip it to the high beam to kill the lights. Once the bike settles in a stable idle switch back to the low beam to turn on both lamps. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I guess what I look at is that in reality the ballasts are cheap. I don't worry about them that much. I've had my current set up for three years without issue. I wish as much concern had gone into the charging system as some put into the HID systems. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Considering the $15 cost, and the extremely simple wiring adjustment, I thought it was more than worth it to add the timer... Seeing as how without it you are cutting you ballast life literally in half. (turning the bulb on twice every time). Plus there's the added benefit of providing the most juice possible to the starter when you hit that button. (My starter spins noticeably faster now with the headlight not coming on till afterwords) |
