| Author | Message | ||
     Thumper74 |
I bought a nice 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4wd Sport yesterday for a grate price. That 5.2 Magnum EASILY turns the tires into smoke... My plan is to make a motorcycle/household hauler and occassionally off-roading. My initial plans are: - Get rid of the vacuum disconnect and do a lockable hub conversion. - Quick disconnect sway bars. - Flowmaster - K&N drop in when the stock needs replaced. - Rear locker (clutches are worn in this one) - 3.92 gears to offset the 33" tires. Since it's the sport, it already sits pretty high and has a D44 in the front with a corporate 9.25 in the back, so it's pretty beefy If you had to build a bulletproof transmission for a 98 Ram 1500, what would you do to it? I have the knowledge and tools, but I've only ever operated on a C4/AOD. | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
I have no trans advise but Get rid of the vacuum disconnect and do a lockable hub conversion. Why? I love the vaccum dissconnect on mine. Its durable and reliable. 242K and counting.} | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I love the 318! Too bad they don't make them anymore. What's a vacuum disconnect? | ||
| Ratbuell |
The weak point in the trans has always been cooling. Add a cooler, even if the truck has a stock one built into the rad. Add it inline - trans to stock cooler, stock cooler to add-on cooler, add-on cooler back to trans. Get a trans temp gauge if you're doing serious hauling. ATI and many others offer upgraded/performance valvebodies - increased line pressures, recalibrated shift points, etc. On our Cummins (2005), I *always* put it in tow/haul mode around town so it doesn't slip the clutches as much between gears (noticable difference on the trans temp gauge). On the highway, I use regular mode. Not sure on a '98, but on our '05, tow/haul doesn't lock out OD, it just makes the shifts firmer and quicker (it oughta be labeled "sport" mode, IMO). For my money - don't mess with the front axle unless it breaks. On-the-fly shifting is nice, and especially if you're only planning "occasional" off-roading...leave it be. It works great. Worst case, if you absolutely *have* to mess with it, change the actuator from vacuum to cable, and leave the hubs alone. | ||
| Limitedx1 |
put a chevy tranny in it.....or an nv4500 manual!!!! im not a dodge guy, but i know dodges get three trannies swapped to every 1 chevy or ford..... | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
If it's later than a 727, I've no idea. I love 727s it's been one of my Mopar buying criteria for many years, & I haven't had to touch one yet except for the odd seal here & there. | ||
| Fast1075 |
Can you identify what model the transmission is?? The rear locker is a good idea...the PowerTrax No-Slip is a good choice or an Aussie Locker if they have one for your app. The front axle is a low pinion 44...the weakest link is in the axle U-joints...followed the the ring and pinion. I don't know about conversion hub kits for that axle...I'm a Jeep guy  ...but it should be ok with auto trans on a light duty offroad truck with 33" tires unless you try rock crawling or really hammer it...a good reliable source for parts and information is "Randy's Ring & Pinion" they are on the net...in any case, unless you are doing your OWN axle work, be VERY careful who you have do it...it is very easy to trash an axle from poor setup... | ||
| Thumper74 |
I do all my own axle work. My first job out of highschool was a driveline shop, differentials (nothing makes me more nervous than drilling through a Land Rover diff case to install an air line...), custom driveshafts, etc. I thought about the cable actuation, but for not much more I can replace the right axle (the side with the disconnect) with a solid inner axle and install locking hubs. Fast, I'm a Jeep guy too, but needed something to haul stuff with too and I couldn't find a decent bodied Comanche. My old Jeep. Detroit locker in back, 4.10 front and rear, SYE eliminater, 4" lift, 33" Mud terrains, rock rails, front and rear heavy ass bumpers, got rid of vacuum disconnect with locking hub conversion(after pic was taken), adjustable track bar, etc.  | ||
| Buellinachinashop |
If you're gonna own a MOPAR product do yourself a favor and do two things. 1) Buy a tranny cooler. 2) Change tranny fluid often. I'm on my second V8 Dakota and notice a huge difference in transmission performance when changing fluid. | ||
| Fast1075 |
Sharp XJ there Thumper...I have an XJ and two MJ's at this point...the XJ is my mud truck...one of the MJ's is an eventual project truck, the other is my Daily Driver..it has an 8.8 ford axle w/Aussie, 4.88 gears...front D-30 with warn hubs, alloy everything and a Detroit Locker...auto, 4.5 stroker...it is an Eliminator model with power everything, cruise, tilt, A/C ....I run 12.5/35 ProComp extreme MT's....it is a wicked bad little truck if I say so myself I Love those ol trucks...I am always on the lookout for them...but I haven't seen a decent one for sale on a couple of years now...If they still built 'em...I would have a new one for sure...they are like the the Bantham weight boxers....they punch way outside their class.. | ||
| Boltrider |
Thumper - look into a Mag-Hytec transmission pan for it. The pans are pricey, but they have a deeper sump for more fluid and cooling capacity. And they look cool! http://www.mag-hytec.com/ | ||
| Nukeblue |
does it have 42re or 46re? (Message edited by nuke-blue on March 18, 2009) | ||
| Thumper74 |
I believe the 46re is the new Hemi equipped trucks... I'm almost positive it's the 42re trans | ||
| Mr_grumpy |
Ask here, lot's of useful info just for the reading too. http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/index.php | ||
| Nukeblue |
the 46 is basicly the 727 with overdrive & the 42 is the 904 with overdrive. both with electronic solenoids, the "e" is for electronic. the hemi use the 545rfe or 45rfe. easy way to know is if the trans pan has what i call a "kick out" in the pan gasket design. or is it pretty much in a square. the kick-out design is the 46. let me know & i'll ask my tranny guy what he recommends. he builds race trannys too | ||
| Thumper74 |
Sweet! I had read that there are updated planetaries and some people are going to the point of cryogenically treating the components. A couple of the major concerns that I've noticed are: - anti-drain back ball for convertor either allows the fluid to drain back or stops moving all together starving the circuits after the convertor of fluid... - heat - planetaries I'd like to address these issues, install a shift kit, lower OD if possible, and performance frictions. I'm open to suggests from people who are familiar with them, however. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I did a 727 in an old bracket car years ago. 4400# Satellite wagon with a 360 and the 727 converted to reverse-manual valvebody, 2400 stall (mild) converter, performance bands, clutches and steels and a big ol' cooler out front (larger than some A/C condensors I've seen). Car, with full interior and glass, ran high 12s/low13s on street tires with a 3.23 rear, and we drove it from Maryland to Key West on multiple occasions that way. 22mpg or so, IIRC. Street driven car, the shifting was ...well, "abrupt" is an appropriate term for it... but it never missed a beat nor did it cook fluid, even with 1.90 short times. |
