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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Quick Board Archives » Archive through December 17, 2008 » Bike tie downs/ hauling tips and types. » Archive through December 09, 2008 « Previous Next »

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Rpm4x4
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 12:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I dont normally haul my bike anywhere but I am planning on doing some traveling this winter so I can ride. I also haul a 40 foot gooseneck when i go 4wheeling and I would like to make a mount to bring the bike on some of these trips as well. I thought before I went out and spent money prepping for this Id see that others are doing. Detail and where you bought what are very welcome!
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Ulywife
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 12:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Regardless of what type of trailer you use, I recommend spending money on GOOD tie downs. After a mishap a year or so ago, we now make sure we have thick straps that have a full curve down on the hooks. We also make sure that the straps are thick, as the thin ones tend to loosen up while riding down the road.

We've also invested in soft straps for each bike that we haul.

It never hurts to have extra straps, as you never know if you'll end up bringing an extra bike home with you or have a friend in need.
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Pepperk496
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 01:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Soft straps on the triple trees. Forks need about 2.5"-3.0" of compression. High quality ratchet straps are a must. The cheep wal mart versions are cool for short trips but beware they tend to loose their effectiveness fairly quickly. And if you are trailering when really cold, make sure your ratchets have rubber handles / coating. Trying to load or unload with exposed steel in -20 degree weather does not feel good!


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Spiderman
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 01:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

To add to Ulywife's post, get rachet straps! The pull strpas actully say on the package to stop and re tighten every 30 miles (the last ones I checked)
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Krassh
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 01:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Condor Wheel Chock and then you only need 2 straps from the rear going forward to strap the bike down.

Best money I every spent. Worked great in the back of my toy hauler, plus works great in the garage as the bikes stand up resulting in more room instead of leaned over.

(Message edited by krassh on December 07, 2008)
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Krassh
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 01:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)





Not my bike, I do not have any pics of my bikes tied down.

Another benefit of the Condor Chock is when you get it cinched down the suspension is not compressed as much as in a traditional 4 point method while in my opinion being more secure and stable.

(Message edited by krassh on December 07, 2008)
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Ulywife
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 01:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

in a traditional 4 point method

We also like the 4 tie downs. It's what kept Brankin's S2 on our trailer when a strap let go. It was a long ride home from MBIV.

As for ratchet versus pull straps, we use the pull straps and have not had any problems once we ditched the lesser straps. Of course, it's always wise to check your straps 30-50 miles into your trip and at every gas/food stop.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 01:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Get the Canyon dancers, which are the soft straps thatgo over your triple tree and around your grips, at Cyclegear. Then definitely get the ratcheting tie downs as they work better than the pull type tie downs--I have used both. YOu can get em tighter and they stay tight. The cheap Walmart tie downs seem to work fine. I have never had any issue with them, even driving thru some tough roads too fast.

I use 4 tie down points--the two up front on the Canyon Dancers and the two passenger peg brackets in the back.

Compressing your suspension about halfway is a good rule of thumb....and contrary to what many believe, it is not damaging to compress your suspension.
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Ducxl
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 02:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I like the Condor chock.I have two Baxley sportchocks made out of Alabama by some fine folks.Swear by them.

Any quality chock is a must
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86129squids
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 02:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Cam-buckle (non-ratcheting) straps are my favorites- don't buy any cheapo's. The ratcheting types are too mechanically complex, and it's possible to overtorque them. If they "pop", they can hurtcha.

Ancra brand or Hog Ties are the best. If they are another brand, look at the stitching where the hooks are sewn in.
(The cheap ones look like they've been sewn by crosseyed chinese child laborers.)

Cam-buckles hold plenty good, just as good as ratchets.

2cents to ya.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 03:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

How do those that advocate the non-ratcheting tie downs get the suspension to compress? Can you "pull" it hard enough? As far as the over-tightening on the ratcheting version, I have to say that isn't much of a concern, as all you have to do is look at the fork. You can see exactly how much it is compressing and STOP when you get about half compressed. Easy.
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 03:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Baxley Chocks are the way to go. Best for the money.
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Ulywife
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 03:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Fresno - we just have someone push down on the suspension while someone else pulls the straps tight. We always make sure we're pulling down versus up. We tighten about 3/4 on one side then 3/4 on the other and then go back for the remaining 1/4 on each side.

We run the bikes with the kickstand up and bikes in gear. We always make sure the bike is upright and can stand on it's own with just the front straps, then we tighten down the back of the bike. We usually tow from eastern NC to Suches GA, about 500 miles. As long as I don't see bikes starting to bounce, I know we're in good shape.

It works for us. I also like having an open trailer so I can keep an eye on the bikes as we're traveling down the road.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 03:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Front straps, like front brakes, are all important. The first time I tried to strap down my bike solo in my single track bike trailer, I tried to do the left rear strap first (as it is the most accessible on my trailer.) What a joke. Once I managed to get the front left marginally secured all was good--the bike was balanced enough to where I could leaving it standing to take care of the rest of the straps.
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Oldog
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 04:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

PepperK496
What is your bike sitting on? I have the same model ford truck and trailering is a pita, what do you use for a ramp?

the trailer seems to kill the gas milage for the truck

A comment about tying down, dont be shy you will not damage the suspension, 1313 Rode back to wilmington with me, we were too "gentile" with the XT not wanting to pull it down hard, it nearly bailed on 60 near sutches ( less than 10 miles ) I look back and the bike is on its side on the trailer, with the luggage inches off of the ground, we were much more serious about the tie down the second time.



(Message edited by oldog on December 07, 2008)
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86129squids
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 05:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've developed my own routines to load/unload and strap down machines, whatever they may be. If someone tries to "help" me, they may actually get in the way unless I direct their actions. Also, trusting your own a to z routines gives peace of mind.

Most folks have no problem pulling down the cam-buckle straps with enough force to get the job done.
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Fester99
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 05:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Here is how not to load one. LOL


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkQYYBOrRNk

(Message edited by fester99 on December 07, 2008)
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Rpm4x4
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 08:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

How about like this?

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Ferris_von_bueller
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 09:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've used these many times
http://www.immioutdoors.com/cargobuckle/
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Sparky
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 09:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

1) If using the pull type tie-downs, I always make a knot in the loose strap up next to the buckle to prevent the strap from backing up if the buckle loses its grip. Y'all do that too, right?

2) Your local Harley/Buell dealer might give you some of their ratchet type straps that hold down new bikes on shipping pallets if you ask.
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Pepperk496
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 09:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Jim, I got some 3/4 plywood and cut it in half. I turned one piece width long on the tailgate and attached it to the other half length wise in the bed with hinges so I could just fold it up and shut the tailgate. I did it mostly because I was concerned with the tailgate frame that is under the plastic getting bent. I have some pictures around somewhere.

As for loading I use the fold up aluminum ramp, just have to find a slight slope to back the track up to and lessen the angle because the Sport Trac tailgate is so high!
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Oldog
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 09:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Great Idea, that bed is kinda "flexy"

Yes on the unload too. I wound up under my X1 in Miami a few years ago
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Nillaice
Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 10:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

my 0.02: RIDE IT!!
alternate hands on the rear jug to keep them warm if you must...

unless your a ninny
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Spiderman
Posted on Monday, December 08, 2008 - 07:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Cam-buckle straps are not secure enough for long hauls...

I don;t understand how a ratchet strap is too 'mechanically complex' ???
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Raceautobody
Posted on Monday, December 08, 2008 - 08:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

They don't have one for buell yet but looks like a very quick secure way to trailer. Looks like it would be ideal for race,track bikes. No real need for any front straps.

http://www.pit-bull.com/trailer-restraint.shtml
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86129squids
Posted on Monday, December 08, 2008 - 12:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Aww, heyull, Spidey- we all know your straps and webbing are better... ; )

I've seen several ratcheting buckles that, upon close inspection, have been tweaked one way or another- just stepping on them can warp the casing. The toothed rings can get out of alignment, also. Noobs who improperly feed the strap through can screw things up in a big way too.

I've carried countless bikes for countless miles with the cam-buckles, never had any of them slip on me. They're much simpler, just as effective as the ratchets.

Learnt this from a guy I worked for who was a bike wholesaler, carried 10X more than I ever did, who only used cam-buckle straps.

Potatoe, potato, lets all go ride. Bottom line is constant checking at every opportunity, no matter what type.

Once sold an Ultra to a guy who was a telephone lineman- watched him and his buddies use thick rope and good ole boy scout knots to basically suspend the bike in an enclosed trailer. (I offered that we had tiedowns for sale, but they proudly refused, secure in their abilities to do it THEIR way.) It would roll a little back and forth, but nothing else, and they were traveling a few hundred miles back home. THAT was a sight to see, real talent and knowhow to giterduuun.

It's your thang-dowhutchawannado-
I can't tell ya, who to strap it to.
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Dogdaze
Posted on Monday, December 08, 2008 - 04:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Isley Brothers funk-a-licious!


If I may add from experience:

1) Double strap each side if you really love her,




2) Use a carabiner instead of the 'S' hook!





(unless of course you don't mind pulling out of your drive, going over the speed bump in front of your house, front forks compressing, 'S' hook dropping out of eyelet, and hearing WHAM!!

Anymore questions as to the origin of the custom $3 Walmart cutting board flyscreen?
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B00stzx3
Posted on Tuesday, December 09, 2008 - 09:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I spent about $80.00 at Home Depot on my ratchet straps. They were made specifically for bikes, came in a red package. Think they were around 35-40 bucks a box, I got 2 boxes. Held down in my Bolt in my F-150 pretty well.
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Miss_doc
Posted on Tuesday, December 09, 2008 - 11:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I used to drive a tow truck and have had to transport quite a few bikes.

First, ALWAYS get the best ratchet straps you can, not the thin 1" wide on sale straps. They WILL break, trust me. Shop had to pay for that learning experience.

Second, I have always run the bike as far forward as possible, or atleast untill the front tire is against something SOLID.
Chocks work, just make sure that they are mounted solidly.

Third, I have always used the triple trees, I have always sat on the bike when tying it down. (yes I have loaded and unloaded bikes alone.) Sitting on the bike will help compress the forks. When you pull the front wheel into the chock/truck bed you make sure that the bike is not going anywhere you dont want it to go. I have transported bikes with only TWO straps before and never had a problem, yet I prefer to run a third strap through the rear wheel and to the rear of the bed/ trailer to make sure that the rear is not sliding around.

Most of the time I was driving a roll back flatbed, one meant to transport cars and trucks not bikes. Yes the suspension is ALOT stiffer.

Short story, get GOOD STRAPS, compress forks, tie tight.

The ONLY bike that was ever dropped when I was transporting it was a BMW sport touring. Had alot of cheap straps going to different positions. I can't blame anyone but myself, I let the owner advise me on how to secure his bike (never made that mistake again.). After 100 mi, I stopped to get directions and re-check the straps (again). Pulling out of the parking lot made a right turn to get into traffic and heard a loud thump. Looked in my mirrors and did not see the bike. I had to get back out of traffic and stand the bike back up and re-secure it. I found one of the primary straps broke. No the owner was not with me. Thank God for insurance, and a mellow boss, shortly after that the shop invested in better quality straps. After that experience I do belive that overkill is a good thing.
Hope this helps.
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Nitsebes
Posted on Tuesday, December 09, 2008 - 04:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)



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