| Author | Message | ||
     Mikef5000 |
I picked up this Winchester 1200 off a coworker for next to nothing last year. Whomever owned it before him attempted a home brewed spray can camo job, which didn't come out very good. They also didn't use it hardly at all, because the inards are in mint condition, no signs of wear at all! The thing works great! Black is more my 'style' anyway, so I bought some "gun camo paint remover" and went at it. Well after a few hours, I realized that this isn't working (well). So I'm on to plan B right now. With a flat head screwdriver and 20 minutes, I've disassembled the entire thing, in preparation for cleaning, masking, priming, and painting flat black. I'm using this website as a basic guide, although they went all out, and I'm just going flat black (with maybe some flat dark grey for a contrast): http://www.duckhuntingchat.com/viewtopic.php?t=360 00 I can't wait to get the thing looking decent! It works so great, (hours of non-stop trap shooting without any glitch or issue) it's time for it to look great too! BEFORE:     (Message edited by Mikef5000 on November 17, 2008) | ||
| Tramp |
IF you're going for Black (or any other opaque colours) leave the old paint on, if it's difficult to remove...means it's a durable finish (Even cheap spray paint can be exceptionally durable). Rough it up a hair w/scotch brite (or 600 sandpaper, but the steel grit you may create won't do the action much good) and spray the colour of your choice- I suggest purchasing a few cans of camo colours from Home Depot, given the fact that waterfowl (and all fowl, for that matter) have very sharp eyesight, and breaking the long profile up by spraying sections in contrasting shades is the move. | ||
| Johnnymceldoo |
I use Norrells moly resin. Its not a paint but is probably the closest thing to a parkerized finish you can get without parkerizing. They have different colors available but Ive used the flat grayish black and semi gloss black. You need an airbrush and an oven but there is no mixing involved. You heat your part up to 100 degrees if my memory is correct and then paint your part. You then bake it at 300 degrees F for one hour. The finish is more durable than anything you will find in a spray can. Lacquer thinner will not even take it off which is what I would use to take of that cammo paint. Its a little expensive but its well worth it. Leave the old black finish on if your going to redo it in black anyways. http://www.johnnorrellarms.com/ | ||
| Tramp |
Baking metal gun parts at 300 o F for an hour won't do them any good. Simple can spray paint provides an exceptionally durable finish, but if you're using your scattergun for hammering nails and beating on rocks to make cool sounds, then, by all means, bake it with some expensive resin. If you plan to use it for hunting or for combat, camo spray paint will serve you very well. | ||
| Johnnymceldoo |
You bake the parts that have been painted with the resin. The process is important in order for the resin to adhere to the metal. But tramp is right. Simple spray paint will work to resist corrosion but be careful cleaning it with hoppes or other gun solvents because the paint will come off like butter. It comes down to what you want and how much time and money you want to spend. | ||
| Tramp |
Thanks for bringing up Hoppes, by the way- There are few smells more evocative of the things I enjoyed the most as a kid, than that of Hoppes on a flannel patch. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
The gun is used mainly for clay and target shooting. I'm not patient enough for actual hunting, and hopefully it will never be needed for combat! I just picked up some sand paper, blue painters tape, self-etching primer, and ultra-flat black camo paint. | ||
| Tramp |
flat black's only camo when it's in a coal mine. just call it flat black paint  Instead of tape, stick a slightly folded piece of precut cardboard into the slide, and let it open up in there. | ||
| Ferris_von_bueller |
I've heard good things about DuraCoat but have never tried it. It requires no preheating or baking. Impervious to solvents. They have various stencil patterns to assist in obtaining a professional look. What I dont care for, this system requires an application tool such as a paint sprayer or airbrush. http://www.duracoat-firearm-finishes.com/ (Message edited by ferris_von_bueller on November 17, 2008) | ||
| Johnnymceldoo |
I have a friend who uses duracoat and its high quality stuff. The reason I didnt go that route at the time was it needed to be mixed. I just didnt want the hassle. Its awesome stuff though. | ||
| Tramp |
I've got a buddy in NC who's used it with excellent results, has nothing bad to say about it- To me, it just seems like overkill for a weapon, but it rocks, from what I hear. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
flat black's only camo when it's in a coal mine. just call it flat black paint No... but.... it's called camo paint.  | ||
| Tramp |
Hey- That's the stuff I use They sell each camo colour that way, hence even flat black is camo in that context | ||
| Road_thing |
 Only one way to go... rt | ||
| Reepicheep |
Where's the pink one Thing? I was hoping you would share some wisdom here... | ||
| Road_thing |
Well, OK, two ways...  I did Pinky with Krylon. Holds up fine if you don't hit it with Hoppe's or similar grim solvents. rt | ||
| Road_thing |
You knew it was coming, didn't you? If you want to take the time and the trouble, automotive base/clear coat is just about indestructible as far as cleaning solvents are concerned. Lacquer thinner won't touch it. But it's an expensive pain in the *ss unless you've already got it on hand for some other reason, and have an airbrush or jamb gun. rt |
