| Author | Message | ||
     Blasterd |
Upon replacing my primary gasket & tensioner, of course after I finished putting the oil in & everything, I re-read over the manual & noticed where it said to position the tensioner with the closed side of the shoe to the primary cover. Oops, I put the open side to the primary cover, do I need to worry? I really don't want to have to go back and redo everything but I also don't want to cause any damage to the bike or myself .Any input? I knew it went to easy. Ken | ||
| Leeaw |
Now you have me worrying if I did it right recently! Luckily mine has a slight leak and I got the newer metal gasket to fix it. | ||
| Glitch |
No, stupid would be doing the same thing expecting different results... Wish I could help you with your question. But, if it were me, I'd just cuss for a minute, then tear back into it, and get it the way the book calls for. When the books points out specifically how to position something, there's a reason. | ||
| Newfie_buell |
Just do it and toss it up to experience!!! | ||
| Blasterd |
Thanks Guys, I tore it down & did it the way the book says. It just sucks to do the same thing twice. Ken | ||
| Bomber |
yeah, but think how good you'll be the next time! nothing succeeds like excess! | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Blasterd....how difficult is the project (scale of 1-10)? I need to do the same thing in the upcoming weeks. Unfortunately for me, I also need to try finding the problem with my 1st gear  | ||
| Jst |
When I put Em back together I had to pull the primary apart all the way to the transmission TWICE! The only gears I could get were (I thought) 2nd and 3rd with a false neutral between them. So I tore everything apart to see were I screwed up. It turned out the mistake was on the outside of the primary case. I put the shifter arm on upside down and ended up with a GP style (1 up 4 down) pattern. DOH!!  | ||
| Blasterd |
Lake_bueller, Very easy process if you follow everyones advice under the knowledge vault. The worst part was having to drill the torx bolts out of the clutch cover after the heads stripped. Make sure you use a torx # 27 on them. And not to mention me putting the shoe in backwards. Make sure you read the manual too. It was my 1st time in there as well. On a scale of 1 - 10? Maybe a 3. Ken | ||
| Bomber |
Mennis . . . .it's easy, really . . .. . gather some 1/4X20 stailess allen head bolts to replace the verdamdt torx in the clutch cover, like the man said . . . . . don't repeat my mistake, and remember to loosen the chain adjuster before taking the cover off (smile) . . .. . my motto is to make NEW mistakes each time, and not repeat old ones! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Lake... the job, even down to the level of having the transmission sitting out and on your bench, is some work, but is TREMENDOUSLY satisfying. You will need a couple of the big sockets (size posted somewhere around here, Sears stocks them at a reasonable gouge, or find your local Harbor Freight and buy a set). You will also need to fabricate some sort of locking link to hold the primary chain still while pulling off the crank nut and the transmission nut. I just used a scrap of aluminum around 6 inches long cut down to size with a hack saw. All you need is a short flat almuninum bar. An impact tool might be helpful on the crank nut, but I have one and the last time I pulled the tranny I never even bothered to take it out and use it. I just put on my 2' breaker bar and stood on it. You can get the nut off fine that way. The only real reason the impact wrench is handy there is that you can hold the locking bar in place with one hand, while holding the impact wrench with the other hand. Otherwise, you have to wedge the locking bar in place and stand on the breaker bar. Sometimes the bolt comes loose, other times the locking bar goes rocketing across the garage and you flop around in that pool of tranny fluid you just got all over the garage floor  The new Harley or Cometic metal primary gasket makes the job MUCH easier as well. And you definetely don't want to try it without a service manual (so you know which of those nuts has reverse threads, if nothing else). Pull the front and back primary chain sprockets off together with the chain as a unit. Those magnets in the rotor will act like a spring, watch your fingertips, but comes off easy enough. You are then just a few bolts away from having the transmission completely out, which is really cool. Once you have the transmission out on the bench (a remarkably easy job), it is pretty easy to exercise it and see what is going wrong where. On mine, the pins for the shift forks had raised a lip on the edge of the groove they ride in on the shifter drum. I filed these down and got a huge improvement in transmission feel. In hindsight I wish I had gone after them more aggressively, I was addressing other problems at the time and did not realize how much of an improvement this made. I also polished the shifter drum assembly with 1600 grit paper. Don't know if this helped anything, it probably did, but it did make it pretty You also need loktite red and blue. Make sure you clean the threads before re-applying and re-assembling with the proper loktite. Retorque the primary cover nuts after the first couple heat cycles (read: hard rides). Removing the derby cover bolts gradually just a few turns at a time going around the circle will keep it from getting crooked and seizing... this is what usually leads to a stripped Torx head. Harley has chromed (naturally) allen head bolts to replace them blister packed at your local shop. The allen head ones last a little better, buy you still have to remove them gradually moving around the circle. It's a really satisfying job! These may not be the best shifting trannies in the world, but they rock to work on. |
