| Author | Message | ||
     Strmvt |
 http://www.hsperformanceparts.com/index.asp?siteid =48&type=detail&id=201&action=page&name=1264 Came across this site in the newest Cycleworld mag. looks promising somewhat like a K&N This is the 12R filter (Message edited by strmvt on March 19, 2008) | ||
| Teeps |
Looks cool, and is certainly designed to sell... | ||
| P47b |
Read this before you even look at a filter. http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Filters.html A FRAM works better at cleaning oil. I don't recommend FRAM to any one. http://www.math.uwaterloo.ca/~rblander/FRAM_recall .html I have a friend who had a VFR & lived by FRAM filters. He got stranded by the side of the road with this same thing. The seal broke | ||
| Iamike |
Ok, so that problem happend what, 13 years ago so we are supposed to still avoid them? Well Buell had some recalls several years ago, so we shouldn't ever buy a Buell again, or Ford, or Chevy, or Chrysler or..... | ||
| P47b |
No Mike, It's your choice. They just have not change there filtering practice. Cardboard endcaps fall apart under high pressure oil during a cold start. Use what you want to use. I've paid my dues with FRAM and will never go back to using them. | ||
| Blake |
I've been using Fram for decades. No engine trouble or oil filter trouble yet. Lately I've been getting their synthetic filter media versions, which are highly rated. The carboard end caps should be able to withstand the pressure allowed to build until the bypass valve opens. Plus, I use synthetic oil, so the cold start pressure just isn't that severe. | ||
| Thumper74 |
Fram's been having issues as of late. I like Purolator and Wix for my money. | ||
| Wolf102 |
i use mobil 1 and highly recommend them | ||
| Crusty |
Has anybody considered that Buell engines (with the probable exception of the 1125R) have rolling element bearings which need low oil pressure? I had a friend whose old Panhead would only show 10 PSI in the summer when it was hot. That engine lasted years without needing any mechanical attention. However, I do prefer Wix or Motorcraft filters. I wonder how much that pretty filter in the picture costs? | ||
| Badlionsfan |
the link sez 124 bones. | ||
| Glitch |
the link sez 124 bones. I'll stick with the Buell filter, it's like what, $5? | ||
| Badlionsfan |
i agree glitch. | ||
| Xl1200r |
I also like to just use the Buell filter. Who knows if it's the best out there, but you're talking a difference of maybe a few bucks, and if something happens, my dealer can't tell me I used the wrong brand filter or something silly. Plus, buying my oil change stuff from them keeps in their store spending a little money here and there so they all remember who I am and treat me good when i have a real problem or want to buy a new bike. BTW - that billet filter looks exactly like the ones NRHS sells. | ||
| Djkaplan |
I had a buddy that had a similar filter, a Scott I think it was. He wanted to inspect what it was catching on his rebuilt engine, but eventually got tired of cleaning it and having to deal with the used solvent afterwards. It was doubling his trips to the recyclers so he eventually stopped using it. He never had a problem with the way it worked, just got tired of the mess. | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
That is Funny.... I have had the Scott's filter on my bike since 2004. It takes all of 3-4 minutes to clean the thing, And it gives me a chance to see what kind of metals/junk it is catching/cleaning in my motor... No problems what so ever. How lazy has society become where we look at something and say it takes to long to clean so I will not get it.... Instead I will change my filter and throw the oily filter in the trash....That is MUCH CLEANER!!!!!  | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Does the Buell Filter suck? How much cheaper is the "good" filter? If the Buell Filter is good yet costs a few cents more per filter, I'll send you $5 to cover the difference in your lifetime filter cost. I just don't understand the value in cross referencing the filter from a 1971 Ford Fairlane to save $.38 per filter. I bought a crap load of filters from Andy with a BW discount. | ||
| Rick_a |
I've had the Scott's for years, too. It's nice to see what's going through there. The internal magnet accumulates a metal paste that I'd rather not have circulating. | ||
| Bombardier |
Any engine problems with the Scott filter Rick? | ||
| Indy_bueller |
I like the K&N oil filter myself. | ||
| Just_ziptab |
My 32 year old lawn mower DOESN'T have an oil filter. I change the oil way not often enuf.....every couple of years now because it's not my main machine. It see's six or so hours a year run time. Still an unmolested/original engine that runs terrific. The Buells are my first motor cycles that have oil filters. All the preceding ones ran and and ran and ran with out filtering. Makes you wonder. | ||
| Slaughter |
I got a Scott - it's a tight fit on the XB - better fit on the S3. I had to machine about 1/16 off the base to clear. I understand on later models, clearance isn't an issue (I sent Scotts an email about it so who knows if it made a difference - that was 3 years ago) Since I change the filter every month on the XB, I just use the K&N with safety-wire holes. | ||
| Indy_bueller |
American Sport Bike sells a reusable filter setup like that I think. | ||
| Pwnzor |
I personally like the K&N filters, and I don't mind paying ~$10 or so for it. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Is there any outside testing done on that filter? From an 'environmental' point of view, that filter has it's advantages. If I change my oil every 3k miles with a $5 Buell filter, it'd take over 70k miles before I break even with that stainless one. I'll take the proven trusted technology for now. Maybe if that steel one was more common (trusted), or more reasonably priced I'd look at it more seriously. I use K&N for my car because I run it up to 10k miles (sometimes). They have the best filtration of any standard filter. |
