| Author | Message | ||
     Oldog |
Are any of you folks ford or auto techs, is there a short cut for removing the #1,2,3 plugs in the 4L sohc engine? or do I have to pull the coolant/ washer bottles then the ac&fan unit ??? Mr Hayes was decidedly vauge on that tidbit for plug change ( glad the plugs go 60k miles ) | ||
| Ferrisbuellersdayoff |
oh crap that reminds me... my jeep is on 268k and I've yet to change mine! thanks for reminding me. Sorry i dont have a ford 4.0L a friend of mine does and its constantly in the shop cause of the intake and crap. what vehicle is it in? i hope for your sake its not the explorer sport trac. | ||
| Deadduck |
Use of an air chisel on those motors are the easiest and the most gratifying | ||
| Oldog |
i hope for your sake its not the explorer sport trac. Err yes it is 2001 model 2wd got it with 90k+ on it have 120 k on it just got it from the body shop after using up one side of it. runs a little rough, still need to change the passenger side plugs, the plastic intake gives problems or your friends is a 4x4 ?? it looks like I will have to drop the AC and that sucks  } | ||
| Guell |
i have a 4.0 sohc but havnt ever done the plugs. i probably should soon | ||
| U4euh |
Is it possible to get to them easier on a lift from underneath? Call your local AutoZone and have them look up the "Job Info" on the new Z-Net computers they have. If there is a short cut, it will be listed, that is if they have the information at all.Just a thought! | ||
| Oldog |
Thanks U4 I will have to try that, I was under the truck for the oil change I don't know if they can be reached from beneath especialy #3 ( rear passenger side) that beats trying to move the AC unit and it's blower. | ||
| Wile_ecoyote |
Maybe you can get at them through the side just above the frame rail. The rubber splash guards may have to be removed or zip-tied out of the way. Best wishes, if i were closer I would come and help you. | ||
| Thumper74 |
Sorry, I checked... AllData says, "REMOVAL 1. Remove the spark plug wires from the spark plugs. 2. Remove the spark plugs. NOTE: Use compressed air to remove any foreign material in the spark plug well before removing the spark plugs. If an original spark plug is reused, make sure it is installed in the same cylinder it was taken from. New spark plugs can be used in any cylinder. 3. Inspect the spark plugs. 4. Use a suitable spark plug gap tool to check and adjust the spark plug gap. INSTALLATION 5. To install, reverse the removal procedure." The scary news is that the flatrate is 1.4 hours! I just checked Mitchel On Demand and it only pays 1.0 for plugs. I'm thinking you shouldn't have to do anything with the Air Conditioning One of my supervisors had one and he seemed to remember having to unbolt the motormount and was able to use a floorjack to get it high enough to reach right in with an extension. You could just call a Ford dealer and ask them too... (Message edited by Thumper74 on January 14, 2008) | ||
| Oldog |
Thanks Thump, 1.4 Hrs hell I had to remove the egr and sensor and disconnect the wiring for the engine electronics to get the driver side plugs out and those were easy , "All data" LOL the Hayes manual read that way verbatim that would be, "SOME DATA"  I guess that they had a trained octopus remove them mebe ? I cant gets my hands in to pull the wire off let alone get a wrench on the passenger side 3 ( I might get to the #1 front on that side ) the 3 plugs that are out of it are shot. I will post a pic mebe some one has done it before, remove motor mount ?? can you twist the drive line like that ?? unlike my X1 this thing has 4 too many cylinders, and a whole buncha plumbing in the bloody way. ( I still like that heat and air though! )  (Message edited by oldog on January 14, 2008) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
My toyota V6 is the same way. It would have been better if it had a four-banger. I had to remove big piles of intake crap to get to the point of even seeing the damn things. Then of course, it turned out to have the idiot plugs seized in there. Looks like those plugs will be good for the life of the engine. Last Toyota I'll ever own. | ||
| U4euh |
Wile is on to something there. After reading that I remembered that I had a custom Nova that I would go through the fender well to get a better grip on the plug in the back. What if you removed the rubber shroud that covers the A-frame, lift the truck and remove tire? They should be right there within reach, maybe with a wobble attachment. | ||
| Thumper74 |
Funny... You should take a peek underneath a new Audi's hood. They're so plastic clad you need a service manual to GET to the plugs... From what I understand, it's not a big height, a few inches of pivoting shouldn't hurt anything. I had a motormount break in my Mustang enough to allow the motor to rock up and dent the hood from the inside out and allow it to drop enough that the front sump of the oil pan managed to hit (AND puncture)  the swaybar without hurting anything else powertrain wise... | ||
| Oldog |
Funny... You should take a peek underneath a new Audi's hood. They're so plastic clad you need a service manual to GET to the plugs... 20 lbs of $hit, 2 lbs sack?? I guess thats why some engines are getting 100k mile plugs? BTW thanks all stay tuned "Moby" is gettin them plugs If I have to remove half the stinking truck... on another note any one ever do upper and lower ball joints on these trucks?} Nate a friend of mine got his wife a lexus the starter motor for that thing is 600$ and the location is such that a head or some such has to come off to change it.. I would not own a honda/toyota/nissan because of service issues | ||
| Etennuly |
Two things to watch for when jacking up the engine on one side, is the fan hitting the shroud(unless it is an electric fan), and watch the exhaust pipe for clearances on the firewall or crossmembers. Have a first aid kit and phone within reach, dial 911 and have it set up to just push one button for dialing with your nose or tongue. Oh, and use a piece of wood, like a 4X4, as a jack stand between the engine and the vehicle(so you don't have to use the hands free dialing method described above).  | ||
| Thumper74 |
Some of the Lexus' with inline 6s have starters under the intake... It's a 6 hour job. Hondas are freaking cake cars! Hell, the cam gears have built in locks to keep them from rotating when doing the timing belt. Hondas are great to work on even if parts availability isn't that phenominal. Try an easy timing belt replace on my Focus. It requires a special tool to hold the gears in place to keep the two cams lined up. I suppose if your engine still has the hooks, you can use an engine hoist... Seriously, show up with some donuts at your local Ford service department, they'll show you how. | ||
| Azxb9r |
No need to disassemble the A/C. You can do all 6 plugs from the top,it just requires the proper collection of extensions and some physical discomfort. | ||
| Newfie_buell |
OR A really small person | ||
| Oldog |
Thanks Mark, I'll have a look this weekend the discomfort has started the easy side was not so easy the rear plug has maybe 2" from the tip to the cold air box | ||
| Thumper74 |
If it makes you feel better, I'm afraid to change the plugs on the XB... | ||
| Kyrocket |
This thread makes me miss my old Chrysler Laser. Pop the hood and four plugs and the filter looking you right in the face. Man that was sweet. Now I have Nate's problem, V6 Toyota, had it five years and refuse to change the plugs. They do that for job security you know? | ||
| Oldog |
Thump, I understand that I would be too. I helped my buddy Lee race kit his Bolt. that is the 20 / 2 thing, i have a tube frame so plugs are not an issue, Isolators can be. there is maybe 3" from the tip of the back plug to the side of the cold air box. Nate i remember that thread, My bosses' f150 has the v8 with the hi milage plugs he says that they are 100$ ea My v6 were 2.65$ the old ones showed signs of rust on the threads (German Ford OHC no gaskets on plugs) they came out hard. How much force did you apply to yours? | ||
| Oldog |
Update: U4 IF we ever meet at say the fish camp Lunch is on me.. I pulled the washer/ radiator bottles, the top half of the air filter housing, the cruise control, and unbolted the tranny dipstick 1 & 2 were worn out and came out hard, #3 had to be removed as U4 describes above it had an accumulation of ash on it but was worn about the same amount. Thanks to all, "Moby" runs much better the idle still ocelates when the truck is put into park, I think that this item is top side front right [ air motor ?? ] again Thanks all, this place rocks! | ||
| Cataract2 |
Why I like diesel.... Cummins diesel. No glow plugs even. |
