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Wolfridgerider
Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2007 - 07:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)






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Thumper74
Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2007 - 09:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ouch! What are those from?

What's the top of the piston look like? Does the aluminum have a consistent look? Does it look a little spongey/porous? How does the combustion chamber look?

Normally I'd say lean/pinging/detonation, but that seems WAY too localized to be something like that. Plus, the picture looks a little fuzzy.Your camera should have a little button that looks like a flower for super close up shots. Try that, snap a new one and post up.

When do you wanna do the exhaust on the Lightning?
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Etennuly
Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2007 - 09:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Last time I saw one like that, a hardened bolt had been dropped down the intake, and the engine started for a short knocking time.
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Smokescreen
Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2007 - 10:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

How does the piston look? Are the rings still intact?

Smokescreen
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Wolfridgerider
Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2007 - 10:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Not my bike.... just some pics one of my friends sent me last night. Lucky for him he bought the extended warranty for his Ultra and its covered.

I just wanted to see if anyone knew what would cause that kind of damage.
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New12r
Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2007 - 10:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The spark plug could have been arcing over to the valve, but that is a long shot!
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Mikef5000
Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2007 - 11:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Actually, I could believe that! Since the damage appears to be so localized. Problem is normally valves are supposed to be rotating as they're going up and down. That would eliminate that localization.

Hmm, back to square one.
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Glitch
Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2007 - 11:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

collapsed lifter?
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Thumper74
Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2007 - 11:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I guess if there was a problem with the valve rotating that could happen. I would think that the valve would have bound in the guide first.

I think that they should determine what's causing this before they do in another valve/topend.
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Wolfridgerider
Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2007 - 11:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

When do you wanna do the exhaust on the Lightning?

I have one in the garage that has just been sitting there. Now that it has a home, I will get it done. 20 bucks and your muffler sound ok to you?
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Mikef5000
Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2007 - 11:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I'll help with this project if I'm not at work. Maybe move this to the Storm Fronts and make a small GTG out of it? Just a thought.
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Wolfridgerider
Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2007 - 11:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

GTG?
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Thumper74
Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2007 - 11:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

That's fine with me!

GTG? A small Columbus Buell party in winter?! Hell, if it's local and not icey, I'll ride anytime!

Is it from the 12 so the interactive valve works (mostly concerned about the Check Engine Light)? Can we make a stubby? If this is gonna be a party, I have ideas that may improve this. Instead of baffles that are perpendicular to the length, baffles at an angle (think inside of a Flowmaster) would keep speed up if it's just a gutted can like the video shown in YouTube. Getting rid of the factory piping and running a single pipe for the low rpm stuff and then using the interactive valve to route the exhaust into the body of the can would make it sound wicked but allow for the high RPM flow when really cranked...

Can we start it with just the header?

How has yours been on your XBR?

(Message edited by Thumper74 on December 20, 2007)

(Message edited by Thumper74 on December 20, 2007)
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Wolfridgerider
Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2007 - 11:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I can't remember my check engine light coming on.... You shouldn't need to get get your TPS reset unless you buy a Race Ecm. If you do, just PM Lost-in-ohio and let him know. He can hook you up.
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Mr_grumpy
Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2007 - 02:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Cracked valve seat, lets gas blow by, it burns in one local spot, which is enough to stop self rotation, then it just blows a bigger & bigger hole.
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Pammy
Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2007 - 06:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Exhaust valves run at 1200 to 1350 degrees F. on average, which makes them much more vulnerable to erosion and burning than intakes. The higher operating temperature requires a tougher alloy, so exhaust valves are usually made of stainless steel or have stainless steel heads (typically 21-2N or

About 75% of the combustion heat that is conducted away from the valve passes through the seat, so good seat contact is essential to prevent burning. The remaining 25% of the heat is dissipated up through the valve stem and out through the guides. Sodium filled hollow valve stems in heavy-duty applications are sometimes used to draw even more heat up through the stems to aid cooling.

Anything that interferes with valve cooling or creates extra heat in the valve or head can lead to premature valve failure. A buildup of deposits on the valve face and seat can have an insulating effect that slows cooling and makes the valve run hot. So too can poor contact between the valve and seat if the seat is too narrow, nonconcentric or off-square. If deposits build up in one spot or flake off in another, it can allow leaks that create hot spots on the valve and result in "channeling" (grooves eroded or burned into the valve).

Weak springs or insufficient valve lash can also prevent good valve-to-seat contact and allow excessive heat to build up in the valves. A loose seat or poorly fitting guide can also hinder heat transfer to the head and contribute to burning.

Valves can also run hot because of elevated combustion temperatures. Factors such as retarded ignition timing, lean fuel mixtures (often due to vacuum leaks), detonation (from too much compression or low octane fuel) or preignition (from hot spots caused by deposits in the combustion chamber or too hot a spark plug) can all play a role here.
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Mikef5000
Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2007 - 07:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

GTG?

GTG = Get ToGether (if that's what you meant by ).
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Firemanjim
Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2007 - 07:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

That's what the valve looked like in my nitrous bike when it went lean----kinda like you took a cutting torch to it.
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Jlnance
Posted on Friday, December 21, 2007 - 10:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

A buildup of deposits on the valve face and seat can have an insulating effect that slows cooling and makes the valve run hot.

I know HPC has a coating for valves. Do you have any experience with this? From what you say above, it seems like it might be a bad idea to coat valves.

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Pammy
Posted on Friday, December 21, 2007 - 10:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

We coat the valves as well. We also coat the pistons, chambers, ports, etc...It is all relative to application. We coat parts, cryo parts, have parts tumbled and micro polished. I don't think there is anything we haven't tried.
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Glitch
Posted on Friday, December 21, 2007 - 10:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I don't think there is anything we haven't tried.
What do y'all recommend?
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Rekrab
Posted on Sunday, December 23, 2007 - 09:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Valve looks exactly like what happened on my Road King, Failure happened after day of riding with header leak next to head.[Had to ride to dealer for fix]
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