| Author | Message | ||
     Sparky |
So how can I remove the broken piece of hardened "K&N Screw Extractor" from the rusted stud so that I can properly drill out the stud and hopefully not damage the head further? I know of EDM and a local place called Tap-Ex whereby they electically dissolve away the metal, but you have to take the part to their shop and the head is already installed. Are there portable EDM units? Or are there other less expensive ways of removing the Ezy-Out? I tried tapping the piece with a punch in a CW direction but can't get a good enough purchase on it to move it. Details: the stud is 5/16" coarse thd, the broken piece is slightly below the surface of the cast iron head, and it mounts the intake manifold on a newly rebuilt '65 Dodge Dart slant six. Sorry this post isn't exactly Buell related, but it counts as a learning experience that might be useful to know what not to do if I ever have to fix, say a broken exhaust stud on my S1.  So all you guys that have dealt with broken bolts, studs or taps, what works? What doesn't? | ||
| 98s1lightning |
See if you can find a welder to come to your house or do you have a small wire feed unit? What you want to do is take a 5/16 nut, lay it over the old stud and fill it with weld so the it welds to the stud. Now if you got a good weld you can remove the stud as if it were a bolt and your done. | ||
| Smoke |
diamond tip drill bits. one won't finish the job. they are like dremel router bits. ggod luck. tim | ||
| Gjwinaus |
"Are there portable EDM units?" Yes there are, They work like and EDM machine but they are crude,with a hand held electrode, ask at a tool machinery supplier if they have sold any to local contractors or sometimes your local fastener supplier may be able to guide you to a contractor with one of these machines, But if all else fails you will have to diss-assemble the head and get a toolmaker to "spark" out the broken tap. I broke a tap in the case between the two cylinders of my sportster and I made a jig so I could lay the bike on its side and lifted it with a fork lift into the EDM machine and it took a couple of hours to spark out. It saved me having to dis-assemble the bike You could also ask a bike salvage business where they get the broken hydraulic bleed screws out of disc brake calipers, thats also a fairly common occurance, Hope some of this may help. | ||
| Jlnance |
OMG, you have a 65 Dart. I learned to drive in one of those. I loved that car. It was my mothers before she married my Dad, and it stayed in the family for over 20 years because it would never die. I may have been conceived in that car. ;) Good luck with the stud removal. At least you have a lot of room to work around that engine. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Best just take it off and do it right,save yourself any more grief. | ||
| Ceejay |
Cool car! What 98S1 said-My dad and I did this on an old 48 tractor just recently and they all came out pretty nicely... | ||
| Reepicheep |
This happened on my Cyclone, the whole ugly store is deep in the knowledge vault somewhere. I used a handful (probably 4 or 5) diamond tipped dremel bits. I would cut a groove, use a punch to "break" now unsupported parts of the tap, blow or dig those out, then dig the next groove. It was literally 8 hours of dremeling, not a good time. I believe you can get carbide drill bits that can drill the easy out, but I have never tried to find them and don't know how good they work. | ||
| Reepicheep |
98S1 and CeeJay... so how would you do this with a "sub flush" broken stud? I have a tube of that "weld heat shield" putty, that looks to be fairly remarkable stuff in terms of insulation properties. Could you put that between the nut and the head, but hollow in the middle, then do the wire feed trick? Even it were above the head, could you weld the stud without melting an aluminum head? And could you do it with Oxy Act? Just thinking out loud... (Message edited by reepicheep on August 27, 2007) | ||
| Ceejay |
we had one like this and actually just used a very thick washer standing on end...work just as well as using a nut. The heat from the wire welder seemed to help. An O/A set-up, well I dunno. I've never used one extensively before, expecially for something like this and around Al. Al has a pretty high melting point on the surface. Once the stuff oxidizes the melting point is something like 1600oF but underneath that oxidation layer its down around 350oF, thus why it's tricky to weld. I think it'd be alright as your not trying to weld to it, especially since the materials are so different and the use of sheild putty. Of course I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn so... | ||
| Hexangler |
I've done this before. I solved it by using diamond dental drill to cut a slot in the easy out, and then backed it out with a screw driver. I am assuming that you drilled a straight walled pilot hole through the stud first. This means that the tapered easy out is only biting a small amount of the stud. Just keep grinding at it with a diamond bit, use water to keep the diamond bit from loosing its grit to heat. High speed, low pressure, patience, and focus... Hex | ||
| Swampy |
Place a nut over the broken stud and weld it to the remnents of the stud. While it is cooling, use some bees wax on it as the bees wax will wick in and help lube things up for the trip out! | ||
| Sparky |
Thanks for all the different ideas for getting this done. I'm sorta leaning towards the diamond tipped bits and playing dentist with it. Yeah, this won't hurt a bit! I highly doubt that after I remove the Ezy-Out, the stud will just unscrew because the end of the stud is inside the water jacket of the cast iron head and it's not just rusted inside there -- it's ugly rusted, Prestone anti-freeze notwithstanding. Boy, I hope they didn't design the 1125R this way.  So I'm hoping that if I drilled the pilot hole straight enough, I can use ever larger drill bits to just get to where the threads are. Then, again hopefully, a tapered tap can remove the stud remnants and clean up the threads. | ||
| Cheesebeast |
Kroil it! After you remove the "ezy-out" soak the remnants in Kroil. It will penetrate in and it certainly will help in getting the bolt out. Consider a Carbide burr in addition to a diamond bit. I used a burr to remove a broken screw extractor with good results. Good luck, I don't envy the problem. | ||
| Reepicheep |
On my M2, the drill hole indeed went "off center". By the time it was near full depth of the original stud, it was off by half the diameter of the original stud. So I just tapped the whole mess out to the right size... meaning that at the bottom of the new stud, half the new stud was in the aluminum head, and the other half was in the old steel stud. I did not drill full depth, so the bottom part of that stud was still anchored in the aluminum. Gave me the heebie-jeebies for a while, but held up fine for another 20k miles until I sold the bike. So even if you do drill it off center, so long as it does not intersect any other important bits, you might be able to tap (or heli-coil) it and be fine. | ||
| Tom_b |
not trying to hijack, but firemanjim, are you going to the bubb speed trials next week? just met a local that is taking his vincent streamliner there. going for the record which is 350 plus mph | ||
| Aesquire |
Once you do get the e-z out, out, try left hand drill bits to remove stud. Cheap ones can be had a Harbor Freight, or good ones at a decent tool store. I've never had good luck with hardened ez out style broken bolt removers, I always break them. EDM will do the neatest job, but not the hand held ones, you need an oil bath to focus the sparks properly. Good luck ( pull the head ) Love them slant 6's. | ||
| Xbduck |
Having had to fix uh-oh's for machinists in my past life I will let you in on a few ideas that I have used. The first is to find someone who could tig weld an extension on to the ezy-out. The idea of mig welding a nut on should work just as well because it is the mother of all bitches to weld cast iron (yes it can be done). What I mean by that is your odds of the welded nut sticking to your cast head are very low. Kroil does work wonders if you don't get in a big hurry. If you could heat a section of the head where the bolt is with your torches the cast will expand and break the bond it has with the rust. Don't put the heat of the torch directly on to the object you want to remove. The less heat it gets the better, it won't try to expand with the cast iron part without direct heat. Some times if you punch the tap hard enough it will break further and you can just remove the pieces. Then if you can't get a big piece out go back to the tig welder and have them weld to the piece. Well I hope you found something of value in my methods. You may find a combination of methods will do the trick. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Tom,not gonna make it. Hope the Vincent guy gets that bike to run cleanly this time. Seen him run several times before,never got it to make a good run. Jim. | ||
| Just_ziptab |
A local old school welder uses a stick welder with Allstate 275 rod. Puts a puddle on the remains in the hole and keeps building the puddle till it is above the surface far enuf to weld a small round bar to it. Usually, with the latent heat, it spins right out, broken stud/tap and all.......... |
