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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Quick Board Archives » Archive 0209 (September 2002) » Buells handling (97 S1) « Previous Next »

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Jayb
Posted on Thursday, September 19, 2002 - 06:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hi guys, I recently picked up a used 97 S1. This is my first real motorcycle (old honda shadow didn't count)

Anyway after finnaly figuring out what recalls are done( all are done), and setting up my suspension to factory settings (along with pre-load for me) I let my co-worker take it for a spin yesterday (he is the same weight/build as I am). He owns a Ducati 916 and a Honda RC51 so I was curious what he would think about it.
He told me the bike handles weird. He said when taking a fast sharp turn (90 degree) he said the bike felt fine, as he leaned it over at the start of the turn, and then all of a sudden, the bike just wanted to keep on leaning over.

He said he had to fight with it. Is this a problem with Buells and their short wheelbase, or is my bike screwed up somehow?

I am still taking it slow on the bike, and really haven't noticed what he is talking about, but I usually go pretty slow around corners.

He also said that maybe if he took it for a longer ride, he might get used to it, and maybe he wouldn't try and correct it with the handlebars (which he tried this time, and said it made it worse)

Any other riders coming from the sport bike world, notice this on there first buell test ride?

Just hoping my bikes not screwed up somehow, and I never knew about it.

Thanks
Jay Boudreau
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Jmartz
Posted on Thursday, September 19, 2002 - 08:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My '96 does the same thing. The cure (improvement) is: new tires, isolators and a steering dampener. You might also need wheel and neck bearings. If those are worn replacing them will make a world of difference.

I have ridden a 916 quite extenseively and the bike does handle a bit better. I think the Buell's frame design allows for a bit of distortion between the front and rear wheels giving it that "I want to drop you" feeling.

More recently an additional brace and heim joint have been added to stiffen things up and further confine the unipalnar movement to one plane.
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Rick_A
Posted on Thursday, September 19, 2002 - 09:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I'm just elaborating on what Jmartz has said...which is entirely correct.

If you don't have them go with the updated isolator kit. It's made a big difference for me...as well as Bartells stiffener bushings from AmericanSportBike. As it was stock, it did tend to "fall" into turns (I think tires may have had a lot to do with this), the chassis upset easily with a front end weave when encountering mid corner bumps (steering dampener fixed that), and chassis movement caused a weave at higher loads/speeds in turns. The isolators/bushings took care of that. Frame braces are available for the front "V" tiebar mount...which contributes to a more solid feeling...and the newer bikes have an additional tiebar mount at the top motor mount...something I may eventually add. Some racers also add a tiebar vertically at the rear of the chassis/swingarm mount block. The stock bars I could never get used to...wind buffeting causes a lot of unwanted movement and IMO they offer too much leverage. Clip-ons feel perfect.
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Jayb
Posted on Thursday, September 19, 2002 - 03:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks guys!

My bike has had all the recalls done. Are the new isolators what would have been put in via the recall?

I have the crossroad performance bars..love em.
I also have a steering dampner. I seems like those braces that bolt onto the frame go pretty close the were my steering damper goes. You guys run both with no problems?

My bike has a bit over 6000 miles, and it doesn't feel like the steering head bearings are worn..or the wheel bearings.

My front tire is pretty worn (dunlop 205) planned on getting the rest of the season in on it. (another 2 months or so) Rear tire is a almost new 205 that came on the bike when I bought it.

I'll have to look into those Bartels bushings you spoke of. I have tons of stuff on my bike from them.

Thanks
Jay
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Blake
Posted on Thursday, September 19, 2002 - 06:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Jay,

If the bike rides fine for you, it is likely fine. You can adjust the turn-in characteristics by adjusting the front and rear sag (via preload adjustment). A more tail-up/nose-down attitude promotes the kind of handling your friend described. A more nose-up/tail-down attitude will make turn-in slower and require more effort. Measure your sag and adjust in 1/8" increments as desired.
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Redstripe
Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 02:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Blake;

I can relate to that. Yet, before making adjustments on the suspension/geometry to make up for knackered tires, I'd be having a look at a couple of new ones.

Jilles.
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