Author |
Message |
Snotrocket
| Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 10:00 am: |
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I am in the process of repainting the tank on my S3, it was layed down when I bought it and needs repainted. Anyway, I told my buddy about the decal problem and how the nylon tank actually alow gas vapor to leak through the tank. My buddy thought I should check to see if I have to do anything special to the tank before I paint the thing. For example to I have have to use some special type of primmer/additive so the paint will breathe or can I just paint the thing and call it a day? Also, I was wanting to have some air brushing done, it would be neat to see what everyone has done to their own tanks so I could get some ideas. If you have some cool Buell tank pictures, please post them. Thanks! |
Darthane
| Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 04:32 pm: |
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Snotrocket, Even if the gas tank itself did allow vapor to leak through the tank, there is an actual opening for pressure equalization within the tank, so I can't think of any reason that you can't use whatever type of paint will bond correctly and give you the color you want. Try checking out the Knowledge Vault's Painting section, though. There're some smart cookies on this board. Bryan |
Steveshakeshaft
| Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 09:35 am: |
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OK, disclaimer first! I'm an Engineer NOT a paint shop person. I painted a spare tank/body work set for my M2 a few months ago. I did this: (very briefly) peeled decals, rubbed down with #300 then #600 grade wet and dry. I didn't do more than remove the shine off the original paint, but getting rid of the decals "shadow" needed a fair bit of sanding. Cleaned the surface and made sure there were NO imperfections in the surface. Paint WON'T hide them! Sprayed with grey undercoat that said suitable for plastics on the can. Built up several coats then sanded using #600 wet and dry. Sprayed the colour, sanded using #600 then #1200 wet and dry. Applied decals and sprayed the final clear coat. Which is very thin and runs easily! Lightly sanded with #1200 wet and dry, rubbed with "T cut" and then finally polished with wax polish. Perfect! I have never painted anything before. The main thing is not to rush the job and not to be scared to start over if you aren't happy. It's called learning. Good luck. I sprayed General Motors Pearlescent Spectral Blue and it looks fine. |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 11:20 am: |
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I had a friend paint my 2000 M2 with a DuPont metallic silver base coat. He painted it with the same procedure he uses on the urethane fascias found on cars. I did the sanding and I took the original paint and primer/sealer all the way off. I thought I might have made a mistake taking the factory primer off, but the paint looks great after one year. No bubbling (yet?) and it actually looks better than factory paint. I've got the only silver M2 I've ever seen. |
Interceptor
| Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 08:22 pm: |
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I am doing the method stated above, by SteveShakeShaft. I am just spraying clear now. What is T Cut? And also, should I use liquid or hard wax? ...thanks in advance |
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