| Author | Message | ||
     X1jake |
I know I know I ask a lot of questions but here is one more... I was riding to work yesterday and in traffic my clutch lever became very loose. I would say the first inch of pulling it did nothing then it would engage as I got closer to the handle. It also made shifting harder than usual, and seemed to want to "almost" stay engaged while stopped lurking forward a bit when I didn't have the brakes pulled. It never died at a stop so there wasn't a lot of load on the engine. Just looking for a little advice where to look, does the clutch cable need a good lubing and adjustment, or should I be looking elsewhere down the line? Thanks for any help. (still need to pick up the repair manual...doh) Jake 2000 x1, 18,000 miles, have put around 2500 on it since buying it... | ||
| Dave |
Sounds like the cable needs adjusting. Just below the cable holder there is a rubber boot...look under the boot. There's a jam nut and adjuster. DAve | ||
| X1jake |
thanks dave, i will give that a shot. Jake | ||
| Aaomy |
sound like his jam nut may have come un jammed!! sounds like cable adjustment. but do pick up a manual,, and read it cover to cover.. that way if your out on the road and something dose go wrong you may already have an idea of what it is or how to properly adjust it to get your but back home.. for now you want a 1/16-1/8" of free play between your clutch cable shield and the clutch perch while your pulling out on the shield. hope this helps and get a manual.. will save your but. | ||
| Tramp |
and if you catch a clutch of perch any smaller, throw 'em back...they have size limits. | ||
| X1jake |
quick question, I have the 96/97 S1 shop manual on my computer just for basic reference, will the clutch adjustment be fairly close if not the same on these two bikes..? also as far as checking the primary levels and replacing the primary fluid, similar if not the same as the 96/97 S1? Jake | ||
| Dave |
SHould be the same Jake DAve | ||
| X1jake |
thanks again Dave. Jake | ||
| X1jake |
adjusted the tension in the clutch cable... got it where it should have been and it snapped... no more clutch for me!! called up illinois hd, they are picking it up Monday to have a look and give her a fix. thanks for extended warranties... oh well, gonna have them give it a good once over while it is in the shop and hopefully alert me to any future problems! Jake | ||
| Buelliedan |
Well know you know why it was acting up. You must have been on your last few strands of cable! I don't think clutch cables are covered by extended warranty so you are probably going to be charged healthily for that repair. You should have just bought a new cable and fixed it yourself. | ||
| Tramp |
remember that when i refer to perch, i mean yellow perch (flavescens sp.) | ||
| Rek |
you are probably going to be charged healthily for that repair Not totally true, My clutch cable needed replaced mid-trip a few weeks ago, $21.95 for the cable +$40.00 shop time. Felt purdy lucky getting off for less than $100 on any kind of shop repair, car or MC. Rob | ||
| Buelliedan |
I consider $40 for the labor to be excessive since it is about a 15 min job. | ||
| Tramp |
me too. | ||
| X1jake |
I guess I just figured that since I have had the ignition switch problem then this, and could also use a new set of treads I might as well get it all done at the same time along with a good once over. Jake | ||
| Oldog |
why is 1 hour excessive for a cable replacement? maybe there is a good short cut I dont know about. I have replaced my primary gasket and inspected the innards that took a while, part of that would be needed for replacement of the cable ( I'm not a professional mechanic either) but 40.00 for 1 hour IF the job is done correctly seems quite fair... I think a good tech would have something like 30 min in pulling the cover replacing the cable and button her up, a few checks, adjust the primary and maybe a quick test ride? sounds like you might have a good shop there Jake... One last thought the guys who wrench for a living & the shop owners have to MAKE A LIVING and have to do it right the first time 40.00$ CHEAP! | ||
| Dave |
The primary doesn't have to come off to replace the cable. Just the derby cover. DAve | ||
| Oldog |
Ok: not trying to be an a$$ here, maybe learn something.  the procedure? 1. slack the adjuster 2. remove the derby,quad ring & spring 3. back out adj screw,remove the hex plate 4. back out adj screw more,remove actuator 4. remove the cable end from the actuator 5. remove the cable from the housing ? 6. remove the cable sheath from case guide cable and all 7. remove cable from cycle 8. install cable & sheath on cycle routing as original, connect at lever end 9. pass cable end thru case guide, be sure to check oring before completing 10. place sheath in guide 11. fish out and connect cable end to actuator 12. assemble actuator to clutch, 13. install adjuster screw & hex plate 14. operate lever 3 or 4 times to set actuator 15. set initial adjustment 16. adjust cable free play 18. replace derby with quad ring, and spring 19. test is this the "quick" way?  | ||
| Buelliedan |
Almost correct but you do not remove cable from the sheath. It is one piece and is replaced as a unit. The actuator should not need to be fished out either unless clumsy. And as already said primary cover stays on just remove derby cover. About 15 mins for a mechanic who knows what they are doing. | ||
| Oldog |
Dan: thanks I knew that one piece was the case for the new cable. what I meant was the broken cable end or the new cable end to make the connection. (#5) I will accept clumsy, I could not figure out how to un hook the cable from the actuator with it still in the case, with out kinking it at the swaged end in the primary. Thats why I followed the FSM procedure and removed the actuator. I was some what un familliar with the inner workings of this beast. In your opinion it's OK to kink a cable near the swage? that was the only way I could see, (also one reason why I ask these questions) (Message edited by oldog on August 14, 2005) | ||
| Buelliedan |
If you loosen the clucth cable fully beforehand you can pull the cable quite a bit out of the primary without having to kink the cable. | ||
| Oldog |
gotcha!  missed that, (loosened it just not ATW) |
