| Author | Message | ||
     Doitindark |
I looked up old threads on changing tires. But I have a few questions. The harbor freight tire changer, do you need the motorcycle adapter for it? Do I still need to get tire irons to help take the tires off? Then for the harbor freight wheel balancer, has anyone used one? Does it work good? Thanks for the help. | ||
| Kelly |
There's a lot of info about this over on sacborg. There's even a short video of it. Do a search there and see what comes up. I'd do the research, or at least post some info, but I'm on my way to bed. I can say that you DO need the motorcycle adapter, and the changer WILL pay for itself in short time. | ||
| Blake |
Yes, you need the motorcycle adapter. No you shouldn't need tire irons to remove a tire. The one thing to know about using the harbor freight motorcycle tire changer is that when mounting a tire you gotta lube the inside surface of the 2nd tire bead to go on the wheel and you gotta keep it pressed down and in while you crank the tire iron around. It takes a bit of practice to become proficient at it. A video would be very cool if you can find it Kelly. Unfortunately the contents on SacBORG gets wiped after about three months once it hits the archives. I had no luck searching there for "Harbor" or "tire changer". | ||
| Bandm |
Slo-Joe's Tire Change Video from SacBORG Tire Changer Thread on the BORG | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Matt....I have the Harbor Freight changer with the adaptor. It really works well (once you get the hang of it). A couple of pointers (advise from my experience and that of others): 1) Mount it to a steady surface. I made a platform out of 2x4's to help stablize. 2) Use plenty of soapy water on the beads both for removal and installation 3) Practice with your old tires before installing the new ones. You don't want to ruin the bead on a new tire 4) You really need to make sure to get the bead inside the inner groove on the rim. I didn't understand this until I removed the tires. You'll see the inner groove of the rim. 5) I found that gaffers tape works well in a couple of areas. On the "clamps" to keep them from scratching the rim. And on the rim when installing the new tire. Again, prevents scratching. 6) Almost forgot....the "clamps" need to be reversed to hold the rim. You'll understand once you see the changer. The video helped a little. I was thinking about making one to host somewhere. Maybe with a little more instruction. As for the balancer....I bought a static balancer on ebay. It is unbelievably easy to use. And he includes VERY detailed instructions. Here's the link: Static Balancer | ||
| Prs |
Every thing Lake bueller said and one more thing, if it wasn't covered. Buy enough rim savers to go around the whole rim. Thread a string through the holes on the tabs and tie it down tight. This prevents them from falling off into the tire and it will save your fingers as well as your rims. The first couple of tires you do will fight you but once you do a couple you'll be swapping them out in no time. Remember, the dot on the tire is the light spot to be mounted in line with your valve stem. (Message edited by prs on April 18, 2005) | ||
| Pcmodeler |
You know, after looking at that changer, I may have to get one as well. Great tips offered here. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
"the dot on the tire is the light spot to be mounted in line with your valve stem Unless you have Michelin tires (they don't put marks on their tires). As a side note, both front an rear tires needed weight exactly opposite of the valve stem. They must make some very balanced tires. | ||
| Prs |
the dot on the tire is the light spot to be mounted in line with your valve stem Just did front and rear with Michelin Pilot Powers and they had a blue dot which we lined with the stem and kept the same weights on. Both tires were balanced with no additional weights needed. We just figured the blue dot was for the heavy spot. Other tires it's yellow. Either way, it's a good investment which will pay for itself after a few uses. I will no longer buy my tires at the shop and have them do it for $200 a tire. Friggin rape.  | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Be careful with Marchesini wheels. The coating appears to be paint, not power coating. It chips pretty easily. I too have a Harbor Freight changer. It works well. I need to get some of the rim savers. May have saved a couple of chips...... Note to self. Winter project... Have S2 wheels powder coated... Brad | ||
| Pcmodeler |
Suggestions for where to get rim savers? | ||
| Blake |
That video stops short of getting the tire all the way on the rim which is the one very difficult operation, stretching that top-side bead completely over the rim. I'd be surprised if Joe got it to work on that try. Great video otherwise. Rather than rim savers which have a tendency to fall off into the tire, try coating the business end of the tire iron with the plasti-coat dip stuff, and/or use old tire inner-tube. Rim savers that I am familiar with are for the small individual tire irons. Not sure they would work with the tire lever of the Harbor Freight unit. And yes, the one I bought also came with the wheel clamps mounted backwards. Let my Dad borrow it for its virgin use and he was in a cursing mood when I got over to see how he was doing. LOL!! On stretching that last/top-side bead over the rim... You gotta start with the tire iron's handle positioned so it can do an entire 360 degrees, from up against the red upright, all the way around to where it hits against the other side of the red upright. Key is to lubricate the inside of the topmost bead just before you stretch it over the rim. I find that a thin film of Go-Jo non-grit hand cleaner works great as tire mounting lubricant. The first/bottom-side bead goes on very easily, often without even needing a tire iron. The 2nd/top-side bead is the one that will give you trouble, but not too much if you listen to your irritating know-it-all friend Blake.  | ||
| Al_lighton |
Here's a couple other tips that you might find helpful. I don't use rim savers. I use cut up milk jugs. They work for a few tires, then I cut up another milk jug. they're thinner, and they pull out easily. Get three big spring clamps with vinyl coated tips. The ones that look kinda like big clothespins. Clip them about 5 inches apart on the side opposite from where you'll be doing the final stretch. They keep the tire from riding up on the bead, which gives the necessary slack to get them on. There's other ways to do that, but I've found the clamps to be the easist to use. I don't use the big red bar, I just use three tire irons. It is MUCH easier with an assistant to hold the two irons you've already used while you do the third, then have them hold the third one while you remove the previous one to hop over. With a helper, I can put one on in about 2 minutes. And I haven't scratched a wheel yet doing it. Al | ||
| M1combat |
Good call with the milk jugs Al... Very nice  . I'll be using that tip tomorrow to mount a new tire for the springfast . I'll only be using two irons though... Any tips on breaking the bead w/o a bead breaker of any sort? | ||
| Rek |
Any tips on breaking the bead w/o a bead breaker of any sort? Let the air out of the tire and ride the bike around until the bead breaks? Rob | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Al, I also discovered the milk jug trick. However, I do use the big red bar. I cut a strip of the thickest part of the jug and taled it to the business end of the red bar. It acts as a glide strip for the bar on the edge of the rim. I'm going to try the clamp trick on the next tire. Sounds like it should work well. Brad | ||
| Al_lighton |
Well, beads can be a real bear to break. We used a big vise up at Oktoberfast last year on Mike's rear tire. I have used the tongue jack of my trailer before when out on the road, it actually worked pretty good. We used a portable bead breaker up at Ferris's last Oktoberfast on Scott Pages tire, it was effective and they aren't real expensive. I tried to find a picture on the web, but couldn't. I can get one for you if you want. I'll be bringing mine to Springfast, so you'll get to see what it looks like. Al | ||
| Road_thing |
M1: I use a big C-clamp to break the bead off the rim. Alternatively, you can lay the wheel flat on the ground and jump up and down on the tire to pop the bead loose, just be sure you've protected the bottom of the wheel so you don't bend it or scratch it. rt | ||
| Fullpower |
six inch C-clamp easily breaks bead on XB wheels. use some soapy water or a real rubber lubricant product such as RuGlyde to ease the process. | ||
| Kelly |
The tire changer has a bead breaker built in. | ||
| Doitindark |
Does everyone change out the valve core when you change tires? What about the valve stem it self? | ||
| M1combat |
Thanks Al and Thing... I really just need to go get a big C-Clamp. I used the jump up and down on it method for the front and it's a real bitch. I was just wondering if there was anything easier because I need to do it tonight and I won't be able to get a bead braker tonight... Thanks again, see you guys this weekend . | ||
| New12r |
Pay $12 dollars and have someone who does this everyday do it for you, the hassle in changing tires on the ground with hand equipment is not worth the effort. | ||
| M1combat |
Right. I like to do things myself, and after a bit of practice, it's worth it. Also... I used to do that, then they destroyed the powder coat on one side about 1/2 way around the wheel. They replaced the rim, but now they won't touch my bike. There's another little shop that could do it, but I need it done tonight... I may go that route, but if it's too late, I can't. | ||
| Charlieboy6649 |
I've become pretty proficient and gladly change my own. Save a bundle in labor, enough in two changes to buy a new set! I have a HF changer and it works great. ***another tip from my local HD shop*** Silicon spray is the shiznit on the beads. Tires fly right on and perfect seating every time. Just be very careful not to get any on the tire contact surface for obvious reasons... | ||
| Swampy |
I have samwiched the tire between two 2X6s before, then with careful observation, drove a car tire up on the 2X6s. Works for me! I don't own a vice big enough(YET!) Shops make you wait around for hours while the mechanics talk, then act like you are bothering them. I have never seen anyone smile yet, maybe they just don't like working on bikes? Most of the local shops just don't get it yet. Plus I don't have a Buell service facility within two hours drive one way. Thank goodness I can buy things online! (Message edited by swampy on April 19, 2005) | ||
| Aaomy |
all you need to balance your tires is a precision ground shaft and two bearings, it dosent take any special machine,, something like a 1/2" ground bearing shaft and two good bearing works perfect. think mine is actually 15 mm because those were the spare bearings i had! no the shaft dosent have to be the same size as the axle, mine actually rotates better than the cone style, stores easily and is cheep, when i want it i put the shaft threw the axle bore, place a bearing on each end of the shaft and place the bearings on two dinning room chairs. then so long as you have gravity in your area,, it dose the rest, use masking tape to tape a 1/4 oz weight to the top and rotate wheel slightly , wait,, wait,, repeat un till stop point becomes random,, ps the shop in my area only balanced to 1/2 oz,, i like mine to the nearest 1/4. if your stuck between weights and cant decide what to do , your with in a 1/4 oz and i was told its better to be light. bead breaker,, thought that was the drunk guy next to me at mardi gras | ||
| Charlieboy6649 |
I bought a Metzler static balancer from SW moto tire and used it for the first time yesterday. I also used 1/4 oz weights. 1. hang tire, heavy end goes to bottom. 2. Rotate tire 90 deg, heavy end goes to bottom, make mark on top. 3. Rotate tire 90 deg the other way, heavy end goes to bottom, make mark. 4. place weight in-between marks. 5. Repeat till balanced and the tire doesn't rotate to bottom. I had mine double checked at the shop spin balancer, since it was my first time and 100 mph isn't the time to find out you've screwed it up, and what ya know, it was perfect! I only have one discrepancy with a remark on this thread. My tire had two red dots, I was told that was the heavy end and placed it opposite the stem. I think I was told right cuz I only had to use one 1/4 oz weight to balance the thing. My dealer put the dots at the stem and used 5! on the previous tire... (Message edited by charlieboy6649 on April 19, 2005) | ||
| Charlieboy6649 |
Funny story... Our HD shop owner hired a guy to help out, oil changes, bolt chrome etc. Well he tells the guy to change out the tire on a bike explaining that "the dot goes here." Every street tire has D.O.T. on it right. You'll never guess what this guy lined up with the stem... LOL  | ||
| Prs |
Suggestions for where to get rim savers? http://www.competitionaccessories.com As others have mentioned, the milk jug thing works but rim savers are cheap and they last a long time. I prefer to be real careful when changing tires on my PM wheels. Just my $.02. | ||
| Bandm |
Most custom automotive wheels come with nice plastic rings that snap around the outer lip to protect them during shipping. Stop by your local tire shop and ask for some 17 inch ones, as they just throw them away. I use them on my rim clamp changer to protect the bottom clamped part of motorcycle wheels. They also work well for spooning on tires, but only last a for a couple tires. Mark | ||
| Doitindark |
Does anyone have problmes using soap and water for lubing up the tire for removal and installation? Problems with tire slipping on the rim do to the soap thats on there |
