| Author | Message | ||
     Toomanytoys |
seems to be a frequent topic. read this same problem a little while back, but could not find it. was out riding yesterday. shut the bike down for lunch (used the stop switch as always) and when i came out to start the bike again, there was no power getting to the fuel pump. turned the key on, and the electricals were getting power. odometer came on, lights were on, horn worked, and the blinkers worked. neutral light did not come on, and the pump did not kick in. the light that tells you the engine is doing its check never came on either (check engine light). suggestions would be appreciated, or direction to similar discussions in the past. Thank you in advance. oh yeah, and took apart the stop switch/starter button housing, and all looked well in there. connection being made, and no corrosion or such. needed to add that the bike is a 99 X1. (Message edited by toomanytoys on April 04, 2005) | ||
| Blackbelt |
did you try to pull in the clutch? maybe you weren't in neutral? just a couple quick checks.. | ||
| Azbueller |
Kick stand up?? | ||
| Toomanytoys |
haha, yeah, i tried pulling in the clutch. even rolled it back and forth a few times for good measure. neutral light never came on. kick stand up, but the switch has been disconnected anyways. (Message edited by toomanytoys on April 04, 2005) | ||
| Ted |
Thats something I've wondered about. Is there any benefit or harm in shutting down by turning the key to "off, instead of the shutoff switch? It took me awhile to get used to the switch... | ||
| 99x1 |
..odometer came on, lights were on, horn worked, and the blinkers worked. neutral light did not come on, and the pump did not kick in." The odometer/horn/blinkers all power off the Accessory fuse, (odometer is not on the Instruments fuse, and the turn lamps are not on the Lights fuse!). The Accessory fuse is fed from the first position of the key switch, common problem for key switch to go bad and not make the contact on the second position. Pull the connector to the key switch behind the flyscreen and short all 3 terminals together. PS: Your brake lamp probably still works? (The tail light and the park bulb in the headlamp are also on the Accessory circuit). | ||
| 99x1 |
"... any benefit or harm in shutting down by turning the key to "off, instead of the shutoff switch?" The shutoff switch drops out the ignition relay, while turning the key just opens everything. With the ignition relay down, the key switch would have less power to switch off (~8-10 amps? for the ignition, fuel pump, injectors, ECM, sensors), which would then probably be easier on the key switch contacts? Probably not a lot of real world difference though.... but it might be a Good Thing if the default reaction was to hit the kill switch in an emergency? | ||
| Hootowl |
Try wiggling the key a few times and pushing down while turning the key. Those switches are pieces of shiza. They live longer if you route the solenoid current through a relay by the way. | ||
| Toomanytoys |
99x1, you are right about the taillight and parking lamp in the headlight still working, and that would make sense about the key switch going bad. will check it when i get home in about half an hour. as for the shutoff switch, i just do it because that is how I was taught from the time i started riding bikes, and it is the same for snowmobiles. i think the explanation about taking a load off the relays is fairly accurate. | ||
| Tank_bueller |
Mine did the same..........but I had it in gear. Maybe a bad neutral switch??????? $.02 | ||
| Ethanr |
I had a rather similar problem, but it was intermittent. I'd have no trouble starting the bike in the morning. When I tried again later in the day, all the lights would come on, etc. but go black when I hit the starter. Wait 5 minutes, it'd fire right up. Turned out my battery was bad. | ||
| 99x1 |
"Maybe a bad neutral switch?" Nope, his oil pressure lamp isn't coming on, so the Instruments fuse isn't getting power - which is a different circuit then the neutral interlock. As well, he has the sidestand switch bypassed (shorted), so the ignition relay (but not the start relay) would still work if the neutral switch was defective.  The diodes are a one way valve to electricity so that the neutral lamp only lights with the neutral switch closed, not from pulling in the clutch or putting up the sidestand. I'm still betting on a bad key switch..... (Message edited by 99X1 on April 05, 2005) | ||
| Toomanytoys |
you were correct 99x1. pulled the harness last night, and shorted all three terminals together as you suggested. fuel pump kicked on, and it fired right up. Anyone have an ignition they need to get rid of? otherwise will have to stop at the dealer on the way home. will the new ignition come with a new key then? will I need to carry two keys so i can get under my seat then? Thank you all for your suggestions. don't know what i would do without the wealth of knowledge available to me on the Badweb. | ||
| Knickers |
Give the dealer the key code for your current lock set (or they can look it up if you give them your VIN) and they'll order a new switch set up for your current keys. Takes a little longer to get the part delivered this way, but its worth it to not have to re-key the whole bike. | ||
| Blackbelt |
BOO YA!!! it is awesome to figure out a tough problem like that, Glad to see you got it all figured out. Now how's about you come over to my house and help me w/ a headlight motor problem i have w/ my 83 Trans Am project.. lol |
