| Author | Message | ||
     Conv90 |
Is it possible to remove/replace rocker covers, heads .. cylinders etc from a tubber without remove the whole engine from the frame? I mean removing the tank, and working from top. Whit a sportster is simple because there is no frame tubes around.. | ||
| Falloutnl |
Yep, totally possible. Only thing we ran into was that it's not possible to use a torque wrench on one of the smaller allen bolts on the rear head (when closing everything up), so you have to do that by feel. But that's not that big an issue. | ||
| Conv90 |
FalloutNL, Thank you. Is there some cautions on removing/disconnecting the front motor mount (isolator mount) and or the threaded tie bars? | ||
| 89rs1200 |
If you do want to remove the engine: ~ Note where the washers are above and below the front motor mount. Very important to put them back in the right place. Affects the alignment of the motor in the chassis. ~ Now would be a good time to replace the front motor mount bolts, before they break, with the proper grade 8 or 9 bolts. Realize the threads need to be the same length as original, or that will create weakness in the connection. Very important to follow the service manual on installation and to oil the hardened washers. ~ Remove the tie bars before the rubber mounts. ~ Motor will be quite unstable when removing the chassis up and out, so watch for that. ~ Front tie bar, bolt at the frame. Recommend putting it on with the nut facing forward. Will need to do this with the oil filter off. Why? Because the nut and bolt can puncture the oil filter during a mild crash. This will stop one from getting home. (Message edited by 89rs1200 on April 04, 2023) | ||
| Conv90 |
89rs1200, thank you , precious info! I don't want to remove the engine. I'm planning only to check for valve seals, and valve guides, I have to remove the heads to perform checks. IF I can NOT remove the engine I'd prefer. That said, you said: "Note where the washer is below the front motor mount. Very important to put it back in the right place. Affects the alignment of the motor in the chassis" see the pic is it normal that this distance is about 12mm? (1/2")?? (washer not visible in this pic , but obviously it's just over the top flat side of the aluminum motor mount). See the 2 white lines . this distance is about 12mm   | ||
| 89rs1200 |
~ First, correction; There are two washers, one above and one below the front rubber motor mount. ~ Looks like a space, but is not. Inside that rubber mount there is a molded in pipe which extends down to touch the washer above the motor mount. ~ Front head valve cover. As seen in your first photo, tight fit between the Left corner of the valve cover spacer and the motor mount. Chances are you will not get that spacer off, over the bolt inside, without filing some of that valve cover spacers corner about 1/16" or less. | ||
| Conv90 |
1) yes, there are two washers one below (shown) and one above (not visible in the pic) 2) there is connection not a space, the top and bottom are connected . The pic is dark , the shape is like a mushroom. See my scheme and mushroom shape, and I ask if that 12mm is normal or it needs to be less.. 3) yes , Left corner of the valve cover spacer and the motor mount are almost in contact!  | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Nice drawing! ~ Yes that space is normal. If there was a problem, you would see the larger part of the rubber torn. ~ There are no problems shown. ~ By the way, torn rubber isolator would not be dangerous, just annoying and need to replace the rubber isolator. That D-wassher is just too big to fall down that hole in the frame. ~ Some history, Buell used softer rubber for this isolator than used by Harley-Davidson for their FLT & FXR. With luck you may find that original part. ~ For more information see; https://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/47 623/670515.html | ||
| Falloutnl |
"Is there some cautions on removing/disconnecting the front motor mount (isolator mount) and or the threaded tie bars?" Like 89rs1200 said, if you're removing the front motor mount, it's a good idea to replace the bolts. As for the tie bars, I think it's said that you shouldn't remove those because they're torqued in some really specific way, but we did it when rebuilding our S1 (my dad and I) and had no real problems. We replaced the isolator and the motor mount and that was kind of a challenge to get right though. Lots of washers and other stuff with very specific orientations. You can ask Twin Motorcycles for help if you need it since you're pretty close (in Belgium right?). They had the correct bolts as well for the mount. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Re: tie bars, the rule I heard was don't ADJUST them, simply remove and replace without changing their length. They ARE the motor alignment system. Mark them, remove them, and install them exactly as they were. | ||
| Conv90 |
It's curious like my bike shakes at fast idle (around 1200-1500 rpm on the stand). The frame, the front forks, the wheel are shaking and the engine seems almost static/frozen . Even with me on it (only 130 lbs) difficult to check while on the road. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
"It's curious like my bike shakes at fast idle (around 1200-1500 rpm on the stand). The frame, the front forks, the wheel are shaking and the engine seems almost static/frozen ." I've noticed that same thing and thought it was pretty odd. You'd think the motor would be shaking inside the frame, but the motor looked like it was staying perfectly still, while me and the bike shook around it. | ||
| Conv90 |
Back in topic: So if I have to remove rocker cover, no problem. if I want to check rockers and/or replace with roller rockers NO-problem. But if I want to remove the Heads...? What if I remove the 2 Big bolts securing the front head? (without removing the isolator and without removing the front Motor mount). 1) the front side of the engine will tilt down? IF yes, (sure it will ... and it will bend something...) 2) If I put a block of wood or a "scissor lift stand" under the engine to support it (to avoid the front side of engine will tilt down), will the top side of the frame tilt down? Or if I let the front wheel to the ground this will not happens? Which are ALL the points where the engine is hung to the frame? I'm accustomed to my rigid mount Sportster, so I never had problems for the top end works. the engine is always bolted IN TO the frame and it never fall down. (Message edited by Conv90 on April 05, 2023) | ||
| Blake |
I don't think the engine will drop/rotate if you just remove the two bolts holding front isolator bracket to the cyl head. I could be mistaken. I've only ever removed the engine in entirety, not just rotated/dropped it. Of course you also need to disconnect the two tie-bar adjustable links, being sure to ensure they go back in without changing their length. | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Actually three tie-bar adjustable links. Will also need to unbolt one end of the tie-bar adjustable link at the swing arm. Will cause binding there if not done. | ||
| Ratbuell |
You can do the job without rotating anything, there's room. You need a "special" allen key for the rocker box lids, or you can cut one down so it just barely makes the 90 degree turn into the bolt head. That's how short you need it to be. The Jim's tool is that short, but it has a rounded end on it giving you some "wiggle" room... | ||
| Conv90 |
The FM says you have to remove the front cylinder head WITHOUT removing the front isolator mount from the HEAD. It says also: " Do not attempt to remove the front isolator mount from front cylinder head. Isolator mount is an integral component (of theh front head) and is not meant to be removed" It says to remove carb, tank, exhaust... coil , horn ..etc.... then it says: "At this stage, the lower rocker boxes, the cylinder heads and the cylinders may be removed".. But it says to remove the front isolator mount FROM FRAME only 3 pages later... I will never understand the FM. Obvious things are explained for pages like you are a stupid.... then when you really need to understand something in a better accurate way, it says nothing. | ||
| 89rs1200 |
NOTE! Do NOT reuse those two bolts! They are stressed when installed and not safe to reuse. Yes, those two bolts were never intended to be removed because it holds the frame to the engine, which is part of the frame assembly. Suspect Buell was afraid someone would replace those bolts, with some found in a hardware store. Those would fail. As time went on, and added experience, grade 9 bolts of a specific thread length were found to be a good replacement. I have had three of the stock bolts break at the cylinder head. Usually rust and corrosion were found on the bolt. Have not had a replacement bolt from American Sport Bike (American Sport Bike) fail after many tens of thousands of miles. | ||
| Led |
I DID put some chrome rocker covers on my 96' Lightening...... I had to custom cut the Allen screw wrench to fit under the frame.... It IS TIGHT under there!!! |
