| Author | Message | ||
     Jolly |
As you guys install these I’d probably(?) use red loctite for the return spring pin.... I don’t think you ever want to take that out, or work it’s way out. Thread that in once by itself, it’s a tight tolerance fit, then loctite (of your choice) for install Post some photos when done!! | ||
| Jolly |
1st one installed! https://www.facebook.com/987908121219341/posts/215 8455707497904/ | ||
| F_stop |
Hi all. Was lucky to snag 1 of the piggyback sideplate kickstand mods from Jolly, and took him up on his offer to supply the stand itself, etc. Finally got it installed about 10 days ago, great quality and design. This will be my 1st attempt at attaching some pix.   | ||
| F_stop |
Note to self--resize pics even smaller next time! | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
Finally put mine on. I did it with the plate installed on the bike with a 12v cordless hacksaw and a dremel. Took about an hour and a half with the kids interrupting me lol.    | ||
| Ebutch |
Two Very Sharp S2's !!!!!!!!!  | ||
| Essmjay |
I like that my ex #1192 and your #1193 are both Yellow Jacket Pearl. Looking good! | ||
| Tripper |
Ok so what’s the trick to getting the spring on? | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
I use a philips screwdriver. Extend the kickstand. Hook the spring to the plate, put the screwdriver in the other end of the spring. Put the screwdriver on the kickstand spring peg and lever it a little to stretch the spring, then continue to lever - sliding tbe spring down the screwdriver until you can pull out the screwdriver and the spring seats in tbe groove. It’s not easy, always takes me a few tries. | ||
| Ebutch |
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RE3NAVpAwA | ||
| Tripper |
Well that was easy. Using a combination of the suggestions above it took me 5 minutes. That spring sure did damage to 8 pennies. A little grinding was required to let the stand retract without interference. Tomorrow I will mount it to the bike. Finish grinding to the sideplate required and drill one hole. | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
Yeah, mine binds in the up position, I thought it was just the powder coat making it thicker. I may grind on mine a bit too. | ||
| Jolly |
Here is the challenge I found myself n while working with these parts and others as I tried to improve original design... tolerances in original mfg created the need for a tolerance in the part. this is not something specific to Buell, however, these tolerances were a little more loose at times than in other manufacturing processes. The kickstand tolerances were not extreme by any means, only subtle, but it required a capability in the machined part to accept any kickstand from any mfg batch of kickstand spread across the year range of 1998 - 2002... I wanted to stick with Buell kickstands to keep the part and the fix within a Buell sourced part. The S2 kickstand is a block at the pivot point which means its insert dimension and its pivot dimension are equal dimensions. the new style kickstand had to have an open slot for the pivot but then close back down to the dimension of the kickstand tube/leg for the kickstand. it was best to set the tight dimension at the extension and the retraction points with the insertion point in the center. The only other option would have been to design the point with a cap that bolted over the kickstand once it was set in place then bolt the close out cap over it, in this design option the pivot arc cold be one single dimension to just clearance the kickstand itself without having to accomodate the dimension of the pivot pin tube, however it would have added to bulk and complexity and clearly not a clean design. the strength or pull of the spring that keeps the kickstand "locked" forward is what pulls the kickstand down against the rear slot as it retracts. I had thought about setting that bottom edge as more of a ramp, but the tolerances differences in the kickstands and the coating used was enough of a tolerance difference that I decided to keep it more of a slot. for some, it might require a small hand file to round off the edge of the bottom of the retraction slot into slightly more of a ramp, but you will want to only slightly change this as you want the kickstand secure in the channel. | ||
| Bsanorton |
Sorry, new to S2's. Always had 99's to 02' tubers. I just came home with one because the price was so low. How can I purchase this mod? | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
Jolly (David Ellingson) may have one or two left, not sure. PM me and I can send you his phone #. | ||
| Bsanorton |
Thank you. David reached out to me. | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
Awesome! | ||
| Bsanorton |
Had a wonderful conversion with Dave. Brought this novice with S2's up to speed, lol! | ||
| Bsanorton |
Had a wonderful conversion with Dave. Brought this novice with S2's up to speed, lol! | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
Yes, it’s a shame how low value these bikes are and it makes owners think the parts are cheap to manufacture or should be... as you may be noticing, the kickstand fix is cheap compared to sourcing or repairing/repainting bodywork lol | ||
| Jolly |
Shipped today, you should have it Wednesday! | ||
| Bsanorton |
Excellent, can't wait to get the metal working tools out, lol! Thanks again | ||
| Bsanorton |
Almost done     | ||
| Bsanorton |
Almost ready to bolt on....   | ||
| Kc_zombie |
Love the coin idea, well played! | ||
| 4speeder |
Back in the day we used to open up hood springs that way to get them back on. We put one end of the spring in the vise then pulled it one direction and stacked large flat washers in the coils then pulled the spring back the other direction and stacked washers on the opposite side. After a couple rounds of this the springs were long enough to put back on the hood hinges. | ||
| Bsanorton |
Before (with a 1" square piece of iron bolted to the foot of the old kickstand).  After:    | ||
| E30bradley |
I’m interested, are any still available? | ||
| Jolly |
I believe I have at least one more, I will check tomorrow. | ||
| Jhbuell |
I’m interested in one Jolly, do you have any more? |
