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Archive through January 25, 2021Upthemaiden30 01-25-21  08:09 am
         

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34nineteen
Posted on Monday, January 25, 2021 - 11:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you use aftermarket chrome tubes, they slip on really easy. I think Hammer Dan was using OE pushrod tubes that had been painted/powdercoated.

When I bought my bases, I also purchased new tubes from Hammer and was ready for a fight, but that fight never came as they were super easy to install.
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Falloutnl
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2021 - 05:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Upgrading to the Hammer pushrod bases sounds like a good plan someday, but I've watched the video of Dan installing them on an engine, and considering even he had to fight with them a little, I'm sure it'll turn into a legitimate afternoon project for me just to get those on.

I have those (the Hammer bases) and the old man and I still had to redo them when the gaskets turned out to leak after the first attempt.

My dad ended up going with those collapsible pushrods from Zipper (I think they're called, or Zodiac maybe?) for his M2. Also kind of a hassle to install, but a little bit more fool proof when you've got everything in place.

If I ever get leaking pushrod cover gaskets again, and by that I mean once is enough, I'm also ordering a pair of those.
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Screamer
Posted on Tuesday, January 26, 2021 - 10:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I’ve posted this info before - so I apologize for the repeat post.
If you’ve experienced repeated issues with leaks at the pushrod cover tubes, you may want to examine them the next time you have the rocker boxes removed.
There was period when the tolerance on the location of the first diameter change (from the top) would wander.
The difference in location, can contribute to chronic leak issues.
If the distance from the top to the first diameter change (o-ring shoulder) is excessive, like the top cover in the photos, it will be prone to leak issues.
I’ve heard that some have used two o-rings to resolve the problem, but it’s best to replace the cover.





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Falloutnl
Posted on Friday, January 29, 2021 - 10:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Right, that was me, Screamer. Mine leaked from the top as well, solved it by using 2 o rings. Though if they act up again, I'll replace the covers, thanks for the tip.
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34nineteen
Posted on Friday, January 29, 2021 - 03:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for that advice Screamer. I will hopefully be putting my S1 motor back together in the upcoming months and will keep an eye on that as well.

Was this with the HD OE pushrods or aftermarket?
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Screamer
Posted on Saturday, January 30, 2021 - 12:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

3419,
Yes, it was original pushrod covers (not the pushrods).
When the engines were originally assembled, the bottom retainer came with the tapered seal (that installs at the bottom of the pushrod cover) glued to the inside of the retainer. When the seal was glued to the retainer, it apparently would hold the pushrod in place regardless of dimensions at the top of the cover.
When the engine is disassembled for repair and new seals used - the incorrect top dimensions on the cover become a factor and made it difficult to seal.
We had dealers and racers that tried a variety of solutions - including multiple o-rings, but replacement was the most reliable solution.
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