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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through August 16, 2021 » Repair of crack on 1999 m2 cyclone muffler « Previous Next »

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Cbert
Posted on Sunday, January 10, 2021 - 04:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Buellers: I discovered my muffler on my 99 m2 has a crack running half way around the pipe that connects the muffler to the header pipe. Is this a chronic issue for the muffler? If so can a repair weld do? Or should I look for replacement muffler?
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89rs1200
Posted on Sunday, January 10, 2021 - 04:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Get it welded. Should not cost that much.
Remember, welds done right are stronger than the original metal.
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Gusm2
Posted on Sunday, January 10, 2021 - 05:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check out the engine mounts and swinging arm mounts, when they are broken/worn that's often the cause of the exhaust failing
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Ebutch
Posted on Sunday, January 10, 2021 - 09:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Gordon Nice Action Shot in Your Profile!
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Screamer
Posted on Monday, January 11, 2021 - 12:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Find and install the dogbone “y-style” of front exhaust mount - if you don’t already have one.
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Gusm2
Posted on Monday, January 11, 2021 - 12:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ebutch

Thanks
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Hawgford
Posted on Monday, January 11, 2021 - 05:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I highly recommend you don;t go to a muffler shop. A pro welder will lay down a much purtier bead and if possible Tig it.. To save time and money, get the area super clean shiny scuffed metal. a flap wheel will do the trick

(Message edited by hawgford on January 11, 2021)
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Ebutch
Posted on Monday, January 11, 2021 - 07:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

& mount to Spec. that's very important! You may have early Race can they where Fragile.Click on 2nd race can
https://www.google.com/search?lr=&as_qdr=all&sxsrf =ALeKk00hbXUYGjJCh53I1X8V5gOxNHFmYw:1610411615705& source=univ&tbm=isch&q=early+buell+race+muffler+si te:www.badweatherbikers.com&safe=images&sa=X&ved=2 ahUKEwjr4a7ikpXuAhVlvlkKHQb2ALgQjJkEegQIBRAB
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Ebutch
Posted on Monday, January 11, 2021 - 07:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Then click on race can on Right takes to badweb forum on cans.
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89rs1200
Posted on Monday, January 11, 2021 - 08:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have an S3 with the original aluminum race can. First all the pop-rivets at the rear came out. Replaced them with sheet metal screws. Then it cracked right around the perimeter.
Good news is the race exhaust exits straight back, so I replaced the muffler with a 15" long Supertrapp, with 2 1/2" inlet.

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/855178.html
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