| Author | Message | ||
     Buellbum |
i loosened-up the chain on my X1 and that helped but it still shifts hard. any suggestions? | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Make sure your clutch & cable are adjusted properly. I think I had the biggest effect on mine from messing around with the shift linkage. Does yours have the old boomerang shifter, or the newer style? I'd assume if it's a 2002 you have the updated shifter. When my 97' had the boomerang shifter on it, there was so much play in the shifter, but I eventually got it shifting pretty decently when everything was just right. I've got the updated one on there now, and it doesn't actually shift quite as well as it did, but this one doesn't shake and rattle nearly as much as it used to, so I deal with it. | ||
| 34nineteen |
I wound up buying the bronze bushing kit from Twin and did a bunch of careful lapping on a spacer to take up the additional play. It now barely moves from side to side. However, I also picked up a NOS upgraded shifter kit. | ||
| Normthenomad |
Check shifter pawl.The star shaped thingie on shifter shaft inside the primary. | ||
| 34nineteen |
Also make sure your fluid level isnt too high. I've found that the "quart out- quart in" rule of thumb is a little too much for my bikes, especially an XB. You could also have a leak at the crank seal which is dribbling oil into the primary raising the fluid level. (Message edited by 34nineteen on December 03, 2020) | ||
| Bd3 |
Other possibilities making it nearly impossible to properly adjust ones clutch for smooth shifting include: a bad clutch throw out bearing or worn clutch ramp. | ||
| Victory |
most likely a screwed clutch pack. | ||
| Kc_zombie |
Have you pulled the clutch for inspection? If not that should be step 1. | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Hold on folks. Don't tear down first. First do what Upthemaiden recommends; Check both cable length and adjuster; "Make sure your clutch & cable are adjusted properly. I think I had the biggest effect on mine from messing around with the shift linkage." Also 34ninteen; All my Buells take noticeably less than a quart of SportTrans fluid. One quart leads to hard shifts. If the oil is dirty like engine oil, then there is a leak from the crank case; "Also make sure your fluid level isn't too high". Lastly Bd3; "a bad clutch throw out bearing or worn clutch ramp". Then tear it down, Install the latest shift pawl & double check its adjustment, (about $5.00 from Harley-Davidson), check clutch pack. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I always just dump an even quart into my primary, and it fills up to where the manual says it does. I feel like I should try a little less and see if it affects my shifting at all. How much less oil are you guys putting in there? I did replace the shift pawl on mine, worth doing if you're in there, but I can't say I noticed a huge difference when I did it. It's nothing I'd expect to fix any bad shifting problems. | ||
| Bd3 |
I agree with 89rs1200's order of precedence for checking. To add, if you find that the primary oil level is high [and you are sure that you did not overfill], then the main-shaft-seal likely needs replacing. In addition to hard shifting due to high oil level, an indicator of a bad main-shaft-seal is oil discharge out of the transmission vent. | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Also, smoother and easier shifting comes from using synthetic SportTrans oil. SportTrans oil is about 80 weight. Harley will not say. When filling the transmission, my 1997-1998 S3s use all but about 1/2" of oil left in the bottle. Yes that little bit makes a difference. | ||
| Victory |
Thats also a good point. ENGINE SPROKET SHAFT SEAL. The OG seal is a single surface POS.Mine was brittle as hell and had to have been seeping years prior to replacement. New seal has two surfaces. The Seals race that is mentioned to replace with the seal is Obsolete. The new seal uses two surfaces so you should reuse it. My seal started puking around 2015 I think. HD Dealer clearance the old Sport Trans Fluid. The new stuff is Formula + or Syn 3 you should be using Sport Trans Lube not motor oil. The motor oil is not a good choice for the trans. The correct lube for your primary & trans is Sport Trans Lube. It is high shear gear oil with no friction modifiers. It is marketed by Drag Specialties - Gear & Chaincase for Sportster Bikers Choice - Sport Trans Lube Bel Ray - Sport Transmission Fliud Twin Power - Sport Trans Lube Klotz - Gear & Chaincase for Sportster RevTech - Gear & Chain (Message edited by victory on December 08, 2020) | ||
| Buellbum |
sorry for the delay: I'm going to start with the easy stuff first. i adjusted my primary chain and the cable and that helped. i'm going to adjust that cable some more. "I wound up buying the bronze bushing kit from Twin..." from where did you buy this kit? my shifter is super loose. } | ||
| _buelligan_ |
TWIN AS IN TWIN MOTORCYCLES (WWW.TWINMOTORCYCLES.NL) I ASSUME IS WHAT HE MEANT. THEY ARE A GREAT SOURCE FOR BUELL PARTS BUT IT WILL TAKE A LITTLE WHILE TO GET BECAUSE THEY ARE IN THE NETHERLANDS. | ||
| Buellbum |
i'll check them out.... today i adjusted my clutch and cable and it's better. not great though so i'll adjust that cable a bit more tomorrow. by contrast, i just bought a VMax and a butterfly could shift it. it's a beast though. | ||
| 34nineteen |
Twin (Motorcycles) has been using DHL recently and shipping times havent been too bad. |
