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Adrenaline_junkie
Posted on Friday, November 27, 2020 - 01:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

August: bought low miles X1. Running strong.

Brought it home. Immediately stopped running strong. Spitting and sputtering, low on power.

Bought code reader. Code reader said Intake Air Temp sensor and O2 sensor. Replaced both.
Cleared codes and reset ECU to original factory setting.

Eventually get it started. Still running very poorly. Ran it long enough to get warm.

Front cylinder warm, rear cylinder cold.

Pulled spark plugs. Not great but both make blue spark no matter which wire I plug them into.

So I've got spark.
Apparently I've got fuel pressure because the front cylinder fires.
At this point I'm suspicious of the rear injector..... Or the
ECU that controls it.

I've only put about 10 miles on it since I bought it and on the day I bought it the front tire came up easily. Now it won't pull itself out of the garage without slipping the clutch.

Thoughts, comments, suggestions?
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Mnscrounger
Posted on Friday, November 27, 2020 - 02:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A quote I read on BadWeb years ago, written by a much more knowledgeable Buell owner than me:
"Unless proven otherwise, its the probably the engine temp sensor."
I've replace three over the years. when they fail, the motor goes into a "limp" mode that disables the spark on the rear cylinder.
That would explain two of your symptoms.
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Akbuell
Posted on Friday, November 27, 2020 - 04:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What he said.

In my case, when the eng temp sensor went wonky, I had a cascade list of fault codes.

If you have the time and inclination, swap the injectors front for rear and see if the problem follows. Might be worth a try while waiting on the new eng temp sensor.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Adrenaline_junkie
Posted on Friday, November 27, 2020 - 04:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys. I actually have the temp sensor in the garage. I'll change it ASAP.
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Victory
Posted on Friday, November 27, 2020 - 08:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was going to say temp sensor too. You need to use ecm spy to make sure temp is over 120 degrees and temp reading is steady or going up and not erratic. If erratic the sensor is trash. When over the 120 degree spec you must reset TPS!

Wow - didnt know it could go into limp mode. I just experienced some surging and overall crap running sometimes.

BTW HD told dealers all five sensors needed replaced after 5 years. TMMV



(Message edited by victory on November 27, 2020)
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Adrenaline_junkie
Posted on Saturday, November 28, 2020 - 07:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

5 sensors:
O2
Inlet Air Temp
Cylinder Head Temp

What are the other 2? I assume 1 is a Crankshaft Position Sensor.
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Victory
Posted on Saturday, November 28, 2020 - 02:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

On the 2001 X1 I changed TPS around 2010.
Engine Temp Sensor around 2007. Reset TPS and AFV when done.
Air Temp for the hell of it 2015.

The Bosch O2 sensors have been changed for the hell of it a few times. They are cheap and critical. Reset AFV after you do it if you want. 16 bucks.

Timing sensor is original and is getting replaced this year.
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Buellbum
Posted on Saturday, November 28, 2020 - 08:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

do the simple stuff first. see if it smooths out with a steady stream of starting fluid. if so it's not getting enough gas. that means clogged fuel injector.
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Normthenomad
Posted on Sunday, November 29, 2020 - 12:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First Buell I owned pulled a similar trick on me, turned out to be the sidestand safety switch.
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Victory
Posted on Wednesday, December 02, 2020 - 08:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Pump-Strainer-Delphi -FS0057-For-Ford-Jeep-Mazda-Mercury-Nissan-85-98/1 73011882993?epid=79328655&hash=item28484fd3f1:g:~w EAAOSwBfNajvlk Some other motorcycle applications these are causing problems after 25k. Ford Mustang fuel pump filter 1997 http://www.fuel-pumps.net/521.html


(Message edited by victory on December 02, 2020)
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Adrenaline_junkie
Posted on Friday, December 04, 2020 - 10:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This place is so awesome!
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Monday, December 21, 2020 - 08:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

my experience has been injectors. Swap them. I never could get it to run on just the rear cylinder, but sounds like right now you can run it on just the front.
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Buellbum
Posted on Monday, December 21, 2020 - 09:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

have you done a compression test?
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Victory
Posted on Monday, December 21, 2020 - 09:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Our valves can start to stick open esp if our poor PCV system is bringing oil back to the intake. You can see this from the spark plug hole with or without a Bore scope.
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Screamer
Posted on Monday, December 21, 2020 - 09:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tubeframe engines donít actually use a PCV like the XB engines. If the engine has a ring package thatís working well and valve seals that are good condition (and if the engine has no carryover issues) routing the vents to the intake will create no issues.
Some dyno testing we did decades ago showed negligible h.p. differences between routing the vent to the intake vs. to the atmosphere. I canít remember if it was Battle2Win or another magazine of that time, but their dyno testing showed a two HP drop when you rounded the vent to the intake. Whatever magazine it was, I could not confirm if they carefully routed the vent tube or simply stuck it in the carb throat.
One of our race bikes and my personal bike never experienced any plug darkening after routing the vent to the intake.
If a motor has top end issues or oil system breathing issues - you will likely have an HP loss and plug darkening (if not fouling/coking the chamber) if routing the vent to the intake.
What Iím leading to is that I havenít seen valves stick open enough to see through the plug hole - due to carbon buildup. I have seen however, valves that can no longer seat/seal due to excessive carbon buildup.
So Iím suspecting that the running issues described may not be due to crankcase venting mistakes.
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Victory
Posted on Monday, December 21, 2020 - 11:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


Just an FYI. Hammer Performance has a video where they are showing a tear down of an X1 for a big bore. He does spot a hanging valve through the valve hole when trying to find TDC. So if they can call it. Its happening!



(Message edited by victory on December 21, 2020)
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Screamer
Posted on Tuesday, December 22, 2020 - 11:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, a valve can be stuck open, but itís typically due to overheating or insufficient lubrication - or both. Also, a bent valve (either from clipping another valve or hitting the piston - or a foreign object in the chamber), can stick in the guide.

Excessive oil in the intake, whether it be bad guide seals- poor rings, or improper venting could cause sealing problems at the seat, but rarely causes a valve to stick open.


(Message edited by screamer on December 22, 2020)

(Message edited by screamer on December 22, 2020)
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