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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through June 09, 2020 » Jims exhaust stud drill plate « Previous Next »

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Mike_lee
Posted on Saturday, November 23, 2019 - 04:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So, one of the studs (rear upper) was cross-threaded and i could not repair it. Even with the smallest die i could find, i still didnt have the room for a socket. Easy outs, no. Welding a nut, no. I got the stud cut off flush with the head and my last option is to drill it out.
Does anyone have the subject item theyd be willin to lend out for a week? Normally wouldnt ask but, theyre kind of expensive and december is a rough month.
Id pay shipping both ways. Lemme know and thanks in advance.
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Hawgford
Posted on Saturday, November 23, 2019 - 05:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Make sure you use a cobalt bit and work your way up in small increments believe it or not the drill index H F has is not bad.I am hopin to borrow one of these in the future myself to machine a copy for my personal use only.. Will be machining alot of parts/tools for repairs/upgrades once shop is set up.
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Monday, November 25, 2019 - 08:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does the Jim's tool come with different inserts for different size drill bits? or just the one main one? I'd be worried about getting the drill bit crooked if I started with a smaller drill bit, and by the time you got up to the correct size bit, it'd be pointless if the bit didn't line up with the pre-drilled hole.
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Kc_zombie
Posted on Monday, November 25, 2019 - 07:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Why not pull the head and have a machine shop remove it? Most shops around here will do it for $20-$30. If you "bugger" it up first, it will end up costing you more than that to get it out. Head removal is a fairly easy affair.

Good luck!
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M2x2
Posted on Wednesday, November 27, 2019 - 12:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When mine broke, I used the exhaust flanges as a guide. Attach them to the opposite stud and line them up to the broken stud. I used a roll pin to guide and size for the small pilot drill size. Use left hand drills. After the pilot hole the stud came out when drilling with the bigger bit, did not need the easy out. hope this helps
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Livers
Posted on Wednesday, November 27, 2019 - 06:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Great idea, using a roll pin as a guide.
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Mike_lee
Posted on Thursday, November 28, 2019 - 06:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

All good advice. Thank you.
Ill get this out. Its personal now.
Only real issue is the broken easy out.
Although, now would be the time to remove the heads/ cylinders and freshen everything up.
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Mike_lee
Posted on Saturday, November 30, 2019 - 05:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ya, i gave up.
tearin bike down. might as well rebuild it.

i may need a frame if penndot keeps dickin us around.
anyone know of any lyin around? '99 m2.
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Normthenomad
Posted on Monday, January 06, 2020 - 08:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have seen several just lately on ebay with titles. Try pinwall cycles.
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